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2006 S40 Problems

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Old 03-10-2017, 07:15 AM
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Exclamation 2006 S40 Problems

Hello, new to forum, and Volvo's in general. I bought a 2006 Volvo S40 (non-turbo ) a couple weeks ago. This past week I have started having problems.

1st issue: I was stopped at a stop light 4 days ago and the car started to overheat. I turned it off before it got too hot (I think), and looked for a coolant leak. After jacking it up on the side of the road, there was coolant everywhere (looked like it got sprayed everywhere by the fan) and I couldn't tell a specific spot of a leak without taking some plastics off the engine. Instead, I just filled it up, and *poof* no leaks whatsoever. So I thought maybe it only leaked while running. I turned it on and looked for said leak, and still nothing. I had my brother inside the car looking at the temp gauge, and I was looking for anything in the engine. temp never rose after that, and no leaks underneath, so I continued on my way.

After that the car drove perfectly but the heater would not get warm (it felt like just the fan was on) until...

2nd issue: 2 nights ago, I was approaching in the same intersection and the car just died. No lights, temp gauge was fine, no sputtering previously, I just hit the brakes, and it died. So I pushed it to the side of the road (again) and checked all the fluids coolant was good oil was a little low, but not bad. So after a while I filled up the oil, and tried to crank it up, the car would crank, sputter, but wouldn't start. I was thinking the fuel pump was going bad, so I turned the ignition to on a few times without trying to crank, I could hear the fuel pump, but it sounded a bit different than others I have worked on. I checked the fuse to the fuel pump, it looked good, but I replaced it anyway, and tried to start it again. I don't think that had anything to do with it, but the car started, but idled pretty low (maybe 6-700rpm) and rough. after revving it up, the engine sounded fine, but it just idled very low.

Last night, my parents moved it to my brother's house (he is a auto/diesel mechanic and said he would help me work on it). It was pouring coolant, but they could not see from where.

I am thinking it is a blown head gasket, that got blown from when the car overheated, but would much rather see if it is something else before I start tearing into the engine. But on the flip side, I also don't want to just start throwing parts at it and see what fixes it as well...

I read on another forum that it could be the water pump/thermostat, but if that's the case, would that cause a low/rough idle as well?

Also, what does the fuel pump usually sound like? When I was listening for it, it almost sounded like a "thud".

Could something else entirely cause the water pump and fuel pump to go out at the same time, or maybe just some freak coincidence?
Any help/insight would be much appreciated.
 
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Old 03-10-2017, 09:14 AM
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1. no connection of fuel pump to water pump. Fuel pumps should hum.

2. Water pumps typically fail one of two ways - leaking at the bearing seal (check for wetness by pulling the timing belt cover) or by having the impeller seize or spin on its shaft. If you are getting no circulation, the car would start overheating in 5 to 10 minutes tops.

Thermostats are easy to replace - two torx screws hold the cover down. While there you may also want to replace the engine coolant temp sensor and the overflow tank cap. This is a pressurized system and if you overheat you may push coolant out through the overflow tank cap (possibly damaging the cap or tank).

The common checks for a blown head gasket are 1) loss of coolant with no drips - look for white smoke in the exhaust and a sweet smell 2) exhaust gas HCs in the coolant - you can buy a test kit at your local autoparts store 3) test for low compression in adjacent cylinders (turbos should have about 160 PSI compression ).

Considering you are pouring coolant, I'd look for torn hoses, particularly on the back side going to/from the heater. From what you said - overheating at same intersection, suggests you only get like 5 minutes from home and you overheat - which together with no heat would fit a symptom of a failed water pump.
 
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Old 03-10-2017, 10:24 PM
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The upper radiator hose on these cars go after a while. The hose has plastic "T's" formed into them which crack when they get old. It is not easy to see the T's but they are right above the transmission, close to the engine.

This wouldn't cause your other problems though unless perhaps it is leaking on something electrical and shorting.
 
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Old 03-19-2017, 03:19 PM
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Heater not getting warm is a sign of low coolant level.

As mentioned by AutoNaut the radiator hose has several places it can split that is not visible from above. You have to take things apart to see the hose properly. And although I love my 2005 T5 turbo car the upper coolant hose is a bag of snakes. Your hose is much simpler but still has the hard plastic T that can crack.

For the fuel pump: on your 2006 you no longer have a fuel pressure regulator. You have a fuel pressure sensor that regulates pressure from the pump through changes in voltage to the pump. Usually you get some kind of "reduced engine performance" message when the sensor starts acting up.
 
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