Got this 2001 S40 that the PO had overheated multiple times. Air coming out the reservoir tank, dipstick won't stay in, oil coming out the lower CAC pipe. I thought about doing a rebuild, but after adding up the parts (assuming the block is good), I've decided to get another motor. Found one just up the road from me with turbo. '01 S40 that was wrecked about a week ago. Going there Monday to get it. Already tearing mine down and getting ready to pull it. Just need to remove the eng/trans bolts. Before the "new" engine goes in, I'm having the starter & alternator rebuilt. They're not exactly fun to replace so I'm having that done (doesn't cost much either). Also going to replace the oil trap (I've seen what a plugged one does) and not knowing the history of the next engine, I'm going to do the timing belt/tensioner/water pump unless there's receipts showing it was done.
Other than the design of the motor mounts bolted to the cross-member which are blocking my access to the transmission bolts, it looks like a typical engine swap. Oh, and the T-50 torque converter bolts was unexpected... glad my neighbor had that socket.

 

Nice. Might be time for a 'how-to' thread? with pics?

 

How to? Remove hood and take out everything in your way! Just kidding! I ran into a few things and decided to subscribe to Alldata.
Here's a few thoughts so far:
1) Save your money and don't buy Alldata. I think it was written for independent shops who have all the Volvo "special" tools and just need a refresher on what to do.
2) This would be an easier project had the previous owner not had someone do a motor swap (this will be it's third engine) Whoever did it just grabbed whatever bolts they could find. Found a couple wires disconnected, missing bolts and quite a few cross-threaded ones including 2 in the torque converter
3) Instead of removing the 4 bolts to remove the exhaust pipe, I removed the 3 nuts at the top of the elbow just before the turbo. They came off real easy and the pipe slides right out of the way
4) Advance Auto has a buy one / get one free on brake cleaner (makes a great de-greaser) With all the oil sprayed all over the engine bay, I'm going to clean everything once the engine is out, including the cross-members.
5) This will be a great time to flush the heater core and radiator as I'm sure there's a lot of funk in them. I use distilled white vinegar. Plug the lower hose and pour it in. Let it sit for about 15 mins then flush with water. Removes scale and all sorts of crap.

Guess I could take some pics...

 

Picked up my "new" engine. Looks like it was well maintained. Oil trap ports were about 1/4 plugged. Going to order new one along with hoses. Too cold and windy to do anything today. Hoping I can get this done soon as I have a 30 day warranty on the engine. Good thing I had the starter looked over, the guy said the bushings were shot. He's waiting for the parts to fix it. The alternator is next.

 

Great pictures, thank you.

 

Shade tree mechanic! Got the engine out today. Not a whole lot of room in there but when I put the next one in, I'm going to remove the oil cooler hoses. (they were against the frame rail.) That should give me the extra 1/4" I would like to have. Took the timing cover off the motor and everything was soaked in oil. Looked like it was dripping off the cam seals, Also oil came out of the turbo. Glad I'm doing this. The old engine is off to the recyclers... I hear the price of aluminum is good.

 

Nice work there thanks for the pics too!

 

Got the oil trap installed along with new hoses. (Thanks to whoever posted the info about checking the nipple on the intake. It was plugged. Never would have thought to check that.) Had to buy a re-man alternator. The guy said he couldn't get the parts to rebuild it. He's also having a difficult time getting the parts to fix the starter. I may just go to pull-a-part and get one. In the meantime, I've cleaned the engine bay, flushed the radiator and heater core and I'm ready to drop the new engine in. Glad I flushed the radiator. When I opened the drain plug, nothing came out. Had to use a small screwdriver to unplug it. Got it flowing freely now. Would hate to go thru all this and watch it overheat!

 

Got the motor put in tonight. What a pain trying to get it in without damaging the flex plate but we did it! Had to remove the top transmission mount thru bolt so we could push it back and get the shaft on the torque converter to clear the plate. So tomorrow I'll start putting everything back together.
While I had time this morning, I decided to tear down the old motor. Cams were scratched (sorry for the blurry pic). Cylinder #2 had a scratch in the lining and cylinder #4 felt like it was sandpaper. Also you can see that the cabin filter wasn't a priority.

 

It's alive!!! Finally got it running! Sounds pretty good too. No coolant or oil leaking but it is idling high (1200 rpm) so I'll start looking over the vacuum lines. I'm sure somewhere in that mess I overlooked one. Not a bad project really although I was tempted to remove the intake so it would be easier to put in the torque converter bolts and starter. I'm ready for the next project... got my eyes on another S40 with a busted timing belt.

 

Didn't get too far down the road and found out the right rear wheel bearing is shot! Ordered a new one so that's next weekend's project. Also kept blowing the 15amp A/C fuse... found the condenser fan to be bad. Thought I'd post of a couple pics of the car & engine. I took off the hood insulation as it's oil soaked from the previous engine. Not having any luck finding a new one. Volvo parts webstore has them but I refuse to pay $200 for a piece of insulation. Maybe I'll just buy one of the "universal" ones and cut it to fit.

 

Doesn't some places like Jegs or Summitt sell a universal cut-to-fit sound deadening material? I don't know if it works under hood with high heat though. I've used cut-to-fit heat insulation under the hood before but it probably does not offer much sound proofing.

 

My lucky day! Pull-A-Part just got in a 2000 S40 so I was able to take the insulation from it .... and the passenger headlight assembly. Going back to get some more parts I don't need but would like to have for spares.
(Was curious why it was junked so I pulled back the timing cover and didn't see a belt but noticed the exhaust cam pulley just flopped around when I grabbed it. Looked like it snapped off.)

 

Disco2 I just bought a 01 S40 w/ 1.9T motor. guy who sold it to me said only blown Head gasket. Now I find out it also had bad rings via a wet compression test. Numbers when wet were between 165 PSI and 180 PSI. You think I should remove engine and change out rings or should I do it with engine still in there? If you suggest I remove engine. Got any pointers on how I should go about that, In what order should I remove items from the hood? This looks like a very unique set up in comparison to what I have done in the past. Any and all advice from some one that knows what they are doing is highly appreciated.

 

"Numbers when wet were between 165 PSI and 180 PSI"

This is bad? Sounds mighty fine to me. And within 10% of each other? How about a leak down test?

 

But when dry the numbers were 120 25 100 110 ( This was 2 weeks ago, don't hold me to those numbers, but one cylinder was definitely that much off). Guy who sold it to me also admitted to coolant, oil mix occurring and that he changed oil ASAP ( I guess coolant will corrode stuff?). What will leak-down test indicate that will change the "necessary game plan"?

 

Coolant in the oil will kill stuff. I found this the hard way.

Leak down test just gives you a better picture of your engines condition. And changing the oil does not fix it, just covers it up for a little while. If it were me the engine would be coming out for at least a mild freshening.

This is from my hobby car's engine. A leaking intake manifold gasket let coolant into the oil and wiped my cam lobes.

 

I mean, I know that my problem isn't escaping compression from the valves or through a hole in the block or head, so what will leakdown tell me other than I maybe have a busted head gasket and certainly leaking rings. What does " refreshening" entail? So, how do you suggest I make some space to remove the engine, and got any other pointers?

 

For me a freshening is new bearings. The rings are a bit more involved but still easy enough once the engine is out, especially if you already have the head off to replace the head gasket.

Read this from Mobil on a leakdown test. https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-...-leakdown-test

As far as removing the engine I'm no help as I've never pulled one from this model. When I fixed the valves on my 2001 I removed the head with the block still in the car. Maybe it is simply a head gasket and you won't need to pull the engine.

 

Can you post a pic of this with the nipple circled?

BTW, great pics you have been posting, they load quickly....thanks for optimizing!