The purpose of this thread is to give solutions and answers to a variety of questions that come up a lot. (All credit of how-to's to the original posters)

Troubleshooting:

My car takes cranks for a long time before starting. What should I do?
-There are several things that could be the root cause of this, but most often the culprit is the fuel pressure regulator. There is a how-to for replacement here: http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.p...t=0#msg_157104

MODERATOR'S NOTE: S40CONCEPTS forum is closed, new forum can be found at http://v70r.com/forums/

This is one of the most commonly reported issues with early S/V40's. Use the search function to search for threads on the topic before posting a new one.
-From Boris: "A Volvo tech told me the way to diagnose that the FPR is the problem is simple: with the car switched off pull the S-shaped line off the regulator. If a drop of fuel comes out where the line was connected then it needs replacing. When the FPR fails it's sending too much fuel."

My car idles low, high, or not at all. What should I do?
-First thing to do would be to clean the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. There is a how to here: http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.p...b1bce0b4860f8f
While you're at it, you can clean the mass airflow sensor (MAF.) There is a how to here: http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.p...b1bce0b4860f8f
Both sensors are very easy to clean and are a great first step towards diagnosis.


The "up arrow" is flashing on my dash board. What does that mean?
-The "up arrow" is a sign of transmission problems. It is best to have this checked out as soon as possible.


My dealer pulled a P0128 error code. What is this?
-This is the infamous "Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)" code. The solution involves replacing the thermostat with a brand new OEM one. If the code recurrs you may have to replace the coolant temperature sensor, but try the thermostat first. This code is frequently recurring with the early S/V40's. Many owners have sadly just had to learn to live with it.


My check engine light (CEL) flashes under wide open throttle (WOT.) What does that mean?
-The CEL flashing under WOT generally means misfire which can be caused by a variety of things. This is mainly cured by replaced the spark plugs, coil packs, and/or spark plug wires.


Can I reset my own check engine light without a scanner?
-The short answer is no. Personally I have never been able to turn mine off by unhooking the battery. Some people swear by it, but I've had no luck. Some codes, if they do not occur for a certain number of starts, turn off the CEL on their own.


My dealer pulled the code P0015. What does this mean?
-This code means Camshaft Position Actuator B - Bank 1 Timing Over-Retarded. Possible causes of this include: Low oil pressure in the engine, blocked oil ducts in the VVT control valve, and/or defective VVT control valve.


My battery died/ I replaced it and now my radio doesn't work. I miss my music!
-Look through the papers you recieved when you bought the car. There is a 4 digit code you have to punch in to reactivate the radio after battery replacement. If you cannot find the code, call your dealer. They will ask you questions and hopefully give you the code. This is a theft control measure for your own good.


My key won't come out of the ignition!
-Check the button on the back of your shifter. Make sure it is not stuck in. If the shifter button is sticky, use a squirt of WD-40 inside the assembly to unstick it. Oftentimes the shifter button is cracked and needs replacement.


My engine fan continues running even after the car is turned off. What do I do?
-This is often a sign of mass airflow sensor problems (MAF.) A how-to for cleaning is here: http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.p...b1bce0b4860f8f


My steering wheels vibrates a lot while at stoplights. What is the problem?
-A certain amount of vibration is normal, but excessive vibration could be caused by engine mounts. Particularly the passenger side engine mount has been known to go bad. Replacement at the dealer/ shop is usually not too expensive and you will feel like you have a whole new car!


My blower motor runs on high/ not at all. I'm freezing over here!
-Another very common problem. There is a fix that you can try here: http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.p...b1bce0b4860f8f


My brakes don't work when I first start the car. It's scary!
-There is a brake pump recall on early S40's where the dealer relocates and replaces the brake pump thereby curing the problem.


There is an electronic noise by the drivers side wheel when I first start the car. What is it?
-This is simply the brake pump priming itself, getting ready for service. It is 100% normal.

 

(One again, all credit for how-to's to the original poster.)

I want a cold air intake for my Volvo. Where can I find one?
-Eurosportuning (http://www.eurosporttuning.com/) carries a very good cone filter/ heatshield combination that is simply to install and looks great in the engine bay. Plus it adds a great sound. I use it!


I would like some information on upgrading turbo's. Where can I find that?
-The most popular upgrade would be to upgrade your S/V40's 12T to a 14T. It is a direct bolt on replacement. An ECU tune is recommended. A how-to can be found here: http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.p...b1bce0b4860f8f


I would like a "cat-back" exhaust system for my S/V40. Where can I buy one?
-Unfortunately there are few to no prefabbed kits available. Usually the best thing to do is to have a shop custom bend you a system. You want a 2.5" system from the downpipe to the rear of the car. You may have problems finding a shop to do this because it involves removing your second catalytic converter. Remember most shops will do anything if you pay in cash, no receipt.


Won't I get a check engine light after removing a catalytic converter?
-You WILL NOT get a CEL if you remove the second catalytic converter. You WILL get a CEL if you remove the first catalytic converter on the downpipe from the turbo. There are cheaters available on ebay. I cannot vouch for their success.


I would like a new header. Where can I buy one?
-You can't. There are no options other than completely custom work.


Where should I get my ECU tuned?
-There are a few options including: Rica tuning, IPD, and SpeedtuningUSA. I would not recommend SpeedtuningUSA. I have seen too many posts about failed tunes and busted ECU's. Contact each company and make your own decision. Use the search function for more information.


What is your opinion on the ebay tuner chips?
-DON'T BUY THEM. (Give your money to me instead )


Which engine is stronger, phase one or phase two?
-It has been determined that phase one engines are stronger and able to handle more horsepower. The phase one pistons are larger and thicker/meatier. There is a whole thread about this issue here: http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.p...b1bce0b4860f8f

 

(Again all credit for how-to's to the original poster)

What is my bolt pattern?
-4 x 114.3

I want custom rims on my S40. How big of wheels can I run?
-The most popular size is 17x7 with a tire size of 215-40R-17. You will have very little to no rubbing issues. Bigger sizes have also been run before with little issue. Make sure you get hub-centric rings with your wheels! This is KEY!


What offset should I be looking at?
-First off a diagram:
Now then a +40 or +38 offset will sit flush and a +45 will push the wheels in. Make your own decision about how you want it to look.


Summer or All-Season tires?
-The eternal debate! I chose to go with all-season Nitto NeoGen's on my Konig's simply because of the added security in the rain. Ultimately it is your decision to make.


Where can I buy a set of those pimp eyebrows?
-Right here: http://www.eurosporttuning.ca/


I want to put a spoiler on the trunk lid. How do I choose which one?
-To me, anything but OEM is rice, but it is your decision.


Where can I pick up a body kit for my phase one or phase two S/V40?
-Unfortunately there are few to no companies interested in kits for our cars. Carlos over at s40concepts has custom made body kits before, but be ready to shell out a lot of money. Rarely, one of the kits comes up for sale in the classifieds section. Just keep an eye out for them.


I want to lower my car. How do I go about doing that?
-The ultimate choice is KW coilovers. Carlos at s40concepts sells them at competitive prices. Springs are also an option, but I wont go into that.


Where can I get those fake Ferrari badges with the moose on them?
-First off, that is called the "raging/prancing moose." It is a well known symbol in Volvo racing. They can be purchased in a variety of colors, here: http://www.davebarton.com/VolvoPrancingMoose.html


I'm tired of this ugly chrome grille, where can I get a different style?
-Good news! There is another option! The newer "eggcrate" grille from a 2002-2004 WILL fit with no modification.
Pic of grille on my car:

 

What brand of car wax do you recommend?
-I have used many different types of wax and it seems to me that none last quite as long or look as good as Meguire's NXT liquid wax.


What is the difference between a random orbital and high speed buffer?
-A monkey could use a random orbital buffer and not hurt the paint whereas a high speed buffer is VERY dangerous if not in the hands of a skilled detailer.


How come I never see any early S40 R's out there.
-Because they don't exist. (I have the only one)


Can I get Volvo R Pegasus rims on my early S40?
-The short answer is no. The Pegasus wheels are for 5 lug fitments whereas the early s40's are 4 lug. Now theoretically you could do a very complex maneuver and swap parts around and THEN fit Pegasus wheels, but it would not be worth your money. If you want Peg's just buy an R model.

Are there any big brake upgrades for my S/V40?
-Once again, Carlos over at s40concepts has made a version for our cars. Linky: http://www.s40concepts.net/bbk.html
Be prepared to spend $$$$!

 

Feedback anyone?


I'll keep adding to this thread as I think of things.

Please let me know if you notice errors. I do make mistakes. Not often, but it does happen.

 

Good post!!!!

 

Thanks! That's a couple hours worth of work on and off. I only wish I could go back and make the thread title all caps and the actual questions underlined.

Oh well, it gets the point across!

 

Nice post! Should help your fellow S40 drivers.....I'm sure that will answer a lot of stuff for newbies! I like the offset part, since I know a lot of people usually want different rims and often enough you see people asking that question but never the answer! 2 points for u...............

 

Hey Lyonsroar, great post. This FAQ is the reason I registered! three of the problems I'm encountering currently are #1, #2, and #5 on your list

What I hope to find is information re: crossover parts from other manufacturers that would be cheaper. For example, I've seen that many models of S40 (all but mine it seems) share the Ford Focus ball joint. I can't afford to be a tuner, I just need to be budget-conscious in keeping my car running!

Thanks for the great FAQ!

 

No problem. This is why I made it!
Please stick around and post. You never know, we might turn you into a tuner yet!

 

It would be nice to see some common problems and weak points to check out before buying a used one. Just things an owner would know and someone would like to be informed of before looking at a used one.

Great list other than that though, thanks.

 

Those pretty much are the weak points. Engine mounts, thermostat and ECT sensor, brakes wear quickly, camshaft position sensor, and the fuel pressure regulator are all VERY common problems.

 

Great stuff.... I just bought an incredible 2000 s40 with 47k which has been painstakingly taken care of. I saw the frequently asked questions and the one about the brake primer and the faint vibrating sound when the car is cold and first started. Can you explain that a little? Thanks!!

 

When you turn the key to position II (ie accessory) you will hear a noise in the drivers side wheels well and maybe feel a vibration, this is only the brake pump priming and is 100% normal. However, if you have no brakes right at startup there is a recall about that and the dealer will take care of it for free.

 

Thanks for the quick response. Is the faint intermittent buzzing sound after the car is in gear and for about 30 to 60 seconds? The sound is coming from that same location. I have brakes and everything runs and sounds fine. It seems to only be when the car is cold. It puts me in mind of a delayed wiper motor sound. I just don't want to miss a warning or a possible problem. The gentleman that had the car documented everything that was done to the car from 10/99 to 12/09 and nothing shows up about this warning. Thanks again for the site and your time.

 

It's normal for the brake pump to work a little while into driving.
As long as you have braking power I wouldn't worry about it.

 

My 2001 V40 blows oil out the exhaust when the turbo kicks in , And it leaks up front ...I heard the turbo seals might be the problem .
How to fix ? I work on a lot of stuff so not afraid to tear a car apart , !!
TIA

 

I would guess the turbo is shot.

 

Listen to tech. He knows what he's talking about. While you're at it, replace with a 14T FTW.

 

Ok , will look at it , Thankyou for the info ...
The car was doing this a long time and steadily getting worse ...
It was doing this at 30k when I bought it used , now has 113k on it ...
An rebuild units available or suggestion on a place to buy a replacment ?
Apppreciate the help !!