Good morning-
I am new here and seeking advice, we recently purchased an 04 S40 for my wife (she picked it). I typically prefer old cars (my daily driver is a '59), this is the newest one I have ever owned, also the first front wheel drive, also the first turbo, also the first VVT, etc . . . Ive done plenty of car repairs and restorations but would like some advice to save time and effort so I am hoping you can help me.


When the car was running there is a shudder when downshifting and accelerating. The check engine light has come on with codes representing misfire on cylinder number 3 and engine timing retarded (forget the exact numbers). The dealer replaced the thermostat before we bought the car and we made it home without much incident. The next day the temperature started to climb and I found out there was air in the cooling system that had not been bled out. Now the car won't start. She will sputter but not start. When I leave the key on I can hear a motor running but have not been able to locate yet it. It sounds like it is coming from the passenger side front of the engine. Maybe a fuel pump although I am guessing the fuel pump is in the tank? The brakes are soft poor when you start driving. The compression reads 100-100-90-100, I do not know what it should read. I think it might be cheaper to just get a new used engine!


I am really trying to avoid spending hundreds on parts taking the trial and error method. The dealership has offered to pay for parts from their junk yard only they are 100 miles away.

 

Oh I forgot to mention the oil light flickered on the other day, we immediately pulled over and checked the oil, nice and golden and plenty in there.


Would a retarded cam prevent the car from starting?

 

Haven't been able to start yet. I checked the pressure as best I could, the o-ring was lost from the tire gauge and I can't drive to the store to get another. Pressing in the scrader valve a trickle of fuel comes out, after cranking there is more pressure although I would estimate no more than 5 psi, a definite problem. Any advice on helping figure out if this problem is the fuel pump or pressure regulator?

 

First thing you need to do is buy an OBD2 code reader and use it. When you ask for help without posting codes it shows you're not serious.

 

Definitely throw a fuel pressure tester on the shrader valve. It sounds like a failed fuel pump because even with a bad FPR the car will eventually build enough pressure to start. (long cranking times is the bad FPR symptom) The pressure tester will tell the tale. You did check the fuse first?

Replacement is easy but not cheap. Remove the back seats by flipping them forward and unbolting the hinges. Pull carpet forward to expose the top of the fuel pump. Unclip electrical connector. Unclip fuel feed and fuel return lines (color coded). Use a wooden stake or similar with a hammer to unscrew the plastic ring holding pump to tank. The pump then lifts out while you wiggle it around to clear the float.

The soft brakes are due to low vacuum on the turbo engine. You have an electric vacuum assist pump which is probably what you hear running with the key on. It should run just a few seconds on initial startup then as needed. If you have a vacuum leak then it's sucking wind.......

 

Also check the brake hoses on the front. My 2001 has broken both of them on different occasions. It's your normal rubber hose brake lines that get old after years of use.

 

Misfire could be a bad coil pack (assuming that the plugs are good). They eventuallly develop tiny cracks and need to be replaced.

If you have a "timing retarded" message could be vvt or a timing belt change that wasn't done exactly right (i.e. you may be a tooth off on the timing). Just out of curiosity, I would take a look under the timing cover for signs of oil on the belt which would suggest a bad vvt. if you want to try something easy first, take the vvt solenoid off, clean it, and replace the gasket with an updated one that has a screen. Low likelihood of success though...

 

Migbro in response, I checked the codes and that's how I knew it was a misfire on cyl 3 and a timing retarded I just didn't right down the numbers. As far as buying a code reader I tried a cheap one but the store was out of stock. I live about a mile from advance auto and used to work there so I typically use their reader whenever I need to. However, not being able to start the car makes things more difficult especially since I have My car torn apart and am repainting it leaving us with no transportation at all right now, I figured a 2004 might be more reliable than a 1959. I believe the numbers were 0015 and 0303? the misfire


From the sound of things I need a fuel pump, I did not check the fuse and will check that as soon as I can but considering there is more pressure after cranking than before the fuel pump seems to be getting power otherwise there would be no increase in pressure at all.
No signs of oil on the belt, I checked that before posting, also it does look like the belt was changed and the vvt solenoid replace solving "those" problems but im not sure.


As far as the plugs they all look good with no differences between them.


Where is the vacuum assist pump located? I only ask to save myself time tracing lines. If the hose were broken then wouldn't the brakes be soft all the time and there be a sign of lost fluid?

 

As a thought on the brakes (not a real concern right now) I would doubt that it is a vacuum problem or loss of fluid. If it was vacuum then they should be hard to press but have pedal pressure. If it was loss of fluid then the pedal would get worse as you drive. I think there might be air in the lines?

 

The misfire to me still points to one of your coil packs being bad.

The retarted timing (I love that message) could be (but not likely) a bad cam sensor (a relatively cheap part) that simply screws into the back-side of the exhaust cam (on the air-box side). I'd be inclined (if possible) to speak to the previous owner first though. What I would ask is whether the P0015 code appeared soon after the belt was changed. If it did appear then, it would point to a botched timing belt change. If that is the case, no new parts required (good news) BUT same amount of labour to get back in there and get it right. If, for instance, the job was attempted without locking the rear of the cams, you could end up with an ever so slight timing issue that would trigger the P0015 code. It really doesn't take much. The good news is that you could probably keep driving that way without any major problems but you'd suffer on gas consumption plus a potential bumpy idle - not to mention the damned CEL not going off which could be an issue at the next state inspection.

I do not think the P0015 code in itself would prevent the car from starting given that it started AND ran previously without major issue. You could run a compression test (another low cost check) to confirm that valves are all good. This would allow you to rest easy in that the engine guts are still ok.

Keep us posted.

 

If $225 is a cheap part I would hate to see an expensive one. Unfortunatly I cant talk to the previous owner as it came from a dealership. The compression was already checked 100-100-90-100 from the timing belt end (not sure which one is number one). I did not hold the throttle open so I should check it again. Fuel mileage returning home 60-65 mph we averaged about 35.

 

If you can live with the CEL light on, then I'd suggest leaving the vvt well alone until a point at which it starts to leak (it may not). BUUUUT I would address the misfire - the dealer may be able to get you a coil pack from the junkyard. Fitting it is easy stuff. The coil packs do commonly go and apparently the root cause are hairline cracks in the housing. If you can find them and properly seal them you may be ok. I came across one posting where someone did just that by id'ing the hairline cracks, making them bigger (and "v" shaped) so that he could then fill with JBweld or something. Others have simply wrapped some electric tape around them as a means of testing to see if the code goes away.

 

If you are serious about keeping the car I would recommend getting the DiCE / VIDA dedicated Volvo OBDII reader. VIDA is Volvo's TOTAL repair database, and the DiCE is the interface that connects that database to your car's multiple microprocessors. Chinese clones are available for ~$120 and six day delivery from China (!!!!). There are some things you still will have to go to a dealer for, however.

VIDA has very specific install requirements, but you can use a VMware image on almost any computer. Use Google search to find out more.

I just made (am making?) the transition from steam-gauge cars to digital everything, so I sort of feel your pain.

 

Got home late tonight, picked up a fuel pump, fuel pump pressure regulator, VVT solenoid, cam position sensor, ignition wires, and coil packs. Before it got dark I was able replace the solenoid and fuel pump, all parts from a pick and pull paid for by the dealer. I have noticeably higher pressure however it was not enough to start. As far as steam gauge cars I grew up wrenching on cars older than everyone here (pre WWI)

 

I don't believe in stealing intellectual property so I'll stick to my OBD2 reader.

 

You're totally missing the point. It doesn't matter what you thought the codes meant. If you post the codes someone who knows these cars might just tell you what they actually mean.

Amazon will ship you an for less than $20 delivered. It amazes me that people balk at spending 20 bucks but will dive into random part swapping.

 

Codes Checked include
P0303 misfire number 3
P0015 Variable Valve Timing Control Valve
P0304 Misfire number 4
P0015 Variable Valve Timing Control Valve
P0303 Misfire number 3
P0304 Misfire number 4
P0013 Intake Camshaft Position 'B' Actuator Circuit Open Bank 1



I have spent a fair bit of time reading this forum and have read about the problems with sludge, VVT Solenoid, Fuel Pressure regulator, Coils, and cam positioning sensor and will be replacing all of these along with a new set of plugs with parts I pulled from the yard. Once she is running I plan on using seafoam to clean the engine. The 0013, and 0304 are new the others I knew about and Had been checked with a code reader as mentioned.

 

I have that exact reader, paid $18 free shipping. Works great on my Volvo and clears the codes no problem, it lives in my glove compartment. I laugh eveytime I see almost the exact same reader on sale at auto parts stores for $70 and up!

 

The car is started, heres what has transpired.
New spark plugs were installed (all replacements done by myself), before replacing the plugs compression was checked (4-6 revolutions of cranking with the throttle floored for each cylinder). If number 1 is on the end with the timing/serpentine the compression has read 170-165-170-130. After adding a little trans oil into each cylinders the readings were 230-235-230-235. Based on this I would say the rings are worn particularly on number 4. The wires and coils that I had removed from the wrecked Volvo were installed with the codes cleared. The computer has been reset. The fuel pump and pressure regulator as well. All codes were cleared and we drove it to get lunch, check engine light is back on. Now I can at least drive and diagnose the check engine light which should be solved by the VVT solenoid and Cam position sensor that I have not installed yet.


On a side note I do not have the code for the stereo and it needs to be entered. I called a Volvo dealership and they said they could not look it up by vin number and the car needed to be brought in so the stereo could be removed and programed????

 

OK, I'm no expert but looking at those codes I think there's a chance that the only problem your car has is a faulty camshaft position sensor. Or it may be your CVVT solenoid, which you can test with an Ohm-meter.

There's a Volvo tech here that really know his stuff, ES6T. If you're lucky he'll chime in with the answer.