Newbie here with a question
#41
07-11-2014, 01:01 PM
No problem, just Private Message me your address.
This may be an issue... I would send you the whole gear, but due to the weight it might be pricey to ship. With the entire gear you would also have the inside diameter of the hole that the plunger goes in. Tell you what, USPS has a small flat rate box that ships for $5.80... if the gear will fit in one of those (the box is 1 5/8" tall, so it should) I'll just send you the whole thing. And no need to return anything to me, I have no need for it, and I was going to pitch it the next time I cleaned off my work bench anyway
This may be an issue... I would send you the whole gear, but due to the weight it might be pricey to ship. With the entire gear you would also have the inside diameter of the hole that the plunger goes in. Tell you what, USPS has a small flat rate box that ships for $5.80... if the gear will fit in one of those (the box is 1 5/8" tall, so it should) I'll just send you the whole thing. And no need to return anything to me, I have no need for it, and I was going to pitch it the next time I cleaned off my work bench anyway
Sending you a PM with my email address.
#42
07-11-2014, 10:45 PM
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#43
07-11-2014, 11:55 PM
#45
07-12-2014, 08:50 PM
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#46
07-12-2014, 08:50 PM
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#47
07-15-2014, 10:10 PM
OK folks, I received Livens' dead VVT pulley this morning. I've made the measurements, crunched the numbers and here's the info.
The o-ring on the small piston is a metric 8.5 mm x 2 mm. That's 8.5 mm ID and 2 mm width (diameter of the cross-section).
I was able to determine the correct o-ring size by (1) measuring the OD of the piston groove (where the o-ring sits) and, (2) calculating the cross-sectional area of the old, compressed o-ring and matching it to the cross-sectional area of the metric 2 mm o-ring.
Piston groove OD = 8.96 mm, which gives a 5.4% stretch to the 8.5 mm o-ring when installed, more or less exactly what it should be.
Calculated cross-sectional area of the old, compressed o-ring was 3.153 sq. mm, compared to 3.142 sq. mm for the new o-ring.
The original o-ring was very likely Buna-N and failed in a very typical way for a nitrile o-ring, hardening and becoming brittle as a result of exposure to high temperatures and possibly also to sulphur compounds in the engine oil. The old o-ring came off the piston in five pieces.
I suggest a Viton o-ring as a replacement. You can buy the correct size from oringsUSA for $2.00 plus shipping.
If I were doing this repair I would also lightly polish the VVT pulley bore (that the piston installs in) to remove varnish with .
One last thing. Those weird slotted bolt heads on the VVT pulley - a 11/32" 6 point socket fits them quite well.
The o-ring on the small piston is a metric 8.5 mm x 2 mm. That's 8.5 mm ID and 2 mm width (diameter of the cross-section).
I was able to determine the correct o-ring size by (1) measuring the OD of the piston groove (where the o-ring sits) and, (2) calculating the cross-sectional area of the old, compressed o-ring and matching it to the cross-sectional area of the metric 2 mm o-ring.
Piston groove OD = 8.96 mm, which gives a 5.4% stretch to the 8.5 mm o-ring when installed, more or less exactly what it should be.
Calculated cross-sectional area of the old, compressed o-ring was 3.153 sq. mm, compared to 3.142 sq. mm for the new o-ring.
The original o-ring was very likely Buna-N and failed in a very typical way for a nitrile o-ring, hardening and becoming brittle as a result of exposure to high temperatures and possibly also to sulphur compounds in the engine oil. The old o-ring came off the piston in five pieces.
I suggest a Viton o-ring as a replacement. You can buy the correct size from oringsUSA for $2.00 plus shipping.
If I were doing this repair I would also lightly polish the VVT pulley bore (that the piston installs in) to remove varnish with .
One last thing. Those weird slotted bolt heads on the VVT pulley - a 11/32" 6 point socket fits them quite well.
Last edited by migbro; 07-15-2014 at 10:19 PM.
#48
07-16-2014, 12:00 PM
OK folks, I received Livens' dead VVT pulley this morning. I've made the measurements, crunched the numbers and here's the info.
The o-ring on the small piston is a metric 8.5 mm x 2 mm. That's 8.5 mm ID and 2 mm width (diameter of the cross-section).
I was able to determine the correct o-ring size by (1) measuring the OD of the piston groove (where the o-ring sits) and, (2) calculating the cross-sectional area of the old, compressed o-ring and matching it to the cross-sectional area of the metric 2 mm o-ring.
Piston groove OD = 8.96 mm, which gives a 5.4% stretch to the 8.5 mm o-ring when installed, more or less exactly what it should be.
Calculated cross-sectional area of the old, compressed o-ring was 3.153 sq. mm, compared to 3.142 sq. mm for the new o-ring.
The original o-ring was very likely Buna-N and failed in a very typical way for a nitrile o-ring, hardening and becoming brittle as a result of exposure to high temperatures and possibly also to sulphur compounds in the engine oil. The old o-ring came off the piston in five pieces.
I suggest a Viton o-ring as a replacement. You can buy the correct size from oringsUSA for $2.00 plus shipping.
If I were doing this repair I would also lightly polish the VVT pulley bore (that the piston installs in) to remove varnish with a Dremel buffing tool.
One last thing. Those weird slotted bolt heads on the VVT pulley - a 11/32" 6 point socket fits them quite well.
The o-ring on the small piston is a metric 8.5 mm x 2 mm. That's 8.5 mm ID and 2 mm width (diameter of the cross-section).
I was able to determine the correct o-ring size by (1) measuring the OD of the piston groove (where the o-ring sits) and, (2) calculating the cross-sectional area of the old, compressed o-ring and matching it to the cross-sectional area of the metric 2 mm o-ring.
Piston groove OD = 8.96 mm, which gives a 5.4% stretch to the 8.5 mm o-ring when installed, more or less exactly what it should be.
Calculated cross-sectional area of the old, compressed o-ring was 3.153 sq. mm, compared to 3.142 sq. mm for the new o-ring.
The original o-ring was very likely Buna-N and failed in a very typical way for a nitrile o-ring, hardening and becoming brittle as a result of exposure to high temperatures and possibly also to sulphur compounds in the engine oil. The old o-ring came off the piston in five pieces.
I suggest a Viton o-ring as a replacement. You can buy the correct size from oringsUSA for $2.00 plus shipping.
If I were doing this repair I would also lightly polish the VVT pulley bore (that the piston installs in) to remove varnish with a Dremel buffing tool.
One last thing. Those weird slotted bolt heads on the VVT pulley - a 11/32" 6 point socket fits them quite well.
And if my Volvo makes it to 240,000 miles, and the VVT starts leaking again, I will definatly try it
#49
07-16-2014, 04:28 PM
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK folks, I received Livens' dead VVT pulley this morning. I've made the measurements, crunched the numbers and here's the info.
The o-ring on the small piston is a metric 8.5 mm x 2 mm. That's 8.5 mm ID and 2 mm width (diameter of the cross-section).
I was able to determine the correct o-ring size by (1) measuring the OD of the piston groove (where the o-ring sits) and, (2) calculating the cross-sectional area of the old, compressed o-ring and matching it to the cross-sectional area of the metric 2 mm o-ring.
Piston groove OD = 8.96 mm, which gives a 5.4% stretch to the 8.5 mm o-ring when installed, more or less exactly what it should be.
Calculated cross-sectional area of the old, compressed o-ring was 3.153 sq. mm, compared to 3.142 sq. mm for the new o-ring.
The original o-ring was very likely Buna-N and failed in a very typical way for a nitrile o-ring, hardening and becoming brittle as a result of exposure to high temperatures and possibly also to sulphur compounds in the engine oil. The old o-ring came off the piston in five pieces.
I suggest a Viton o-ring as a replacement. You can buy the correct size from oringsUSA for $2.00 plus shipping.
If I were doing this repair I would also lightly polish the VVT pulley bore (that the piston installs in) to remove varnish with a Dremel buffing tool.
One last thing. Those weird slotted bolt heads on the VVT pulley - a 11/32" 6 point socket fits them quite well.
The o-ring on the small piston is a metric 8.5 mm x 2 mm. That's 8.5 mm ID and 2 mm width (diameter of the cross-section).
I was able to determine the correct o-ring size by (1) measuring the OD of the piston groove (where the o-ring sits) and, (2) calculating the cross-sectional area of the old, compressed o-ring and matching it to the cross-sectional area of the metric 2 mm o-ring.
Piston groove OD = 8.96 mm, which gives a 5.4% stretch to the 8.5 mm o-ring when installed, more or less exactly what it should be.
Calculated cross-sectional area of the old, compressed o-ring was 3.153 sq. mm, compared to 3.142 sq. mm for the new o-ring.
The original o-ring was very likely Buna-N and failed in a very typical way for a nitrile o-ring, hardening and becoming brittle as a result of exposure to high temperatures and possibly also to sulphur compounds in the engine oil. The old o-ring came off the piston in five pieces.
I suggest a Viton o-ring as a replacement. You can buy the correct size from oringsUSA for $2.00 plus shipping.
If I were doing this repair I would also lightly polish the VVT pulley bore (that the piston installs in) to remove varnish with a Dremel buffing tool.
One last thing. Those weird slotted bolt heads on the VVT pulley - a 11/32" 6 point socket fits them quite well.
#50
07-16-2014, 04:54 PM
Let us know how it works out. You don't actually have to take the VVT pulley off the car, just remove the outer toothed ring and leave the pulley in place on the end of the camshaft. And don't forget there's a spring under the piston so don't lose that.
Last edited by migbro; 07-16-2014 at 04:58 PM.
#51
07-16-2014, 05:07 PM
Last edited by migbro; 07-16-2014 at 05:09 PM.
#52
07-17-2014, 03:23 PM
Off topic, but there is no Space Shuttle any more, NASA's mission is now to make Muslims feel better about their scientific achievements and NASA itself is mainly an employment program, no results required, a bit like the Post Office. If NASA actually wants to get into orbit it has to hitch a ride with the Russians.
Keep your eyes on SpaceX. They and others like them will become NASA's goto for getting people into space. SpaceX is already running many satalites up, and I think made a few deliveries to the ISS. I think using a private company for launches is a much better way. Look at how much the Shuttle program cost to keep running, and it didn't make any money back. SpaceX is a money maker, good for the economy.
Now NASA can focus on creating the missons and let someone else worry about getting it out of Earth's gravity well.
Have you been following the Curiosity misson on Mars! That whole thing has amazed me from start to finish. There is a video of the actual touchdown from a camera on the bottom of the rover. High Def and it even has sound! Vid start from the time the heat shield is released all the way to the landing on Mars, unreal. And the next mission's rover will be able to dig down into the ground (so I've heard), I can't wait!
#53
07-17-2014, 05:06 PM
lol. Yeah. Maybe you're too young to see the tragedy in NASA's evolution from the incredibly capable and ballsy organization that put Neil Armstrong on the moon to just another pathetically useless government department.
#54
07-22-2014, 10:57 PM
OK, Mr. Carter, this may help you a lot. After looking at the VVT pulley a little more it became clear that the piston with the o-ring doesn't actually do anything. It does not move in the bore, all it does is close the hole it sits in.
Under the piston with the o-ring is a spring and under the spring is the component that moves.
So here's the ultimate low buck ghetto fix for a leaking VVT pulley. I'm confident this fix will work well. I'd certainly do it on my car. In fact I probably will as a preventive measure.
1) Clean the visible part of the piston with spray carb cleaner. Do this several times so the metal is absolutely dry and free of oil. Position shop rags to catch the overspray and keep the carb cleaner off your timing belt.
2) Position your cam pulley so the leaking piston is facing directly up.
3) Fill the small depression around the piston with .
4) Wait for the silicone to cure - overnight would be best - and you're done!
Under the piston with the o-ring is a spring and under the spring is the component that moves.
So here's the ultimate low buck ghetto fix for a leaking VVT pulley. I'm confident this fix will work well. I'd certainly do it on my car. In fact I probably will as a preventive measure.
1) Clean the visible part of the piston with spray carb cleaner. Do this several times so the metal is absolutely dry and free of oil. Position shop rags to catch the overspray and keep the carb cleaner off your timing belt.
2) Position your cam pulley so the leaking piston is facing directly up.
3) Fill the small depression around the piston with .
4) Wait for the silicone to cure - overnight would be best - and you're done!
Last edited by migbro; 07-22-2014 at 11:15 PM.
#55
07-23-2014, 08:25 AM
OK, Mr. Carter, this may help you a lot. After looking at the VVT pulley a little more it became clear that the piston with the o-ring doesn't actually do anything. It does not move in the bore, all it does is close the hole it sits in.
Under the piston with the o-ring is a spring and under the spring is the component that moves.
So here's the ultimate low buck ghetto fix for a leaking VVT pulley. I'm confident this fix will work well. I'd certainly do it on my car. In fact I probably will as a preventive measure.
1) Clean the visible part of the piston with spray carb cleaner. Do this several times so the metal is absolutely dry and free of oil. Position shop rags to catch the overspray and keep the carb cleaner off your timing belt.
2) Position your cam pulley so the leaking piston is facing directly up.
3) Fill the small depression around the piston with flowable silicone.
4) Wait for the silicone to cure - overnight would be best - and you're done!
Under the piston with the o-ring is a spring and under the spring is the component that moves.
So here's the ultimate low buck ghetto fix for a leaking VVT pulley. I'm confident this fix will work well. I'd certainly do it on my car. In fact I probably will as a preventive measure.
1) Clean the visible part of the piston with spray carb cleaner. Do this several times so the metal is absolutely dry and free of oil. Position shop rags to catch the overspray and keep the carb cleaner off your timing belt.
2) Position your cam pulley so the leaking piston is facing directly up.
3) Fill the small depression around the piston with flowable silicone.
4) Wait for the silicone to cure - overnight would be best - and you're done!
But you are correct, that spring always pushes out on the piston, and when the gear is pressurized it would be pressed out even more. I couldn't think of a way that the piston would be pulled down into the hub against the pressure of the spring....
Did you open the hub to look at the internals of it? I couldn't get the remaining bolts off to open it up, I was very curious to see exactly what was under that piston.
#56
07-23-2014, 08:28 AM
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK, Mr. Carter, this may help you a lot. After looking at the VVT pulley a little more it became clear that the piston with the o-ring doesn't actually do anything. It does not move in the bore, all it does is close the hole it sits in.
Under the piston with the o-ring is a spring and under the spring is the component that moves.
So here's the ultimate low buck ghetto fix for a leaking VVT pulley. I'm confident this fix will work well. I'd certainly do it on my car. In fact I probably will as a preventive measure.
1) Clean the visible part of the piston with spray carb cleaner. Do this several times so the metal is absolutely dry and free of oil. Position shop rags to catch the overspray and keep the carb cleaner off your timing belt.
2) Position your cam pulley so the leaking piston is facing directly up.
3) Fill the small depression around the piston with flowable silicone.
4) Wait for the silicone to cure - overnight would be best - and you're done!
Under the piston with the o-ring is a spring and under the spring is the component that moves.
So here's the ultimate low buck ghetto fix for a leaking VVT pulley. I'm confident this fix will work well. I'd certainly do it on my car. In fact I probably will as a preventive measure.
1) Clean the visible part of the piston with spray carb cleaner. Do this several times so the metal is absolutely dry and free of oil. Position shop rags to catch the overspray and keep the carb cleaner off your timing belt.
2) Position your cam pulley so the leaking piston is facing directly up.
3) Fill the small depression around the piston with flowable silicone.
4) Wait for the silicone to cure - overnight would be best - and you're done!
#57
07-23-2014, 08:41 PM
You know, when I first looked at that piston I felt the same way. But I could not fathom Volvo engineering something like that that served no purpose. I had assumed it must somehow control the locking mechanism for the hub.
But you are correct, that spring always pushes out on the piston, and when the gear is pressurized it would be pressed out even more. I couldn't think of a way that the piston would be pulled down into the hub against the pressure of the spring....
Did you open the hub to look at the internals of it? I couldn't get the remaining bolts off to open it up, I was very curious to see exactly what was under that piston.
But you are correct, that spring always pushes out on the piston, and when the gear is pressurized it would be pressed out even more. I couldn't think of a way that the piston would be pulled down into the hub against the pressure of the spring....
Did you open the hub to look at the internals of it? I couldn't get the remaining bolts off to open it up, I was very curious to see exactly what was under that piston.
I have the bolts out of the hub but that's as far as I've gone. The pulley did not come apart after the bolts were removed. I haven't had time to play with it further.
But now I'm starting to doubt that I'm correct about the "piston" with the o-ring being just a hole plug. I need to look at it again.
Robert Carter, please hold off on the silicone repair for now.
Last edited by migbro; 07-23-2014 at 08:47 PM.
#58
07-23-2014, 09:22 PM
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought one of these to remove the bolts and it worked like a charm.
I have the bolts out of the hub but that's as far as I've gone. The pulley did not come apart after the bolts were removed. I haven't had time to play with it further.
But now I'm starting to doubt that I'm correct about the "piston" with the o-ring being just a hole plug. I need to look at it again.
Robert Carter, please hold off on the silicone repair for now.
I have the bolts out of the hub but that's as far as I've gone. The pulley did not come apart after the bolts were removed. I haven't had time to play with it further.
But now I'm starting to doubt that I'm correct about the "piston" with the o-ring being just a hole plug. I need to look at it again.
Robert Carter, please hold off on the silicone repair for now.
#59
10-10-2014, 02:07 AM
#60
10-10-2014, 11:12 AM
What type/size of o-ring did you use?