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oil leak at vvt pulley

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  #21  
Old 01-05-2014, 12:10 AM
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I would even argue it should be part of the kit when changing the timing belt at 105,000 miles. It will leak. It's just a matter of when.
 
  #22  
Old 01-05-2014, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Hudini
I would even argue it should be part of the kit when changing the timing belt at 105,000 miles. It will leak. It's just a matter of when.
Even better would be Volvo acknowledging that this was/is a design flaw and replacing them for free

BTW, I just received my new VVT gear (169.99 from eBay) and I cannot figure out what that little plunger actually does! I know its pushing on the outer gear, either to change the timing or reset it... But what is it pushing against? The middle part and the outer gear appear to be bolted together solid. Can someone shed some light on what that badly designed plunger is doing? And After I get the old one out Ill try to take the whole thing apart and post some pics.

Jeremy
 
  #23  
Old 01-05-2014, 09:43 AM
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I don't think it moves. Either a backstop to something below it or a way to limit cam movement. There must be a logical reason for it's design.
 
  #24  
Old 01-05-2014, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Hudini
I don't think it moves. Either a backstop to something below it or a way to limit cam movement. There must be a logical reason for it's design.
I thought about that, but it couldn't be. If it doesn't move that why have it there at all?

I'm thinking it must push something on the inside of the hub that lets the cam rotate and retard/advance the timing.
 
  #25  
Old 03-14-2014, 07:08 PM
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Thanks for the valuable info, about to do this. I used a UV dye. lets just say it was as clear as glowing radioactive oil in a puddle around the plunger. this thing seems illogical. if it was simply a backstop why didn't they just make it a closed system with the plunger a solid part of the gear. I haven't taken the time to take it apart yet to study it but so far it seems like a design to get customers to replace their expensive and leaking but otherwise perfectly functioning cam gear as a way to milk us poor saps. idk, w/e. may report back later.

p.s. first time poster. you guys are awesome, saving me so much time and money!
 

Last edited by hhn2002; 03-14-2014 at 07:12 PM.
  #26  
Old 09-10-2014, 11:34 PM
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Hi for those of you that have done the o-ring repair on the VVT gear, where can i get the o-ring that will work? Is it the same spec as the original?

Thanks again for all your input on this, it's helped me keep my car running.
 
  #27  
Old 09-11-2014, 08:36 AM
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From another thread:

Originally Posted by migbro
I bought this socket to remove those bolts: SK Hand Tool 787 8.75mm 11/32-Inch Standard Drive Socket Turbo, 1/4-Inch. Works like a charm.

The little piston is in fact just a hole plug. To fix it you'll need a metric o-ring 8.5 mm x 2 mm. That's 8.5 mm ID and 2 mm width (diameter of the cross-section).

I'm pretty confident a ghetto fix would also work fine. Without taking anything apart, clean up the piston area with spray carb cleaner and fill the depression around the piston with flowable silicone.
 
  #28  
Old 09-11-2014, 10:39 AM
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Default Thank you!

Thanks for the quick accurate response.
How about the outer diameter of the oring? is it the same diameter as the width of the oring? i would assume so? otherwise it would be described as a rubber washer?
 
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Old 09-11-2014, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by TechnicALFA
Thanks for the quick accurate response.
How about the outer diameter of the oring? is it the same diameter as the width of the oring? i would assume so? otherwise it would be described as a rubber washer?
An O-ring is a toroid, basically a circular cylinder connected end to end so OD=ID+WIDTH or in this case 8.5mm+2mm=10.5mm.

I just went to napa, brought the plunger with me and had them fit one. Been fine so far as i can tell. Just make sure its an o-ring made for the engine environment. Which is what all automotive stores should carry if they have them.
 

Last edited by hhn2002; 09-11-2014 at 12:23 PM.
  #30  
Old 12-11-2014, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by hhn2002
An O-ring is a toroid, basically a circular cylinder connected end to end so OD=ID+WIDTH or in this case 8.5mm+2mm=10.5mm.

I just went to napa, brought the plunger with me and had them fit one. Been fine so far as i can tell. Just make sure its an o-ring made for the engine environment. Which is what all automotive stores should carry if they have them.
Now, was wondering if did that help oil leaking from the VVT gear? Can i have the link of the o-ring?

Thanks

EDIT:

Just went bit further with researching... found the link for o ring but any DIY? I paid 2500 for v40 and I def don't want to pay other 500-1000 for repair but simple ghetto fix ad stop the oil leak.

Thanks
 

Last edited by iZam; 12-11-2014 at 09:34 AM.
  #31  
Old 02-28-2016, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Hudini
From another thread:
Thanks guys, I just noticed same issue on my 2000 V40. That after I replaced the front cranckshaft seal because I thought this is where it was leaking.
Just a note on the o-ring because I will go and buy one.
You should add the thickness twice for outside diameter because it is a circle.
8.5+2+2=12.5mm.
Thanks again for all the info on this website. Very helpful
 
  #32  
Old 04-25-2016, 11:36 AM
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Default Help 2001 V40 turbo oil leak from cvvt pulley

Guys I'm in need of some desperate help. I purchased a Volvo v40 last year with 90k and it drove perfect well a few months ago when changing the thermostat in the vehicle, a mechanic spotted a bunch of oil leakif coming from the cvvt solinoied and spocket.

The leak drips all the way down and it leaks a lot of oil down on to the timing belt as well, .he changed the oil for me and advised me that it was the pulley and that I needed to get I fixed asap cause the timing belt could go bad and cause bent valves.

Well I finally saved the money to fix my vehicle after 4-5 weeks driving with the leak and now my car makes a loud whistling noise when accelerating coming from the passenger side of the vehicle...it's really loud and then the car turns off when driving and has a really weak and rough idle..

Does anyone on here know what this problem "loud whistling noise when accelerating, and car turning off" is?

Did me not fixing the leak from the VVT pulley in time cause this or is this something completely different.

I've read that it could be a vaccuum leak or the pcv valve oil tapper but I'm scared it could be something worse
 
  #33  
Old 04-27-2016, 05:27 PM
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It may be the timing belt is a tooth off. This won't cause damage but it will cause running issues. Check the alignment marks on the cam gears and timing belt cover.

Do you have a check engine light?

The whistling from a bad PVC system is the 2004.5+ 2.4L and 2.5L cars, not the 2000-2004 1.9L turbo cars. The whistle comes from the oil dip stick hole.

On the 2001 you can have a blocked air/oil separator that causes oil to leak from the crank and cam seals. This is the big black plastic thing under the intake manifold. Other symptoms besides the oil leaks are a lack of vacuum though the oil fill hole at idle.

At the very bottom of the black plastic air/oil separator see the round connection to the engine block? That can clog with old water and oil condensation mixed into a milky brown plug. It's a PITA to get to but it's free to clean.

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  #34  
Old 11-26-2017, 06:33 PM
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Default Leaking oil from vvt (exhaust cam)

Sup guys,. I've got a 2004 s40 1.9t (b4204t) that I almost just drove off a cliff due to that leaking vvt gear!! Hudini!!!! If ur reading this, that's what caused my whip to jump time!! Like people are saying, that little plunger has an oring that fails and starts to **** oil all over the inside of the upper and lower timing covers, including the timing belt!!!. Definitely not cool. Well it happened to mine and what a f_ing nightmare!!!! I was lucky and my motor hung up while being cranked over and nothing was damaged.

Anyway, my big *** question here is;.... My vvt is pissing oil!! I DO NOT want to mess with that gear. I've heard that people are putting silicone or epoxy around the vvt plunger to stop the leak. Obviously, that will compromise the way the vvt will advance/retard timing. Is this a bad idea or can u get away with doing it. I'm not a fan of the cheap way out but I'm freaking broke!!! Let me know guys

Thanks. Swells
 
  #35  
Old 11-27-2017, 10:30 AM
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Go with a new o-ring. Someone above posted the size. If I would have known earlier I too would have tried this method.

I don't think the plunger actually moves so the important thing is just to get the leak sealed.

Let us know your results?
 
  #36  
Old 11-28-2017, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Swells
...

Anyway, my big *** question here is;.... My vvt is pissing oil!! I DO NOT want to mess with that gear. I've heard that people are putting silicone or epoxy around the vvt plunger to stop the leak. Obviously, that will compromise the way the vvt will advance/retard timing. Is this a bad idea or can u get away with doing it. I'm not a fan of the cheap way out but I'm freaking broke!!! Let me know guys

Thanks. Swells


Hi Swells,


You definatly do not want to go through the PITA that was me spending 3 days replacing that God forsaken VVT gear! I do have a good writeup on the whole process on here somewhere with lots of pics .


I can tell you that that plunger does NOT move. I have another post somewhere where I took my old one apart. That plunger is just filling in a hole that needed to be drilled into the hub as part of the manufacturing process! Honestly if you could just run a bead of weld around the plunger and seal it up permanently that would work great . Not sure of silicone would hold up. Its not a drip coming out of that plunger, the oil behind it is under pressure. I think pressure would build up while driving and force its way out eventually.


Fortunately (...) my Volvo died not long after swapping out the VVT. I used an aftermarket Timing Belt kit and the bearing in one of the idlers seized up... trashed the valves, not worth the $$$ to fix. Glad it happened... went back to driving Fords and would never even consider owning another over-engineered POS Volvo.
 
  #37  
Old 12-18-2017, 01:17 PM
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Default New vvt hub ma lo ing noise,i need healp please

Originally Posted by Livens
Are you talking about the timing belt itself, or the VVT Gear?

As for the timing belt you cannot really determine if its about to fail. After 100k miles it can go at any time. But I have drivin timing belts all the way up to 180k (on a ford) without issue. I guess you could slowly turn the engine over and check the belt for any major cracks. Timing belts with over 80k will have small surface cracks, thats pretty normal. So its best to just go by the recommended change intervals for the car. I thnk most Volvos are 105k, but I have read some interesting articles that recommend as low as every 70k.

As for the VVT Gear, all you can do is check for oil around the plunger. Any oil at all and it can do nothing except get worse.


hello people,i just replace a new vvt hub on my 04 s40 volvo,because the old one has an oil leak,so when i finish i start the engine and a rettling noise starts on the new vvt hub,does anybody has a similar problem and want to share a solution for this experince? Thanks!!
 
  #38  
Old 07-31-2023, 12:07 PM
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There must be a logical reason for it's design.

haha.

How long have you had a post-RWD Volvo?

There's no logic in any of it.
 
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