I've replaced the solenoid actuator- shiny and new. So, back to square one.
Did the cleaning actually help anyone in the long run?

 

Did the cleaning actually help anyone in the long run?

I can't answer with any degree of certainty because of the damage I caused to the spool and cartridge during the "disassembly" process.

I ended up buying a used solenoid/valve set for $39. It was advertised as an official Volvo certified rebuilt. I don't know about that - but it did come in a Volvo box.

Anyway:

Even with the new/rebuilt set in place I was still having to race to get my "ready to reads" clear before I would get 2 P0015's and bam... CEL on the dash. Clear the CEL and start the drive cycle all over again.

Had to do that twice and then I got my minimum 6 ready to read out of 7(NH allows 1 NRTR on that vintage/model Volvo).

The P0015's definitely slower in popping up with the rebuilt "camshaft reset valve" - that is the official term BTW.

My oil filter did seem to have a higher amount of crap within the pleats than usual (see their first remedy suggestion below in bold type and 3 font).

And I did charge my battery which was weak during this whole process. The reset valve is shuttled by spring pressure after the engine is switched off so it is dependent on normal battery voltage at start up to move back and send operating oil pressure to the variable valve timing unit on the cam sprocket. I believe this reset action must occur within 1.5 seconds. My wishful thinking was that my weak battery was not able to snap the reset valve spool back within that time limit, and so the ECU noted a Faulty signal. Intermittent fault condition.

Whatever - it worked. The car has an emissions sticker and my wife is no longer living in fear of passing by a cop and getting a ticket.


Some info from Volvo:

Faulty signal. Intermittent fault

Check


Each time that the engine is switched off the camshaft pulley sets itself in the locked position. The control module checks that the camshaft pulley leaves the locked position when the engine is started again. Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) ECM-61 is stored if the control module detects that the camshaft pulley is in the locked position.

Substitute value
None.

Possible source

• Low oil pressure in the engine
• Blocked oil ducts for the camshaft reset valve
• Defective camshaft reset valve.

Fault symptom[s]

• Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) lit.

• Ignition off.

Check the connectors on the camshaft reset valve, control module and camshaft position (CMP) sensor. Check for contact resistance and oxidation according to Checking wiring and terminals. Intermittent faults See: Powertrain Management\Computers and Control Systems\Testing and Inspection\Component Tests and General Diagnostics\Checking Wiring and Terminals\Checking Wiring and Terminals. Intermittent Faults.
Check the engine oil quality, check for contaminants in particular.
Replace the engine oil if necessary.
Check the engine oil pressure for low oil pressure.
Remove the camshaft reset valve.
Check the oil ducts for the camshaft reset valve and camshaft pulley in the cylinder head for blockages.
Remedy as necessary.

Other information:

• To check the oil pressure, see Oil pressure: Inspecting and replacing the oil pressure sensor See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust\Engine\Oil Pressure Sensor\Service and Repair\Removal and Replacement\Inspecting And Replacing The Oil Pressure Sensor
• To access the control module, see Engine control module (ECM), replacing See: Powertrain Management\Computers and Control Systems\Engine Control Module\Service and Repair
• To access or replace the camshaft reset valve, see Replacing the variable valve timing (VVT) control valve See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust\Engine\Variable Valve Timing Actuator\Service and Repair\Removal and Replacement\Replacing The Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Control Valve.

 

Please excuse the blue links - I have no idea where they came from or how to clear them.

 

Again, great information.

(I think the blue links you describe are on your end only. I do not see any links. I have heard of this being caused by something like a 3rd party cookie. Searching google for answers has not turned up anything so far.)

 

That is strange. Here is a screenshot I just took - still there:



They all link to Volkswagen ads.

 

I've seen that before. I consider it malware. I believe it's a 3rd party cookie or persistent cookie that does that. I'd run a cookie and cache deletion program as well as Malwarebytes. When it shows up on my iPad I delete all cookies, browsing history, and all saved website data.

 

I have not solved the P0014/P0015 codes yet, but once again have gotten the CEL to go off long enough in order to get my 2000 volvo s40 inspected. Down to the wire this time. Here's what I have been doing... it is simple: I get my oil changed. This will clear the code for a few days. Not long, especially at this time of year (in the warmer months, the CEL may stay stay off for weeks or a month or two, but not when the air temperature is cold or coldish).
Unfortunately, a day or two doesn't give one much time to work with. I changed the oil the middle of the this month, but then missed the cleared CEL window (a day and a half). So, I had to change the oil again. I didn't change out the filter this time. After a week my CEL didn't still hadn't disappeared, so for good measure, I cleaned my MAF and throttle body (I used some sprays that they sell for this- I'd done this before and the car seemed to like it). A day after I did this my CEL went out, and then the next day I got my car to the mechanic for inspection. Passed. whew. CEL still out. Not sure if it was the cleaning or the second oil change.
Here are my thoughts though on the whole situation. The CEL goes out when the oil is very fresh, or when the oil is running thinner because of warm temperatures in the summer. I think the P0014/15 codes are being thrown because of some sludging going on. I bought this car used, and perhaps it didn't always have its oil changed regularly. I really am not sure how to ultimately fix this though. I do a lot of the work myself, but am not a mechanic. If you have any ideas, I would love them. Otherwise it is the yearly dance to get the codes cleared.

 

There are a couple old school tricks to cleaning sludge. Either one means the need for another oil change so it could get expensive. First is Seafoam cleaner added to the oil in the correct amount (listed on can). This thins the oil and add solvents. Run it only as long as the instructions recommend. Then change the oil and filter. The 2nd method is to drain a pint of oil (or wait for the level to drop a bit if yours leaks) then add a pint of automatic transmission fluid to the engine oil. This also thins the oil and cleans the sludge from the engine. You can run this for a couple hundred miles before a need to change the oil and filter.

If these do not help I would consider changing the CVVT gear on the exhaust cam. This is your most expensive option though. The CVVT gear itself is $195 (FCP Euro). Plus you would need to hold the cam from turning while removing the old gear and installing the new one. This is hard to do without the very expensive cam holder tool at $280+. You could always make a tool if you can do basic metal work.

 

I had this problem on my '01 since I've owned it from 2004-now. Back in summer 2011 I had to get my CAM seal redone (due to a leak) and told my dealer to change the CVVT hub while they were at it. It fixed the problem... until yesterday that is. Oh well 2+ years without the P10015 code is not too shabby. I think these engines are just very prone to sludge and I know the previous owner did not do his oil changes like I do (I always put synthetic and change is less than 7k km). Not sure what to do now, maybe run ATF and change oil soon again to try keeping it as clean as possible. Great engine aside from this.

 

I recently bought 2004 v40 with check engine and p0015 code since I got it from used car dealer. the car has 96k miles with somewhat sketchy oil changes by previous owner. I changed oil twice with sea foam treatment prior to change and light and code reappeared in about hundred miles. The car drives fine, may be not as good as it should be with acceleration, but overall similar to my previous v40 I had before. Idles without problems.
I contacted local shop, supposedly familiar with these cars, and asked them to change timing belt, cvvt hub. At the end they ended up just changing the belt, saying that the hub looks OK and it is another big job for them(???).
They changed cam position sensor (more common problem according to them). Naturally in about 100 miles p0015 is back. I took off and took apart cvvt solenoid. It did not look dirty or corroded. When I apply 12v to it it makes fast knocking noises and inner piece moves inside. I measured 12v between one of the wires and ground and about one between wires with idling or running engine. When I applied 12 v to solenoid contacts on idling engine, it almost stalled and then revved up back after disconnect. †his makes me believe that cvvt hub/solenoid are intact and problem is somewhere else. What do you think? I am stuck.

 

My guess is still the solenoid (camshaft reset valve). Just a guess though as I'm more of a parts changer.

 

Does anybody know any good Volvo shop in NJ area?
I think I' d rather pay for good targeted Vidas diagnostics instead of replacement of random parts.

 

I have google for the both P0015 and P0014 and no solution. Solenoid valve maybe the culprit but the actual cause still the hydraulic valve. As the volvo not moving that frequent or using mineral oil, the sludge begin to develop. Unfortunately, the sludge will block the oil passage way. Ouch. Hence, oil unable to proceed through the hydraulic valve oil channel and caused it unable to close fully. Hence, the injectors will squirts more gas but due to lack of compression, it crank but won't starts then burning rich. How to solve, fairly easy, use liqui moly hydraulic valve addictive 2 cans and pour entire can into the engine with Mobil 1 full synthetic oil 0-40W. You will encountered more difficulty to start initially but let the engine cure with this addictive as it has the properties to clean the oil passage way. I m not trying to advertise here about this brand. After 5000km, change the PCV box. It is a must as it fill with sludge and may build the crankcase pressure then affect the oil pump efficiency and then cause the hydraulic valve to unable to close again. Be patient with the 5000 km. Mine has gone, and it never appear again. But I did an extreme flushing my engine with diesel. I have empty the engine oil, place back the oil sump nut, pour 10 liters of diesel, let it soak overnight, flush it and then pour another 10 liters to push out the remaining sludge. Pour in cheap engine oil, let it run about 500 km, and then change to fully synthetic oil with new oem oil filter. I hope you can make it.

 

Yep, I got rid of mine by changing the VVT gear. A couple more things to consider:


1) Volvo issued an updated gasket for the solenoid that contains a small mesh ring (presumably to keep some of the sludge out of the smaller oil passages).


2) If the timing belt job hasn't been done just so, you will be susceptible to getting this code. If you've recently had your belt changed and then the code comes up, I would not be surprise if they messed up the job (ever so slightly). If someone tried doing the job without using the cam locking tools, again, don't be surprised of the code comes up.


I'm told that the cam sensor is hardly ever the issue, same with the solenoid...it is usually the VVT gear. In my case, I took my timing belt and VVT gear off to get access to the cam seals (they were leaking) and did not follow the procedure for re-installing exactly to the letter and for the next month the P0015 error came on half the time and then went away. Not wanting to mess around too much, I took everything apart again replacing both the belt AND the VVT gear and followed the directions more carefully. The bit that got me was that you need to make sure that there is no slack in the belt between the exhaust cam and the crank gear when re-tensioning the belt. This means turning the crank ever so slightly clock-wise to remove any slack and then tensioning the tensioner. Then (making sure that crank locking bolt has been inserted) you rotate the crank ever so slightly counterclockwise until it sits against the pin once more so that timing can be established exactly.


This vehicle is very sensitive when it comes to getting the timing right. If is even slightly out of whack the VVT gear will not spring out of its lock position and you'll get the timing retarded message...love the choice of words.


3) This one is only a guess, if you've never done a PCV/oil trap replacement I wonder if you would be more susceptible to getting sludge build up? Can anyone comment on this? This service is probably a must have at say...125K miles.

 

Thank you guys for very valuble suggestions. I seafoamed my engine and changed synth. Mobil/Castrol at least 3 times. I put Auto Rx about 800 miles ago and my Castrol GTX 10w40 looks as good as olive oil so far. I hope it will finish the job of Seafoame because of working through different chemistry. This hopefully will take care of channels. Solenoid and gaskets are new. I will check oil pressure numbers next through pressure sensor port (by the way do you know the rpm/psi numbers for our engine??). I am little apprehensive about doing it now because sensor looks well rusted in. I probably will order new just in case. PVC system looks OK to me( good sucction with glove on engine oil filler opening, no seal leaking yet). If all checks out OK I will revisit timing and than will change the CVVT hub(looks pristine to me and tested ok with vida diagnostics). Talking about timing work do you have any good DIY write up. Also, I found cam/crank looking kits on ebay for about 60USD. Look made in China?? Are they any good?
Does anybody have Volvo files for this job?? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
On separate note, if you have any problems with climat control unit acting up, LMK if you need help with potentiometers. I ordered 10 of them from Germany and I can spare few and teach you how to fix it. Mine is finally working as ir should.
Mike

 

Here is a guide I put together for cam seals, vvt, crank seal. Make sure you use the last link in the string of replies, in it the document has been updated. Note that the most important part for timing is to make absolutely sure that there is no slack between crank and exhaust gear when you are tightening the tensioner. After you have tightened as per directions make sure you rotate the crank two full turns to ensure that tensioner gauge still sits smack in the middle (as well as timing marks aligned of course). This is where I messed up the first time. It honestly really doesn't take much to have the alignment off enough to have that f'n CEL code come back.


http://%22http//www.volvoforums.org....d.php?t=204876”

 

Hi Mike,

I think everyone with an older S40 has climate control issues Mine did and I too traced the problem back to faulty/corroded potentiometers. I pulled the climate control module apart and sprayed a electronics cleaner, Deoxit D5, onto the pots and worked them back and forth several times. Worked great for about a year, fan speed was steady as a rock... but the problem has come back.

Can you tell me the part number for the pots that you bought, and where you bought them too? I would like to replace them, pulling that module out and cleaning them is a PITA!

Thanks,

Jeremy

 

Piher 5K439M

It was not difficult. The original was marked 5KA93324. Carefully solder it out without overheatng the other elements of the plate. New one fits almost perfect and you have to gently bend the legs very slightly to get good fit with the shaft.
Mike

 

I too had the same annoying issue with my CCM. Soldered some new POTS two years ago and no issues since then. Be forewarned - the replacement POT may require a bit of manual "recalibration" to get it to behave as required. In my case this meant taking a lighter to the plastic spindle to melt it just enough to be able to gently twist it so that the fan turned to off when it was supposed to etc. easy job overall though.

 

Thanks for the info, but I am having a heck of a time finding that pot online.

I did find some 5kΩ Piher potentiometers, rated at 250mW:

PT15NV 5K A2020 PIHER - Potentiometer: mounting | TME - Electronic components

Do you know what the 439 in 5K439M means? Is 439 related to the mW? If not do you think this one would work?

Thanks for you help, I'm hoping I can get it fixed before the summer heat comes back