Proud new owner of a 2006 Volvo S40, question with brakes
#1
Proud new owner of a 2006 Volvo S40, question with brakes
I'm excited to be a part of the club!
Only issue for the car I found was a slight grinding noise coming from the front driver side tire(?) when I'm in motion. Looks like the brake pads are rusty... Noise continues, but fades slightly at higher speeds.
Do you know what might be wrong, and what it may cost to fix it?
Thank you!
edit: seems similar to this poster's problem: https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...se-help-77766/
Only issue for the car I found was a slight grinding noise coming from the front driver side tire(?) when I'm in motion. Looks like the brake pads are rusty... Noise continues, but fades slightly at higher speeds.
Do you know what might be wrong, and what it may cost to fix it?
Thank you!
edit: seems similar to this poster's problem: https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...se-help-77766/
Last edited by rationalmischief; 03-18-2015 at 06:48 PM.
#2
If you are saying that there is a grinding noise when brakes are applied I would take a good look at the state of the disc first. If the disc surface looks all rusty it might just be that the car has been sitting around too long and needs some good long moderate brake applications to clear the discs up.
You will also want to check the thickness of your brake pads though because if they have worn through then you will get a constant grinding of metal on metal each time you brake. This means you urgently needs to have pads AND discs replaced.
The above should be covered without issue in one of those "free" brake inspections so I would start there. You can probably do a visual on the pads yourself although you will only be able to see the thickness of the outside pad. You would need to at least take the wheel off do do a visual of the inside pad.
If you are in need of pads and discs, you will have to do both sides so worst case you have pads: $40 and discs: 2 x $60 plus labour ($100). The cost of pads and discs will vary substantially based on the quality you are after.
You will also want to check the thickness of your brake pads though because if they have worn through then you will get a constant grinding of metal on metal each time you brake. This means you urgently needs to have pads AND discs replaced.
The above should be covered without issue in one of those "free" brake inspections so I would start there. You can probably do a visual on the pads yourself although you will only be able to see the thickness of the outside pad. You would need to at least take the wheel off do do a visual of the inside pad.
If you are in need of pads and discs, you will have to do both sides so worst case you have pads: $40 and discs: 2 x $60 plus labour ($100). The cost of pads and discs will vary substantially based on the quality you are after.
#3
Hey thanks for getting back to me. I'll have the breaks checked out, but it doesn't grind when the brakes are applied. They seem fine.
However, I think I may need to change my engine mount because it grinds when I drive normally (peaks at about 55mph but goes away a little after it), I have a wobble n my steering wheel and I can feel shaking in the gas peddle.
Think my diagnosis could be correct? I'm going to have it looked at to make sure.
Thanks!
edit: also, my front end is bouncing a lot. Might need to change the suspension and/or struts. Could this be the culprit?
However, I think I may need to change my engine mount because it grinds when I drive normally (peaks at about 55mph but goes away a little after it), I have a wobble n my steering wheel and I can feel shaking in the gas peddle.
Think my diagnosis could be correct? I'm going to have it looked at to make sure.
Thanks!
edit: also, my front end is bouncing a lot. Might need to change the suspension and/or struts. Could this be the culprit?
Last edited by rationalmischief; 03-23-2015 at 08:55 PM.
#4
before you do the struts, do a front to rear tire rotation to make sure you don't have one tire badly out of balance. Grinding noise can be a few things - if the noise goes away during braking (even light pedal applications) then its likely pads/rotors. if the noise changes when you turn left or right at medium speed, then it can be a wheel bearing.
Engine mounts can be checked visually or by looking for a shift when revving - does your vibration change when you're driving at speed and lift the throttle (or when going downhill)?
Engine mounts can be checked visually or by looking for a shift when revving - does your vibration change when you're driving at speed and lift the throttle (or when going downhill)?
#5
before you do the struts, do a front to rear tire rotation to make sure you don't have one tire badly out of balance. Grinding noise can be a few things - if the noise goes away during braking (even light pedal applications) then its likely pads/rotors. if the noise changes when you turn left or right at medium speed, then it can be a wheel bearing.
I agree with MT6127. Based on what you have described the noise you are experiencing is likely not the brakes. If the "grinding" noise seems to increase with speed I would be inclined to guess that the wheel bearing is shot. If you are feeling it strongly in the steering wheel I would not wait too long before addressing. Get this looked at pronto.
#6
I agree with MT6127. Based on what you have described the noise you are experiencing is likely not the brakes. If the "grinding" noise seems to increase with speed I would be inclined to guess that the wheel bearing is shot. If you are feeling it strongly in the steering wheel I would not wait too long before addressing. Get this looked at pronto.
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