Slow starting
#1
Slow starting
Hey guys, my '02 Volvo S40 has been starting really slow for the last couple weeks. It takes about 4-5 seconds for it to finally role over and start. I have had my battery tested and it came out fine, so I figured it's my starter. However, I called my local shop that specializes in European cars and they said Volvo's have a known faulty wire from the starter to the battery. I'm just checking to see if anyone has heard of this. Thanks!
#2
RE: Slow starting
Hi,
I just checked for possible recalls on '02 S40, and there was nothing related to the starting system (only some child-seat anchour-related recall was found).
As to the possible faulty wire, you'd have to wait until a gentleman by the name of Moderator Tech replies. Now, when you turn the key to "START", how does the starter respond? Does it turn slowly, or does it barely turn?
Please let us know the brand name of the battery, how old it is, and whether the connections are clean or corroded. I don't know what tests the shop did, but usually there are 3 tests to ensure correct battery condition:
1) Voltage test: 12.2-12.6V with engine off, above 13V and less than about 14.5V with engine running.
2) Specific Gravity test: Each cell should read 1.275 at full charge, 12.5 for average, etc...
3) Load test: Has to be done with certain equipment.
If the battery is absolutely fine, then the problem is either the starter, its connections or some additional drag/load placed on the engine when cold (though this one is not very likely).
Lastly, drive to a local AutoZone or other auto parts shop and have it tested with an OBD-II diagnostic scanner, and if there are any codes,ask them to show you the code & fault descriptions.
Will wait for your update.
JPN
I just checked for possible recalls on '02 S40, and there was nothing related to the starting system (only some child-seat anchour-related recall was found).
As to the possible faulty wire, you'd have to wait until a gentleman by the name of Moderator Tech replies. Now, when you turn the key to "START", how does the starter respond? Does it turn slowly, or does it barely turn?
Please let us know the brand name of the battery, how old it is, and whether the connections are clean or corroded. I don't know what tests the shop did, but usually there are 3 tests to ensure correct battery condition:
1) Voltage test: 12.2-12.6V with engine off, above 13V and less than about 14.5V with engine running.
2) Specific Gravity test: Each cell should read 1.275 at full charge, 12.5 for average, etc...
3) Load test: Has to be done with certain equipment.
If the battery is absolutely fine, then the problem is either the starter, its connections or some additional drag/load placed on the engine when cold (though this one is not very likely).
Lastly, drive to a local AutoZone or other auto parts shop and have it tested with an OBD-II diagnostic scanner, and if there are any codes,ask them to show you the code & fault descriptions.
Will wait for your update.
JPN
#3
RE: Slow starting
Thanks for the response. I will try to answer your question best I can since I'm not great with the correct vocabwhen it comes tocars. First of all, let me say this... sometimes it actually starts right up, but that only happens about 20% of the time. When the problem occurs, I turn my key to start it up and everything actually sounds like it normally does. Well, with exception to the car completely turning on. Nothing sounds "slow" about itin my opinion. There's a good couple of seconds delay before the car finally starts up.
My battery is Volvo OEM, 2 years old with justa little corrosion. This was my wife's car and it died when she was out of town and that's whattheyput in it.
I will let you know if any codes show up.
My battery is Volvo OEM, 2 years old with justa little corrosion. This was my wife's car and it died when she was out of town and that's whattheyput in it.
I will let you know if any codes show up.
#4
RE: Slow starting
Hello,
You can bealmost sure that the battery is ok. In general, a quality battery lasts between 4 to 5 years with proper care(with the exception of premium maintenance-free batteries, which seem to last longer).
With my limited knowledge on the S40, I can only assume that the starter itself is going south, or the relay for the starter is about to give in, or the electrical portion of the ignition switch is going bad. This can only be answered either by Moderator Tech or other S40 members who have had similar problem.
Wait a bit more to see if someone with better knowledge than I replies shortly. If no one replies soon enough, have a visit to a local AutoZone/parts shop and if their scanner does not show anything, then you may want to visit a garage that specialises in Swedish/European makes for further trouble shooting. You may also choose to visit a dealer, but if you take this route, try to sound as knowledgeable as possible, as some dealers have tendency to sell you unnecessary parts/services by "scare-tactics", telling you that so and so parts are failing and if you don't fix it now (which costs $1,000[8D])it will cause more damage, which is BS.
I'm sorry I couldn't help you better.
JPN
You can bealmost sure that the battery is ok. In general, a quality battery lasts between 4 to 5 years with proper care(with the exception of premium maintenance-free batteries, which seem to last longer).
With my limited knowledge on the S40, I can only assume that the starter itself is going south, or the relay for the starter is about to give in, or the electrical portion of the ignition switch is going bad. This can only be answered either by Moderator Tech or other S40 members who have had similar problem.
Wait a bit more to see if someone with better knowledge than I replies shortly. If no one replies soon enough, have a visit to a local AutoZone/parts shop and if their scanner does not show anything, then you may want to visit a garage that specialises in Swedish/European makes for further trouble shooting. You may also choose to visit a dealer, but if you take this route, try to sound as knowledgeable as possible, as some dealers have tendency to sell you unnecessary parts/services by "scare-tactics", telling you that so and so parts are failing and if you don't fix it now (which costs $1,000[8D])it will cause more damage, which is BS.
I'm sorry I couldn't help you better.
JPN
#5
RE: Slow starting
Ok, I finally had my codes checked today and it passed. It found no codes. I'm almost convinced that it's my starter and I think JPN confirmed the same feeling. However, due to the location of the starter on our S40's, they wouldn't test it for me. I guess I'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it in to my local shop that specializes in European vehicles. How much am I looking at and is it something I can do my self? Despite my bad "car" vocab, I'm actually pretty good and fixing things. I even replaced my driver's side window regulator. Would it even be worth doing myself?
#7
#8
RE: Slow starting
Update: That was it! The fuel pressure regulator. Got the part for $80 and did it myself. Was very easy thanks to Tech's post in another thread:
https://volvoforums.com/m_47873/tm.htm
If I can do it, anyone can. Anyway, thanks to all those whohelped me, especially JoJo in this thread and Tech in the other thread. Made my weekend to know I wasn't out a lot of money. (they estimate labor on that $350 and my local dealer wanted $50 just to diagnose it). [sm=smiley20.gif]
https://volvoforums.com/m_47873/tm.htm
If I can do it, anyone can. Anyway, thanks to all those whohelped me, especially JoJo in this thread and Tech in the other thread. Made my weekend to know I wasn't out a lot of money. (they estimate labor on that $350 and my local dealer wanted $50 just to diagnose it). [sm=smiley20.gif]
#9
#10
Hey guys I have a 2000 Volvo s40 it takes a while to start maybe 7 seconds when it has been sitting there, But if I just started it and came back 10 mins later it would start right up.
I changed the fuel filter, air filter spark plugs. Problem remains. I took it to the auto shop they tested the battery and said it was fine, But said th alternotor is on it's way out.
But I have been reading on here it may be the fuel regulator. So What do you guys think?
Once it starts it drives perfectly.
I changed the fuel filter, air filter spark plugs. Problem remains. I took it to the auto shop they tested the battery and said it was fine, But said th alternotor is on it's way out.
But I have been reading on here it may be the fuel regulator. So What do you guys think?
Once it starts it drives perfectly.
Last edited by mg0698; 06-08-2013 at 03:24 PM.
#12
Sorry, I was trying to spark an update by previous posters.
I think I will try to see if my volvo has a shrader valve that I can test the pressure. Then switch the FPR.
Are any of the symptoms mentioned signs of a bad alternator? This problem has been going on for a while. I would assume with a bad alternator one day it just wouldn't start but it starts every time just takes a long time cranking.
I think I will try to see if my volvo has a shrader valve that I can test the pressure. Then switch the FPR.
Are any of the symptoms mentioned signs of a bad alternator? This problem has been going on for a while. I would assume with a bad alternator one day it just wouldn't start but it starts every time just takes a long time cranking.
#13
The alternator should not have anything to do with long cranking as its only job is to charge the battery. When the alternator goes bad you should get the red battery symbol on your dash as the battery is not being charged. Then when the voltage from the battery gets low you may get all kinds of strange electrical gremlins. This car hates low voltage (probably all newer cars too). Also when attempting a start you get "click, click, click" as the starter bendix tries to engage the flexplate but the starter motor does not get enough amps to turn the engine.
You can check the voltage at the battery with a digital multimeter. These are cheap and available at any hardware store. You want about 12.2 volts engine off and 14.4 volts engine running.
Good luck with your car and definitely let us know how it goes. When my 2001 had the long cranking I first replaced the IAC motor for $200. Then I searched and found this forum which directed me to the FPR which fixed me right up. Back then the FPR was $80 from the dealer. It's way more expensive now though. Easy to DIY though. One vacuum hose, one fuel line, one bolt.
You can check the voltage at the battery with a digital multimeter. These are cheap and available at any hardware store. You want about 12.2 volts engine off and 14.4 volts engine running.
Good luck with your car and definitely let us know how it goes. When my 2001 had the long cranking I first replaced the IAC motor for $200. Then I searched and found this forum which directed me to the FPR which fixed me right up. Back then the FPR was $80 from the dealer. It's way more expensive now though. Easy to DIY though. One vacuum hose, one fuel line, one bolt.
Last edited by Hudini; 06-09-2013 at 05:53 PM.
#16
and considering you are reading a six year old post, I'm sure Hudini won't mind me chiming in by saying his car is in good working order :-)
As to the general theme of the thread - if your car turns over slowly, its battery/cables/starter. If your car cranks for say 15 to 30 seconds or longer, you are in spark/fuel territory. The Gen 1 S40s FPRs have a diaphram that is prone to tear which allows the fuel pressure in the rail to drop after sitting and it takes the pump some time to build it back up. If you pull off the vacuum hose on the bottom (not visible in the pic) and fuel drips out, the part needs to be replaced. BTW, its also a crazy expensive part ($200+) for something that takes 15 minutes to replace...
As to the general theme of the thread - if your car turns over slowly, its battery/cables/starter. If your car cranks for say 15 to 30 seconds or longer, you are in spark/fuel territory. The Gen 1 S40s FPRs have a diaphram that is prone to tear which allows the fuel pressure in the rail to drop after sitting and it takes the pump some time to build it back up. If you pull off the vacuum hose on the bottom (not visible in the pic) and fuel drips out, the part needs to be replaced. BTW, its also a crazy expensive part ($200+) for something that takes 15 minutes to replace...
#17
#18
I am pretty sure in the 09 they have a variable pressure fuel pump that operates in conjunction with a fuel pressure sensor on the end of the rail, no regulator. 2002 is a different story. You should have a schrader valve (like a tire valve) on your fuel rail where you can test pressure with a gauge.
#19
So should I replace that variable pressure fuel pump?
I am pretty sure in the 09 they have a variable pressure fuel pump that operates in conjunction with a fuel pressure sensor on the end of the rail, no regulator. 2002 is a different story. You should have a schrader valve (like a tire valve) on your fuel rail where you can test pressure with a gauge.
#20
https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2009-vo...ted-components
example for 2.4i
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