I bought a used 2006 S40 5 speedwith 37,000 miles on it from a guy in Milwaukee, WI.He had all 7,500 mile services done( within 2,000 miles of each recommended service interval) and I now have 40,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on the other day and power on acceleration deminished significantly. I took it to thedealer shopand was told that it needs a new CAM RESET VALVE and they ordered the part and said it would be fine to drive until the part comes in later this week. I was told that because it has not had oil changed beween the 7500 mi services.. i.e. every 3200 miles the valve got fowled up. They said in hotter climates it needs evey 3200 miles ...the 7500 is for Sweden. I asked how often this happens and the service person said only one cam reset valvethey can remember?I have always changed oil in my vehicles( not volvo until know) every 5000 miles.85 % miles are highway.
Granted it is under warranty so that helps, but I was told I needed to have the "engine flushed out" and would cost ME $120.00 for that. Can anyone tell me how accurate all this is and if it is REALLY ok to drive it? AND btw....what is a cam reset valve?Does it takea long timeto do this repair service? They told me all day!!!THANKS IN ADVANCE

 

The Camshaft reset valve is what controls the VVT (Variable Valve Timing)
Thats the first I heard someone from Volvo pretty much admit that the 7,500 is to long to wait for oil changes. I have known that for years but no one at the Dealer would ever admit it.
Is it a Turbo car or Non turbo?
Do you have the receipts for all the oil changes?
If you do I would fight the Sludge problem and make them fix it under warranty.
I always change the oil on the cars in the following intervals
Turbo cars every 3,000 miles
Non turbo cars every 5,000 miles to prevent the sludge from forming.

 

I would also use full synthetic oil. This should help to reduce sludging.

 

Thanks you'll. I do have receipts for the routine 7500 mi maintenance. It is a non-turbo. Is the "flush the engine thing" bogus or necessary? Is this an all day procedure? Am I ok to drive it for a few days(70 miles/day) until the part comes in. The power on acceleration is deminished but ok at highway speed. AGAIN....THanks in advance.

I am a new owner and my husband and I will be doing as many of my ownrepairs/maintenance as possible after I am out of warranty.We REALLY appreciate your willingness to help "wannabe" mechanics!!!!
!
This has been my first trip to the dealership with the car since usedpurchaseand I am working on developing the "trust/bond" with them. I am female and do not plan to be given the "business" on repairs.
THANKS

 

I had the same thing (P0015 Camshaft Position Timing - Over Retarded Bank1). I was told they had to replace the camshaft reset valve & do 2 oil changes and drive the car hard inbetween to flush. From what I've read, this is typically a result of sludge from oil. I read somewhere (no one has confirmed) that synthetic oil may clear this up due to some of the cleaning agents removing the sludge over time.

I changed to Mobile1 full synthetic last week, not sure how long to wait though. I haven't really experienced any problems due to this engine light.

 

I had the same thing and changed the vvt and didnt work
some one said its out of timing
i got catlyst code

 

Hey Guys ,


I have the same problem with the cam reset valve . I have a 2001 s60 t5 and it was idling rough . I replaced the ETM and got a new VVT solenoid and gasket ( green ) . Problem still persists . One thing I noticed on VIDA that my adaptive camshaft openings are stuck at -20° on all 4 openings . So I unhooked the battery overnight and the next morning I fixed the battery back and rescanned the camshaft openings and to my suprise it was at 0° . I started the car and it idled fine without any issue . The moment I engaged drive and gave abit of throttle it came back to -20° and idled rough again . I did an oil change since my service is up and I used Mobil1 10w-40.

There are no DTC's so any help would be much appreciated .