volvo s40 performance?
#1
#2
You may want to read this post in the 850 section.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...-faster-58388/
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...-faster-58388/
#3
#5
Like it was said above the ECU tune is the simpliest way to go.Exhaust work isnt too extensive either just cut the 2nd CAT and the mid muffler out.Same time also do replace the flex section to a bigger one.These mods will give you about 40HP extra.
Now when you get used to this you can go deeper into mods and install a 3"DP and a 14T turbo which is a dirrect fit.If you do this youll need another flash on the ECU and bigger (550cc) injectors.Now you need to decide what you want how far are you willing to go so you can avoid the cost of the second flash
There is no reason to go with a much bigger turbo on this car as the 14T already challenging the AT.
You might find that with only these upgrades the car will be already a lot quicker.
ECU tune $400
Exhaust job about $250
Drop in performance filter $50
For a lot more:
New 14T about $500
Another flash about $250
RC 550cc injectors $400
3"DP anything from $350
If you will run stock boost on the 14T you should be good with the stock injectors but when you get the new tune for that turbo it will not boost stock so getting the bigger injectors are highly recommended.
You can spend another $300 on a FMIC which always a good idea to have but thats all custom work.
If you can do all the work yourself then you can get away relativelly cheap but if you have to see a mech then you are SOL.
Check out my car in the garage for the upgrades if you have any questions let me know.
Forgot to mention a very simple "upgrade" which cost nothing to do.There is a thing which is usefull when one lives in Antartica and has a block warmer installed.The intake is beeing heated by the coolant meaning as the coolant gets hot the intake also heats up.This works in a very cold climate tho only if the block heater is installed and it is plugged in overnight.
If you look at the left side of the intake you will see 2 rubber hose connected to it.Disconnect it then loop it back.This way the intake temperature will drop dramatically helping you to gain a couple of horses.
I dont have the ling to a how-to when I get home will try to find it.
Now when you get used to this you can go deeper into mods and install a 3"DP and a 14T turbo which is a dirrect fit.If you do this youll need another flash on the ECU and bigger (550cc) injectors.Now you need to decide what you want how far are you willing to go so you can avoid the cost of the second flash
There is no reason to go with a much bigger turbo on this car as the 14T already challenging the AT.
You might find that with only these upgrades the car will be already a lot quicker.
ECU tune $400
Exhaust job about $250
Drop in performance filter $50
For a lot more:
New 14T about $500
Another flash about $250
RC 550cc injectors $400
3"DP anything from $350
If you will run stock boost on the 14T you should be good with the stock injectors but when you get the new tune for that turbo it will not boost stock so getting the bigger injectors are highly recommended.
You can spend another $300 on a FMIC which always a good idea to have but thats all custom work.
If you can do all the work yourself then you can get away relativelly cheap but if you have to see a mech then you are SOL.
Check out my car in the garage for the upgrades if you have any questions let me know.
Forgot to mention a very simple "upgrade" which cost nothing to do.There is a thing which is usefull when one lives in Antartica and has a block warmer installed.The intake is beeing heated by the coolant meaning as the coolant gets hot the intake also heats up.This works in a very cold climate tho only if the block heater is installed and it is plugged in overnight.
If you look at the left side of the intake you will see 2 rubber hose connected to it.Disconnect it then loop it back.This way the intake temperature will drop dramatically helping you to gain a couple of horses.
I dont have the ling to a how-to when I get home will try to find it.
Last edited by GerBeGurGya; 01-23-2012 at 11:42 AM.
#7
Its all depends on the rear muffler.I myself have the OEM muffler on a completelly open system and the tone a little deeper but not louder.Now I see youv got an aftermarket muffler so I can not comment on that.You want that midle section out if you want performance from just after the DP back where the pipes turning.
#9
GerBeGurGya...
I applaud ure insight...into the Volvos, new to me [just bought a 2000 V40/1.9T].
And I do wonder the 'handle ' you picked up..if it has something to do with Scandanavia..region!
Not sure why we will like more out of a 1.9T, which has a better pick up than a 3.L regular[on other cars].
we goto realize that rest of car..is NOT designed to handle extra power[or demand] placed on the major components ..like you said:
'There is no reason to go with a much bigger turbo on this car as the 14T already challenging the AT.You might find that with only these upgrades the car will be already a lot quicker.'.
Now what I want to know and do is to improve the efficiency..[as 2001-2004 have better mpg]. I get barely 24 combined[28 max hwy with Auto Xmssn]
What do u suggest as the things one can do except cutting mid muffler/resonator...?
An an engr I do understand well that eff of an engine is related to the temp diff [T2-T1], between in coming air AND temp of combus-chamber which is Limited by oil and brgs and other metals...keeping this engine almost same as was a century ago. Japs tried Ceramic lined blocks, non-0iled ...but brittleness and cost makes 'em non practical for consumer market at least....so they went Hybrid..
So lowering incoming air temp is the obvious choice.
And eff goes up by the Square of Comp ratio which is also limited by fuel and its Octane...I think this is why 9.5/9.7 is kinda max and requires...91/93 octane. But nothing like Diesel Engine Comp ratio of 18/17:1.
Now what is on/around the in-air tubes...in S40, trying to heat the incoming air and why...[except in very cold envmnt ...may be like Sweden..but NOT for MD near DC...].
Lowering exit resistance[offered by Cat and muffler 1 and 2] obviously helps but I donot wanta touch emission related stuff. I ve a L-6 BMW/1987, Emssn no longer reqd...where I m removing everything...as long as the decibels don't shake the already awake neighbors. [BMW never was keen for Turbos..and Japs are beginning to..]
Its true lot of heat is dumped into cat purposely[ temp needed to convert CO to CO2], at the cost of letting it do mech work inside the chamber...particularly when engine is cold....when cat has tobe warmed up.
So ...what chips/ microprocessors or sensors if changed CAN help Eff ...not power..!
..some may change fire timing via ECU, improve combustion[within the Chbr],so can boost eff but lower out-temp may affect emssns[many don't care]..but my concern will be damage to the cat.
Thnx very much Sir ..
'
M
I applaud ure insight...into the Volvos, new to me [just bought a 2000 V40/1.9T].
And I do wonder the 'handle ' you picked up..if it has something to do with Scandanavia..region!
Not sure why we will like more out of a 1.9T, which has a better pick up than a 3.L regular[on other cars].
we goto realize that rest of car..is NOT designed to handle extra power[or demand] placed on the major components ..like you said:
'There is no reason to go with a much bigger turbo on this car as the 14T already challenging the AT.You might find that with only these upgrades the car will be already a lot quicker.'.
Now what I want to know and do is to improve the efficiency..[as 2001-2004 have better mpg]. I get barely 24 combined[28 max hwy with Auto Xmssn]
What do u suggest as the things one can do except cutting mid muffler/resonator...?
An an engr I do understand well that eff of an engine is related to the temp diff [T2-T1], between in coming air AND temp of combus-chamber which is Limited by oil and brgs and other metals...keeping this engine almost same as was a century ago. Japs tried Ceramic lined blocks, non-0iled ...but brittleness and cost makes 'em non practical for consumer market at least....so they went Hybrid..
So lowering incoming air temp is the obvious choice.
And eff goes up by the Square of Comp ratio which is also limited by fuel and its Octane...I think this is why 9.5/9.7 is kinda max and requires...91/93 octane. But nothing like Diesel Engine Comp ratio of 18/17:1.
Now what is on/around the in-air tubes...in S40, trying to heat the incoming air and why...[except in very cold envmnt ...may be like Sweden..but NOT for MD near DC...].
Lowering exit resistance[offered by Cat and muffler 1 and 2] obviously helps but I donot wanta touch emission related stuff. I ve a L-6 BMW/1987, Emssn no longer reqd...where I m removing everything...as long as the decibels don't shake the already awake neighbors. [BMW never was keen for Turbos..and Japs are beginning to..]
Its true lot of heat is dumped into cat purposely[ temp needed to convert CO to CO2], at the cost of letting it do mech work inside the chamber...particularly when engine is cold....when cat has tobe warmed up.
So ...what chips/ microprocessors or sensors if changed CAN help Eff ...not power..!
..some may change fire timing via ECU, improve combustion[within the Chbr],so can boost eff but lower out-temp may affect emssns[many don't care]..but my concern will be damage to the cat.
Thnx very much Sir ..
'
M
#16
If you look at the left side of the intake you will see 2 rubber hose connected to it.Disconnect it then loop it back.This way the intake temperature will drop dramatically helping you to gain a couple of horses.
I dont have the ling to a how-to when I get home will try to find it.
I dont have the ling to a how-to when I get home will try to find it.
#17
Here you go.Took me some time to find this as that site is dead and really screwed up.
How to: Hot water bypass mod (coolant bypass) - Troubleshooting and DIYs - 30 Forty 50
How to: Hot water bypass mod (coolant bypass) - Troubleshooting and DIYs - 30 Forty 50
#18
#20