Windshield washer fluid doesn't spray
#21
thanks for the info but I can locate my fuse box list for both places but nothing marked for windshield washer....just one for headlight washers 15A...which I don't have...plenty of fluid in the tank also
#22
It worked! Thanks for the info!
Thanks. This fix worked perfectly!
I bought a replacement part at a Napa store. Didn't get to see a package but the invoice says:
Part Number: 9884
Line: NBH
Description: TEE CONNECTOR
Price: $6.26
Seems a little pricey but I'm sure it save me a lot compared to putting a mechanic on such an easy fix. As stated before, it's not exactly the same part since there's no cap. Both hoses and the sprayer port fit very snug. Honestly seems like an upgrade unless I'm missing some design point like: in freezing temps cap expands/breaks instead of hose? Anyway I run only 0C or better fluid so I'll risk it.
Thanks everyone for the advice. Old thread but just what I needed for my 2005 S40.
Part Number: 9884
Line: NBH
Description: TEE CONNECTOR
Price: $6.26
Seems a little pricey but I'm sure it save me a lot compared to putting a mechanic on such an easy fix. As stated before, it's not exactly the same part since there's no cap. Both hoses and the sprayer port fit very snug. Honestly seems like an upgrade unless I'm missing some design point like: in freezing temps cap expands/breaks instead of hose? Anyway I run only 0C or better fluid so I'll risk it.
Thanks everyone for the advice. Old thread but just what I needed for my 2005 S40.
#23
On my 2013 C30, I found the fault to be the hose to the windshield nozzles pinched by the front left headlight assembly. Tucking the hose back behind the sheet metal strut was all the fix needed.
On symptoms, when the pump was activated, fluid would dribble out of the left hood nozzle with just enough pressure to reach the bottom of the windshield. But, once in a while, it'd actually spray the windshield with extraordinary pressure. I have no idea as to the cause of this sort of intermittent behavior. Now the spray comes out both nozzles with sufficient pressure for washing the windshield. I kinda' miss the huge blast, though.
I'd bought the car used w/ ~2000 miles on the odometer, and doubt the headlight has ever required work.
On symptoms, when the pump was activated, fluid would dribble out of the left hood nozzle with just enough pressure to reach the bottom of the windshield. But, once in a while, it'd actually spray the windshield with extraordinary pressure. I have no idea as to the cause of this sort of intermittent behavior. Now the spray comes out both nozzles with sufficient pressure for washing the windshield. I kinda' miss the huge blast, though.
I'd bought the car used w/ ~2000 miles on the odometer, and doubt the headlight has ever required work.
#24
OK...So my daughter's 2004 S40 is spraying out of the headlights, but not on the windshield. This started happening after she had run it dry. I pulled one of the calves under the hood and was able to suck some fluid up (hoping it was just a vapor lock), but it will still not pump to the windows.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Any ideas?
Thanks!
#26
OK...So my daughter's 2004 S40 is spraying out of the headlights, but not on the windshield. This started happening after she had run it dry. I pulled one of the calves under the hood and was able to suck some fluid up (hoping it was just a vapor lock), but it will still not pump to the windows.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Any ideas?
Thanks!
#27
I would pull the left fender liner to get to the "works," and debug from there.
- DO you actually have fluid?
- DO the pump(s) run? (One polarity drives the windshield, the other polarity drives the headlight)
- Are the tubes connected properly?
- Headlight washers only operate in lights-on position (not DRL) and only first and every third request after that (I think).
#28
2011 Volvo windshield washer valve
Hi Guys,
After reading the posts, you all helped me figure out what to buy instead of getting the dealership to replace it.
I too, noticed that the valve cap broke off on the drivers side causing all the water to pour into the engine. I purchased the L-connector valve, yet I have no idea how to install it?
The hose seems to be on pretty tight and I do not want to incur additional damages by pulling the hose off.
Can anyone help me?
After reading the posts, you all helped me figure out what to buy instead of getting the dealership to replace it.
I too, noticed that the valve cap broke off on the drivers side causing all the water to pour into the engine. I purchased the L-connector valve, yet I have no idea how to install it?
The hose seems to be on pretty tight and I do not want to incur additional damages by pulling the hose off.
Can anyone help me?
#30
Old thread here but, just got a new-to-me 2006 XC70. Reservoir was empty. Went to refill it and all the washer fluid pours out under the fill cap, coming out from all the gaps of the plastic and below the front bumper. Is the reservoir accessible from the wheel well or is it extremely buried? I hope it's just a loose hose.
#33
I had to replace the reservoir in my 2005 due to a previous accident before I bought the car. When taking things apart to access the tank I found a drywall screw had been used to secure the bottom radiator support. The drywall screw had punctured a hole in the condenser and then been removed and reinstalled with silicone sealant. Of course the seller never told me a thing.....
#34
When taking things apart to access the tank I found a drywall screw had been used to secure the bottom radiator support. The drywall screw had punctured a hole in the condenser and then been removed and reinstalled with silicone sealant. Of course the seller never told me a thing.....
That sounds pretty bad. I service heating and air for a living so I can imagine a drywall screw and sealant did not hold he refrigerant in too well.
#35
I took off the entire front fascia and driver's side wheel well liner and wheel. The fascia is rather easy once you've seen it done. I can take it off in abut 15 minutes or so now. Just take everything loose on the bottom before removing the top screws and plastic retainers. There are a couple long screws you can access once you remove the headlight housings.
#36
So... my eBay window wash jug was the wrong one and upon removal of my cracked jug I found the high pressure motor was toast. Called a local Volvo, got a new jug and motor. What a pain in the *** to change! But, I stuck to it and all is well now. No leftover parts! Quite proud of myself.
The ebay part was $55 shipped, chalk that up as a lesson learned. The new OEM jug and motor ran me $135 with tax. Not as bad as I thought it would be.
The ebay part was $55 shipped, chalk that up as a lesson learned. The new OEM jug and motor ran me $135 with tax. Not as bad as I thought it would be.
#39
Just wanted to chime in and say thanks for everyone's help here. I needed to replace my 2009 S40's T-Valve because the cap had popped off (see below) but had no idea what it was called. I went to my local parts store but they didn't have one. Found one online at Voluparts for $6.25 plus shipping. Replaced it and everything is working perfectly!
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12-05-2010 11:01 AM