Brake Booster replacement:

First start by Disconnecting the Battery.

Then open the hood and remove the Upper torque mount cross member.

Next remove the Air filter housing.

The remove the Big Cover over the Relay/fuse panel under the hood.
Once the cover is off remove the 13mm nut for the Positive cable.

Then remove the 2 screws securing the Relay box into place.(one of the screws is under where the positive cable just came off)
Unplug the one harness from the box and move the box to the side.

Then reach under and unplug the ABS module. There is 2 plugs. One you have to push a little tab and fold the cover back to release the plug. The other is 2 push tabs then pull.

Ok here is where it will get a little tricky. Look where the ABS pump motor assembly bolts to the body. There is 3 10mm bolts remove them and make sure the pump motor is loose.(No need to disconnect the lines)
Remove the 2 screws holding the Master Cylinder to the booster.
Unplug the sensor in the booster. Remove the Line and Valve from inside the booster.

That should be about it from outside till the booster is loose.

Inside the car:

Remove the Lower dash panel on the drivers side.
Then remove the clip holding the brake pedal to the booster. Either slide the Pin out or slide the Arm off.(Forget which it has). Then remove the 4 13mm screws holding the Booster to the Firewall.

Now go back outside:

Then slide the Master cylinder off of the Booster and kind of pull and move to the side.
Might require Carefully bending some of the lines. Then slide the Booster out.(Most of the times it takes some work to get it slid out. It might take some time to slide it out just take your time.

Then install in reverse order.

It will take a little time to do. About 1/2 a day at home with Hand tools.

Sorry forgot to tell you to make sure you check the adjustment on the brake light switch when you are done.

 

dont forget the readjust the brake switch, somtimes it'll keep the lights on if ya accidental move it.

 

Hi tech I'm new to forum but I have seein that you have a greate knowladge.

I have 2002 volvo s 60 awd 52000 milage, went for oil change and after 2 hours I left oill change my car died, went to diler putnam for inspection they told me that battery is dad I bought and replaced it my self, but message of "low batery voltage" keeps poping up. when I was trying to jump the car after it died 2 days ago I could jup it but after I took cables of it was runing for a minute and than died agun. I thought alternator or something but at dilers inspection they sad that it looks fine. I just don't now what that could be? what are your sugestions.

 

Sounds like a bad Alternator.

 

Its not the alternator, its Voltage Regulator, theres a TNN on it (tech net note) dealer should replace it free since theres a known problem..

 

Hi TECH,
I posted a forum on brake booster replacement. OEM vs. ATE aftermarket. Is the extra $200 worth the OEM unit?
thanks,
Flyboy

 

i just spoke with the parts guy at volvo and he said that ATE is OEM? I wonder why the price difference? Dealer mark up?

 

I think the ATE is OEM but not 100% sure. We install dealer ones.
But yes the Dealer has a big markup.

 

Hi Tech,

I have a 2003 S60 AWD 2.5L that started making this hissing noise when depressing the break, it's been a week now. I took it to the dealer yesterday and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. The shop manager said they did extensive road testing, and they only heard very very slight hissing noise from the break pedal. But I can still hear the noise. He said there's no visible problems with it, but if I wanted to I could just replace the break power booster which is ganna run me almost $1000. I'm not trying to do that unless I NEED to. So, my question is should I go ahead and replace it or have someone else look at it? I don't have a problem breaking at all, it's breaking just fine...I just want to make sure it doesn't go out on me or there's a problem later on down the line.

 

If there is a hissing noise I would get it replaced when you can it will only get worse.

 

Hey Tech

For a S60 T5 brake booster what is the better quality company to go with?
I've only seen to companys A1 Cardone and OES Genuine. Is there any others?

 

Not that I know of sorry.

 

I was recently in an accident and found out the brake booster switch was bad after the fact. Luckily I have an extended warranty and got it fixed. However, my insurance company is now saying that I didn't properly maintain my car. I just had the oil changed at the dealer less than a month ago and no one noticed it at the dealer either. So I am curious as what the symptoms are when the booster go out other that not being able to stop when you need to?

 

You will hear a hissing noise from under the dash.

 

Yeah, I took my 2002 Volvo S60 to the dealer for a brake booster replacement once I heard the hiss but he quoted $1,100!!!

So I am taking it to a local mechanic I know is good but when sourcing the part they are telling him that there are two kinds one with vehicle dynamic control and one without. What is the difference? He asked me and I am not sure which I have.

 

There should be a switch that tells you what you have.

 

Ok i repalced a bad break booster on my 2003 S60 AWD W/O DSTC and now i am gettiing all 4 breaks are dragging.I am also getting a tapping sound out of the front tires and the breal felt ok for about 1/4 of a mile and then pedal got rock hard and seems like the break are on a small amount.Is there a adjustment on these boosters and i am missing it or is this something else.I have bleed the MC and the lines at the tires and like i said was ok but for a very short time?HELP!!

 

I jsut went threw this there are different amount of connection on booster w/o has 2 and W has 3.If you look at the booster you will be able to see the difference and the amount.

 

Is the seal still on the back of the master cylinder?
Can you hear a vacuum leak at the back of the master with the car running?

 

will it always be the booster or can it be the check ball