Good, I'm glad I invested in the right stuff.
I am still wondering if 2 drains&fills are better then just 1?

 

it is better than one but it depends on your patience and available time...

If you have the money and time by all means, do a drain and fill, run it for a week let it mix up, and then do another one...

I personally swear by cutting the transmission cooler line and installing an in-line filter to help keep the ATF clean, but some people choose not to go this route..

http://www.emergingent.com/subpage1Magnefine.htm

 

That's interesting. It was my belief that my 2001 S60 5 automatic had NO tranny filter.

 

It does not have a filter that can be replaced.
He is saying to add an inline filter to it.

 

Especially in the case of that 5 speed seeing as it does not have a serviceable filter I would put the in-line

I did it on my s80 (which has a serviceable filter) but I find this a much easier prospect than dropping the pan each time...
All it took me was a good pair of snips and a 1/4" drive ratchet (you could use a screwdriver i guess but i prefer the ratchet)

That said, measure well BEFORE you cut, once you do it.. there is no going back

 

I appreciate this advice. However, can you clear up what you mean by "dropping the pan"?

Also, does this inline filter vary by model?

 

Dropping the pan would mean taking off the transmission pan to drain the fluid and change the serviceable filter in my S80....

if you are unsure of what I mean, see my post on the s80 forum.. its a big one

https://volvoforums.com/forum/showth...t=transmission


Concerning the filter, all Volvo use 3/8" lines as far as I know.. so does my honda so thats convenient..

 

Check your owner's manual, especially towards the back where it has pages of "specs". I cannot speak to your year/model (mine's an 06) but if you search here you'll see way too many trans stories to want to take a chance on generic or wrong type fluid. Most use a specific type (shared with Toyota, for what that's worth these days) with a Mobil spec number others have posted.

Brown and burnt = change it. The procedure isn't a power flush (no matter what lying dealer wants to sell you) but a drain, fill, drive; repeat drain, fill,drive; and repeat drain fill, drive, procedure that gets rid of most of the old fluid and replaces it with new. As often told here, the manual draining doesn't drain most of the fluid which hides up in the torque converter, so the need to do it as stated above. The driving mixes old & new, the next drain gets rid of 1/3 of that mix, etc. If you add it up, you're draining it 3 x, and filling it 3 x before the job is done. Not cheap due to amount of fluid required, but well worth it for insurance purposes. A new trans is way more expensive.

Curiously, Honda recommends the same no power flush; drain, refill, repeat procedure, at least for its 5 speed auto trannys.

 

thanks for all this "FREE" advice. I have my work cutout for me. When the temp rises about 30 degrees so my hands are not frozen, I'll get to work.

 

Always do more than one.

If you only do one you are replacing only 3/7th of the fluid in there. The mathematically further drain and fills replace less progressively since you are now replacing some of the "new" fluid and some of the "old".

12 quarts is enough for about 3 to 4 drain and fills. Do it at the same time, run the car around the block to remix the fluids, and do two more D and F's while you have the equipment there to do it.

Then you are good to go for two years or so.

Cheap insurance.

 

Would a quick ride around the block be sufficient?

 

As I said before:

Just run it around the block. The torque converter oil will mix with the pan fluid completely.

It only takes a minute.

Keep it simple and don't over think a simple thing. The goal is to refresh the trans fluid friction modifiers, a drain and fill a couple of times accomplishes that safely.

use Mobil 3309 or Toyota T1V

replace what you drain out and move on to other things.

I have 128K on my S60 and the trans shifts flawlessly. Been doing yearly drain and fills for 4 years and 85K (bought car used).

 

Hey All,

I know I am new here, but I have been reading several posts on the ATF. More so, what to use in the car. I have a 2000 S40 with 88k and I want to do the ATF fluid in it. As far as I know, it uses Dexron, so I am going to drain and refill the AFT with Mobil One. Had good luck with it in the past. Also, there is no AT filter to change from what I can tell. Still trying to figure that one out...

Coming from the Audi/VW realm, I have those cars down to a fine science. The fluids are easy to figure out and the service is pretty straight forward, even on the "Lifetime" transmissions.

Since Volvo does not have as many enthusiasts and sites, they are harder figure out.

I have read several Volvo posts and talked to a few shops as well as dealers.

There have been a lot of different answers, but a few things tend to be repeating.

Here is generally what I get on it after talking to several different sources in each category:


Dealer:

We will sell you the most expensive thing we have.

Dont service it at all. It will stop working and a new one is $5400.

We will give you 3309 spec fluid, even if it kills your car.

Never buy a non-Volvo fluid for anything, it will void the warranty.

OK, on the last one, totally wrong per Magnusson Moss, unless you do use the wrong fluid, like Type F where 3309 is needed, gravel in the crankcase, etc..


Part places:

Buy this, is it ok.

I dunno, I think so, its red.

Naw man, use redline, it work in anything.


Indy shops:

Check the dipstick, if it says use a "Special Fluid" OEM or a 3309 is required, If it is blank but for a part number, use Dexron III or highter, Mobile One is ok.

If its red, it should be Dexron on your car, if yellowish, its OEM or a 3309 compatible.


Has anyone else had results like this? I know my car is older and a bit prior to the 3309 timeframe, but does anyone else has similar results form a morning camped on the phone??


Mark

 

Make it simple:

if the trans in the S40 is a 5 speed auto, it is a Aisin Warner tranmission. You never mentioned engine but I am guessing it's the 2.4. Look in your owners manual, it will tell you the type fluid used.

It takes ONLY JWS 3309, available from the Dealer, Toyota Dealer called T1V, or Mobil 3309.

Only the S80's used Dexron or pre 99 models.

Using Mobil 1 ATF is the wrong fluid for your car

Drain and fill twice, do it two years from now. Case closed.

 

Its the 1.9T. And more investigation has confirmed its Dexron. There was a sticker in the book, like an addition on the part of the page where it specs the Dexron ATF. The original page specs Dexron. I stopped in at a different dealer and they had the decals that go in the owner's manual. Same thing for that year and car, Dexron and the decal only corrected a typo.

The original source of my confusion was rooted in the manual, which was teh first place I looked. I didnt expect it to use Dexron, and the first couple sources I contacted said not to rely on the manual for the car. Talking more to him made me realise he was talking about MY01 cars and newer, which did use an AW transmission.

 

Could you help me with this?


I drive a Volvo 2003 S60 with 70K miles. I recently took it into the shop to get a transmission flush. They assured me that they used the proper synthetic fluids. About 2 weeks after I had work done my engine light came on, the caution light as well, and a message that read "Transmission Service Required". I also noticed that the gears were slipping creating a bit of a thud and decrease in speed. My concern is that the work they did may have caused problems but when I took it back to them they plugged in the cpu and it read 00700 and 00740 which is to the transmission. I am now worried that I shouldnt be driving it and also that I am going to need to have expensive work done on my Transmission. Any advice or mechanical knowledge you may lend. my email is berrymcb@gmail.com and my name is Blake.

 

I would try an immediate flush with a 3309 type fluid. Do it yourself or you supply the fluid to the mech. who does the work. It's a lot cheaper than a new trans. and you know the correct fluid is in it.

 

the proper fluid is NOT synthetic. Mobil 3309, the Volvo fluid and Toyota T1V are NOT synthetic. Ask them what they used. It must conform to (not to be confused with compatible with) JWS 3309 oil specification. If not they used the wrong fluid. You deal with that as you may.

P 0700 = EATX (Electronic Automatic Transmission Communication) Controller DTC Present. = An automatic transmission input DTC has been set in the transmission controller.
P 0740 = Torque Converter Clutch. No RPM Drop at Lockup. = Relationship between engine speed and vehicle speed indicates no torque converter clutch engagement.

I have a high level of confidence that getting the old fluid out, and putting in the PROPER fluid will fix your problem.

I had a Dodge Neon years ago and put Dexron in it, bad move, and as soon as I changed it out to the proper ATF +3 mopar fluid, it shifted fine for the last 4 years of it's life.
There is no question that using a Dexron/Mercon type fluid instead of the proper JWS fluid can throw a check trans light and give shifting problems. Again, the first question to ask is what fluid they put in your car. I would never do a flush, only a drain and fill anyway.

 

Blake............I just sent you an email about your problem. I suspect your repair shop used the incorrect fluid. It's not synthetic fluid........you must use the Volvo brand fluid (expensive) or the Mobile 3309 fluid or your transmission can be damaged. My email has some details on what I recommend you do about this, especially if you did not get the flush from a Volvo Dealer.

 

Fred, did you ever locate a "photo essay" here somewhere complete with photos for a visual aid in doing the tranny drain&fill?