Fellow Volvo enthusiasts: my dilemma: 2001 S60 2.4L non turbo
The check engine light came on so I had my local mechanic put the diagnostic reader to it 4 days ago and the code evaluated to a catalytic converter issue, prob needs a new one. He quoted me about $1500 for the job using a volvo oem converter. I almost passed out. I called around and found Eastern company which sells one for $400-5yr warranty.

Should I go for this one?
Also the mechanic reset the code and so far the "check engine" light has NOT come back on. I wonder about this?

 

Buy your own code reader ~ $100 and pull your codes whenever CES comes on. Not to keep your mechanic hones (although it wouldn't hurt) but to get a better understanding of what's going on and what possibly triggers the CES. I had a very similar problem with my other car about 2 weeks ago, turned out to be "too good of the fuel" Once my wife stopped using premium gas no more engine light no more problems. BTW I was ready to replace the cat as well. Try seafoaming first - supposedly no harm to the cat & could be beneficial to the rest of the engine/performance.

 

The Cat being bad in most cases will not throw a code there a many guys with turbos that empty out the Cat with no issues.But a bad O2 sensor will throw one for sure. Getting a code reader is the way to go for sure.Also im not sure how handy you are but swapping out a Cat is a few hours in the drive way.Before you go and Buy a new one call around to local Junk yards and see if you can pick one up. The Cat for your car is the same for years 01-06 http://www.swedishautoparts.com/S60/...ust-parts.html.

 

Wow, the CAT for that site still runs you up a $grand. If I do have to replace it, the $400 Eastern brand sounds good. There is confusion because you said the CAT won't throw a code but O2 sensor will. I could never do a CAT replace job, but is O2 sensor job do-able for someone who does oil and trans changes?

Autozone will do a code check as a courtesy, so far the check engine light has behaved itself.
I bought a can of Seafoam to dump into my gas tank, can't hurt.

 

1st, what code exactly?

2nd, injectors a possibility.

3rd, that Seafoam is fine in the tank, but these guys probably want you to do it through the intake, may not help.

 

Just had to replace my catalytic converter on my 99 volvo s80. the dealership quoted me $3,200 to replace the converter ($1,500 for the part) plus 2 O2 sensors.

I called a foreign car mechanic that I noticed by my work b/c his lot is always packed with volvos, BMWs, etc. I asked him if he would install one of the cheaper converters I found online. He said no way. He said he would only do it 2 ways: 1) new volvo converter OR 2) a used volvo converter.

It is "illegal" to reuse a converter but he said he does it all the time because he thinks that law is BS. He guarantees the converter for 2 years. SO, I had him fix it with a used volvo converter (around 70,000 miles) and 2 new Bosch 02 sensors for under $1,000 total including labor.

It has only been a few weeks but my car is running great so far (knock on wood).

 

I have a 2004 S60 that needs a new cat. engine light on did not pass inspection. Was told that a universal cat could be used. Then hear that for the Volvo the universal can not be used..Which is it

 

I found a MUCH cheaper cat convrtr online for around $500. It pays to shop around

 

Here in San Diego, all cars in the junk yard have their cats removed cuz they say it's illegal to sell used cat. conv. Would an after market cat. not throw any DTCs?

 

My CEL has been coming on intermitantly for about two years now, usually triggered by around town driving. Both times I've had the codes read by a mechanic it was one of the catalytic sensors (of course I would need to take out a loan for the prices they have quoted). Most shops recommend replacing the catalytic, but how does one know if the sensor itself is bad?

If I replace the sensors, and the code returns, can I transfer the sensors to a new (aftermarket) catalytic?

I live in California so I need a CA approved catalytic if I buy one. I have the ability to jack the car, but not to weld. Meineke Muffler gave me a reasonable price -about 70% of what the other shops want. Any thoughts on Meineke?

The car has 145,000 miles on it. The gas cap is new (OEM), I have used sea-foam in the tank and replaced the spark plugs and the light still came back on. It is a 2001 2.4T version.

 

The sensor they are talking about is the 02 sensor. The cat has No sensor in it. The O2 sensor screws in to it. The reason most time the Cel will come on is that when the Cat goes there is more Air flowing threw the downpipe and this triggers the CEL. If i were you replace the 02 sensor $100 or so and if that does not work find a 45drgree spacer and this should fix the problem. I drive and never have a Cel with a DownPipe with No Cat at all I have a 3" OBX catless downpipe. I use a 45degree spacer. This is what i am using 42 Draft Designs O2 Sensor Spacer, Downpipes, Exhausts, 42 Draft Designs Products & Other Performance Aftermarket Auto Parts - North American Motorsports

 

I read on another forum somewhere somene replaced the catalytic and sensors and still had the same problem. They cleaned the air flow sensor and it solved the problem. I cleaned mine (in the air cleaner housing) with Goof-off and a stainless brush. I've driven about 800 miles now and it is starting to look like the light is going to stay off.

 

The check engine light came back on after some stop and go driving the other day. I was hoping cleaning the MAF sensor was going to solve it.

One last thing to try before getting the catalytic and sensor replaced. Putting Lucas High Mileage additive back in. It makes the oil thicker. I recently changed it out. I am wondering if the thicker oil restores combustion efficiency on my 2.4 turbo with 145,000 miles on it

 

the only sensor in the cat is an O2 sensor
they cant read the condition of the cat itself
this guy is trying to scam you for shure
ive never ever seen a bad cat and ive seen a lot of rly bad cars

 

i live in oklahoma so we dont have inspections. is there any harm in running a t5 v50 with bad cat? i would hate to drop 3 grand on a cat if i didnt have to.

also is there a way to turn off the CEL for a bad cat?

 

Hi everyone. I have a 2009 v50 non turbo. I have taken my car to a official Volvo dealership who ran a diagnostic test at my request for an engine check light and returned the fault code ECM4201. It says on my report that they had traced this to a faulty catalytic converter and quoted me $2850 to instal a new one. I have declined their offer as my brother is a mechanic and said it was a bit excessive. I have just purchased online the correct part (verified by Volvo Australia) number 8603597 from The USA for about $1300 and have a quote to instal for about $150. After reading the above posts I'm am worried that maybe it's a sensor and not the Cat Con. Surely the official Dealership wouldn't make that error and by tracing the fault, they mean they actually confirm it was the cat con and not the sensors?

 

4201 is almost always a bad cat. If there is no leakage in the exhaust, its most likely a bad cat. Their quote is way off. Labor is only about 1.5 hours.

 

My bf is an engineering tech for Volvo diesel, after fixing everything on my 2002 s60, it has come down to the catalytic converter on his diagnostic machine. I'm getting astronomical prices for the parts, 02 was just changed. What is a reasonable price for this part, the car is blue book value at $22k but I love my car and can't afford a new one anyway. I'm babying it til income tax time but the local dealer quoted me $1400 just for the part from Volvo and then $860 from somewhere else, then labor. My bf is going to install it but I just thought I'd see if I can get a cheaper deal on the parts. Any thoughts or advice would be helpful! Thanks!

 

Before spending all that money, go to auto parts store and buy a Dorman 42009 spark plug fouler and add one to the rear o2 sensor.

 

I'd be suspicious about the converter being bad. I'd look for other possible faults first - or get somebody to pull the codes for you and post to the board for comments. I'd start by looking at other more typical problems - o2 sensors for starters - if you wind up getting a new cat, you'll also be told you need new sensors - so just do them first. Also inspect the sensor heads - they should be a brownish gray not oily black. Try cleaning your MAF. Check for any vacuum leaks/plumbing type issues. Does the car consume any oil (typically cats go bad when an engine runs rich or burns oil). Have the plugs/wires/coils been serviced in recent memory? Do you have any start/idle issues?