Oil Recommendations S60 50 K mi
#1
10-24-2005, 10:48 PM
Oil Recommendations S60 50 K mi
Hello all!
My 2002 Volvo S60 has just hit the 50,000 mile mark. The previous owner used regular engine oil. I am wondering if I should switch to synthetic ( Mobile 1 ). Any suggestions?
Also can anyone help with chain store oil change reccomendations :::: If you absolutly had to use a chain store ( jiffy lube, Wal Mart ) etc for oil changes... which would you choose?
My 2002 Volvo S60 has just hit the 50,000 mile mark. The previous owner used regular engine oil. I am wondering if I should switch to synthetic ( Mobile 1 ). Any suggestions?
Also can anyone help with chain store oil change reccomendations :::: If you absolutly had to use a chain store ( jiffy lube, Wal Mart ) etc for oil changes... which would you choose?
#2
10-25-2005, 03:56 PM
RE: Oil Recommendations S60 50 K mi
Hi there.
Engine oil questions always bring out lots of strong & differing views from forum members, so be prepared!
Personally I always use the best fully synthetic oil that I can afford, currently Mobil 1 0W40 with SuperSyn. I drive at least 30,000 miles a year, including London & M25 traffic in a whole range of ambient temperatures, probably similar to driving conditions in NYC. Have never had an engine or critical part of an engine wear out or fail (including turbo) & I'm no slouch on the throttle when conditions allow.
Whichever type of oil you use, ensure it meets the recommended specification shown in your owner's manual and fit a new oil filter at every oil change.
I always flush the engine when I change the oil, to clear out sludge deposits & varnish & keep those bearings, oil ways & breather pipes clear.
My philosophy is to spend a little extra at oil change time in order to save money on fuel & huge repair bills!
Not familiar with work/product standards of U.S. garages, other forum members will have advice I'm sure.
Regards.
BB
Engine oil questions always bring out lots of strong & differing views from forum members, so be prepared!
Personally I always use the best fully synthetic oil that I can afford, currently Mobil 1 0W40 with SuperSyn. I drive at least 30,000 miles a year, including London & M25 traffic in a whole range of ambient temperatures, probably similar to driving conditions in NYC. Have never had an engine or critical part of an engine wear out or fail (including turbo) & I'm no slouch on the throttle when conditions allow.
Whichever type of oil you use, ensure it meets the recommended specification shown in your owner's manual and fit a new oil filter at every oil change.
I always flush the engine when I change the oil, to clear out sludge deposits & varnish & keep those bearings, oil ways & breather pipes clear.
My philosophy is to spend a little extra at oil change time in order to save money on fuel & huge repair bills!
Not familiar with work/product standards of U.S. garages, other forum members will have advice I'm sure.
Regards.
BB
#3
10-25-2005, 06:55 PM
RE: Oil Recommendations S60 50 K mi
What is the process that you follow to "flush" an engine?
R.
R.
ORIGINAL: Black Beauty T4
Hi there.
Engine oil questions always bring out lots of strong & differing views from forum members, so be prepared!
Personally I always use the best fully synthetic oil that I can afford, currently Mobil 1 0W40 with SuperSyn. I drive at least 30,000 miles a year, including London & M25 traffic in a whole range of ambient temperatures, probably similar to driving conditions in NYC. Have never had an engine or critical part of an engine wear out or fail (including turbo) & I'm no slouch on the throttle when conditions allow.
Whichever type of oil you use, ensure it meets the recommended specification shown in your owner's manual and fit a new oil filter at every oil change.
I always flush the engine when I change the oil, to clear out sludge deposits & varnish & keep those bearings, oil ways & breather pipes clear.
My philosophy is to spend a little extra at oil change time in order to save money on fuel & huge repair bills!
Not familiar with work/product standards of U.S. garages, other forum members will have advice I'm sure.
Regards.
BB
Hi there.
Engine oil questions always bring out lots of strong & differing views from forum members, so be prepared!
Personally I always use the best fully synthetic oil that I can afford, currently Mobil 1 0W40 with SuperSyn. I drive at least 30,000 miles a year, including London & M25 traffic in a whole range of ambient temperatures, probably similar to driving conditions in NYC. Have never had an engine or critical part of an engine wear out or fail (including turbo) & I'm no slouch on the throttle when conditions allow.
Whichever type of oil you use, ensure it meets the recommended specification shown in your owner's manual and fit a new oil filter at every oil change.
I always flush the engine when I change the oil, to clear out sludge deposits & varnish & keep those bearings, oil ways & breather pipes clear.
My philosophy is to spend a little extra at oil change time in order to save money on fuel & huge repair bills!
Not familiar with work/product standards of U.S. garages, other forum members will have advice I'm sure.
Regards.
BB
#4
10-26-2005, 07:27 AM
RE: Oil Recommendations S60 50 K mi
I do oil changes myself and over the years have settled on the following method:
Get engine up to normal operating temperature, switch off & add flushing agent via the oil filler cap - Wynn's is the product I have found to be the most effective. Re-start engine & vary revs between 1,000 & 2,000 (max) for 15 minutes but do not drive the car. Drain engine oil (careful, extremely hot) for at least 15 minutes to get as much oil & crud out as possible. Re-fit sump plug using a new washer & tighten to specified torque.
Change oil filter element (special cup filter socket recommended to remove & re-fit plastic housing without risking damage) noting where the old sealing ring was fitted on the plastic housing. Clean out plastic housing, remove old sealing ring & fit new sealing ring (supplied with the oil filter paper cartridge), remembering to lube the new sealing ring with a little clean engine oil before sliding it over the thread onto the plastic filter housing. Fit new oil filter element & tighten plastic housing to specified torque.
Re-fill engine with (my preference) Mobil 1 0W40 with SuperSyn to half way between marks on oil dipstick. Re-start engine (don't gun it), ensure that oil pressure warning light goes out after a few seconds, idle for up to a minute then switch off. Allow at least 5 minutes for oil to settle, ensure no leaks at sump drain plug and oil filter housing, then re-check oil level on dipstick & top-up as necessary, to allow for the drop in oil level that will have occurred (caused by filter housing etc. filling up when engine started). Dispose of used engine oil & filter in an environmentally friendly way (we have recycling centres, sure you do too).
If servicing car for friend/family & engine has never been flushed, I would consider using a flushing oil - a thin temporary oil containing lots of detergents etc. Basically you warm up & drain the old oil then replace sump plug without changing the filter yet. Re-fill with flushing oil to normal oil level mark on dipstick, then run the engine (again, don't drive the car) at the revs & for the time specified on the flushing oil's can. Then switch off & follow same procedure from draining onwards as above.
Depending on how dirty/sludged up the engine is to start with, you should find that after 2 or 3 oil changes where flushing has been carried out, the oil on the dipstick looks almost as clean after 5,000 miles as it did when it was put in the engine.
Wynn's likely to cost around $5 I guess Reg, flushing oil costs a little more.
BB
Get engine up to normal operating temperature, switch off & add flushing agent via the oil filler cap - Wynn's is the product I have found to be the most effective. Re-start engine & vary revs between 1,000 & 2,000 (max) for 15 minutes but do not drive the car. Drain engine oil (careful, extremely hot) for at least 15 minutes to get as much oil & crud out as possible. Re-fit sump plug using a new washer & tighten to specified torque.
Change oil filter element (special cup filter socket recommended to remove & re-fit plastic housing without risking damage) noting where the old sealing ring was fitted on the plastic housing. Clean out plastic housing, remove old sealing ring & fit new sealing ring (supplied with the oil filter paper cartridge), remembering to lube the new sealing ring with a little clean engine oil before sliding it over the thread onto the plastic filter housing. Fit new oil filter element & tighten plastic housing to specified torque.
Re-fill engine with (my preference) Mobil 1 0W40 with SuperSyn to half way between marks on oil dipstick. Re-start engine (don't gun it), ensure that oil pressure warning light goes out after a few seconds, idle for up to a minute then switch off. Allow at least 5 minutes for oil to settle, ensure no leaks at sump drain plug and oil filter housing, then re-check oil level on dipstick & top-up as necessary, to allow for the drop in oil level that will have occurred (caused by filter housing etc. filling up when engine started). Dispose of used engine oil & filter in an environmentally friendly way (we have recycling centres, sure you do too).
If servicing car for friend/family & engine has never been flushed, I would consider using a flushing oil - a thin temporary oil containing lots of detergents etc. Basically you warm up & drain the old oil then replace sump plug without changing the filter yet. Re-fill with flushing oil to normal oil level mark on dipstick, then run the engine (again, don't drive the car) at the revs & for the time specified on the flushing oil's can. Then switch off & follow same procedure from draining onwards as above.
Depending on how dirty/sludged up the engine is to start with, you should find that after 2 or 3 oil changes where flushing has been carried out, the oil on the dipstick looks almost as clean after 5,000 miles as it did when it was put in the engine.
Wynn's likely to cost around $5 I guess Reg, flushing oil costs a little more.
BB
#5
10-26-2005, 11:16 AM
RE: Oil Recommendations S60 50 K mi
Thanks for the response! I will have to look for this product (Wynns). It is an 'old' name and so I should be able to find it. Years ago flushing an engine meant adding a quart of kerosene and running the engine for a bit prior to draining the oil. It was later found that by doing that, one could easily 'spin' a bearing as a result of the kerosene not being a lubricating agent and it was some what akin to adding some oil to the bearings. I now use Castrol synthetic after about 20 or so years of Mobil 1. My '65 Healey always called for Castrol (of course there was no synthetic back then) and BMW also uses Castrol (under their own label). I really wonder if there is any difference between the two? I suppose it is what we feel most comfortable with. At any rate, I am going to look into the Wynn's product, thanks.
R.
R.
ORIGINAL: Black Beauty T4
I do oil changes myself and over the years have settled on the following method:
Get engine up to normal operating temperature, switch off & add flushing agent via the oil filler cap - Wynn's is the product I have found to be the most effective. Re-start engine & vary revs between 1,000 & 2,000 (max) for 15 minutes but do not drive the car. Drain engine oil (careful, extremely hot) for at least 15 minutes to get as much oil & crud out as possible. Re-fit sump plug using a new washer & tighten to specified torque.
Change oil filter element (special cup filter socket recommended to remove & re-fit plastic housing without risking damage) noting where the old sealing ring was fitted on the plastic housing. Clean out plastic housing, remove old sealing ring & fit new sealing ring (supplied with the oil filter paper cartridge), remembering to lube the new sealing ring with a little clean engine oil before sliding it over the thread onto the plastic filter housing. Fit new oil filter element & tighten plastic housing to specified torque.
Re-fill engine with (my preference) Mobil 1 0W40 with SuperSyn to half way between marks on oil dipstick. Re-start engine (don't gun it), ensure that oil pressure warning light goes out after a few seconds, idle for up to a minute then switch off. Allow at least 5 minutes for oil to settle, ensure no leaks at sump drain plug and oil filter housing, then re-check oil level on dipstick & top-up as necessary, to allow for the drop in oil level that will have occurred (caused by filter housing etc. filling up when engine started). Dispose of used engine oil & filter in an environmentally friendly way (we have recycling centres, sure you do too).
If servicing car for friend/family & engine has never been flushed, I would consider using a flushing oil - a thin temporary oil containing lots of detergents etc. Basically you warm up & drain the old oil then replace sump plug without changing the filter yet. Re-fill with flushing oil to normal oil level mark on dipstick, then run the engine (again, don't drive the car) at the revs & for the time specified on the flushing oil's can. Then switch off & follow same procedure from draining onwards as above.
Depending on how dirty/sludged up the engine is to start with, you should find that after 2 or 3 oil changes where flushing has been carried out, the oil on the dipstick looks almost as clean after 5,000 miles as it did when it was put in the engine.
Wynn's likely to cost around $5 I guess Reg, flushing oil costs a little more.
BB
I do oil changes myself and over the years have settled on the following method:
Get engine up to normal operating temperature, switch off & add flushing agent via the oil filler cap - Wynn's is the product I have found to be the most effective. Re-start engine & vary revs between 1,000 & 2,000 (max) for 15 minutes but do not drive the car. Drain engine oil (careful, extremely hot) for at least 15 minutes to get as much oil & crud out as possible. Re-fit sump plug using a new washer & tighten to specified torque.
Change oil filter element (special cup filter socket recommended to remove & re-fit plastic housing without risking damage) noting where the old sealing ring was fitted on the plastic housing. Clean out plastic housing, remove old sealing ring & fit new sealing ring (supplied with the oil filter paper cartridge), remembering to lube the new sealing ring with a little clean engine oil before sliding it over the thread onto the plastic filter housing. Fit new oil filter element & tighten plastic housing to specified torque.
Re-fill engine with (my preference) Mobil 1 0W40 with SuperSyn to half way between marks on oil dipstick. Re-start engine (don't gun it), ensure that oil pressure warning light goes out after a few seconds, idle for up to a minute then switch off. Allow at least 5 minutes for oil to settle, ensure no leaks at sump drain plug and oil filter housing, then re-check oil level on dipstick & top-up as necessary, to allow for the drop in oil level that will have occurred (caused by filter housing etc. filling up when engine started). Dispose of used engine oil & filter in an environmentally friendly way (we have recycling centres, sure you do too).
If servicing car for friend/family & engine has never been flushed, I would consider using a flushing oil - a thin temporary oil containing lots of detergents etc. Basically you warm up & drain the old oil then replace sump plug without changing the filter yet. Re-fill with flushing oil to normal oil level mark on dipstick, then run the engine (again, don't drive the car) at the revs & for the time specified on the flushing oil's can. Then switch off & follow same procedure from draining onwards as above.
Depending on how dirty/sludged up the engine is to start with, you should find that after 2 or 3 oil changes where flushing has been carried out, the oil on the dipstick looks almost as clean after 5,000 miles as it did when it was put in the engine.
Wynn's likely to cost around $5 I guess Reg, flushing oil costs a little more.
BB
#7
10-27-2005, 05:57 AM
RE: Oil Recommendations S60 50 K mi
Kerosene - haven't heard that one before Reg, but like the analogy to adding sand!
If you're interested, try http://www.wynnsusa.com/distributor.asp to find your nearest distributor.
Yes, engine oil really is a matter of personal choice & experience. I always used Castrol in my bikes & used it in earlier/older cars too & only once had a problem with it (couldn't handle the heat in a modded bike engine, thankfully I noticed slight change in engine responsiveness before it had a chance to blow up, so no major damage/dramas).
I chose Mobil 1 because of its reputation & motor sport development background & it's been great for me so far. Like most manufacturers, Mobil is constantly trying to improve the product to keep pace with engine developments & enviromnental needs such as improved mpg. SuperSyn introduced roughly 2 years ago I think. For a turbo engine (especially hpt) I wouldn't use anything other than a high quality fully synthetic oil but some semi-synthetic blends do meet certain manufacturers' specifications. Castrol has a great reputation & I'd be more than happy to use it if I couldn't get hold of any Mobil!
BB
If you're interested, try http://www.wynnsusa.com/distributor.asp to find your nearest distributor.
Yes, engine oil really is a matter of personal choice & experience. I always used Castrol in my bikes & used it in earlier/older cars too & only once had a problem with it (couldn't handle the heat in a modded bike engine, thankfully I noticed slight change in engine responsiveness before it had a chance to blow up, so no major damage/dramas).
I chose Mobil 1 because of its reputation & motor sport development background & it's been great for me so far. Like most manufacturers, Mobil is constantly trying to improve the product to keep pace with engine developments & enviromnental needs such as improved mpg. SuperSyn introduced roughly 2 years ago I think. For a turbo engine (especially hpt) I wouldn't use anything other than a high quality fully synthetic oil but some semi-synthetic blends do meet certain manufacturers' specifications. Castrol has a great reputation & I'd be more than happy to use it if I couldn't get hold of any Mobil!
BB
#8
10-27-2005, 09:49 AM
RE: Oil Recommendations S60 50 K mi
After my chip mod I have been running the full synthetic, I also changed my trans fluid as well. Before I was running semi, I really didn't notice a difference but I get that warm fuzzy feeling that I have done the right thing. It is only a few bucks more, Just like running 92 or better oct. might cost a couple more bucks but I know it is better for car. As far as brands go I have been using Castrol. I dont know if it is better or worse than any others.
#9
10-28-2005, 04:32 AM
RE: Oil Recommendations S60 50 K mi
Couldn't have put it better myself.
A point worth making is that in Europe motorists tend to run oil for longer than in North America - it's all driven by the company fleet car market here.
Companies want to reduce running costs, so to attract fleet buyers (and to add to their enviro-friendly credentials) the manufacturers are finding ways of extending service intervals. The most obvious way of doing this is to fit bigger capacity sumps & use long life fully synthetic oil. Instantly extended service intervals from 12 months/10,000 miles to 36 months/30,000 miles whichever comes first. And that includes diesels too!
Thankfully my employers have not fully jumped on this bandwagon & insist on 12 months/20,000 miles in order that other items such as brakes can be checked.
For the T4 I use fully synthetic & change the oil every 6 months which equates to around 3,000 miles in winter & 5,000 miles in summer. I drive around 30,000 miles a year in my company car (diesel), yet the T4 gets serviced more frequently!
A point worth making is that in Europe motorists tend to run oil for longer than in North America - it's all driven by the company fleet car market here.
Companies want to reduce running costs, so to attract fleet buyers (and to add to their enviro-friendly credentials) the manufacturers are finding ways of extending service intervals. The most obvious way of doing this is to fit bigger capacity sumps & use long life fully synthetic oil. Instantly extended service intervals from 12 months/10,000 miles to 36 months/30,000 miles whichever comes first. And that includes diesels too!
Thankfully my employers have not fully jumped on this bandwagon & insist on 12 months/20,000 miles in order that other items such as brakes can be checked.
For the T4 I use fully synthetic & change the oil every 6 months which equates to around 3,000 miles in winter & 5,000 miles in summer. I drive around 30,000 miles a year in my company car (diesel), yet the T4 gets serviced more frequently!
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