I was driving my 2001 s60 2.4T today when at a stoplight the car cut off. I did not receive any warning message. The car started right back up but with decreased power at times. Through the next several stoplights the idle was up and down. What could be causing this? I have replaced the MAF in sept of 09 and the Throttle body was replaced on a recall in 06. I just recently around two weeks ago got a check engine light. I had it checked at Advance auto and they could not pin down the problem with their meter. I then went to Oreillys and they said it was a oxygen sensor on bank 1. Could this be the cause of my present problem. All info is appreciated.

 

Hey,
I am not sure if this will help, but a few years ago the same thing would happen to my old 940, and we took it to the mechanic and he found that it was a spark plug that would not provide enough charge and wouldnt work effeciently, and when the rpms went idle the miss fire would shut off the engine. It was a fail safe so that the engine would not damage itself, so maybe you might want to check your spark plugs?...hope this helps

 

I hate to always point to this but I bet it's the throttle body (ETM) again. Even though it was replaced, it is still the same piece of crap that will fail again.

 

Thanks e-volv88 I am disabled and could use all the help I can get.

 

Thanks JP I will need all the help I can get.

 

Hi JP I tried responding to your message but it would not go through for some reason so i just went back to the original post. Thanks for responding. I live in NC a bit far from OK. JP is there a fuse for the cruise control, I did not see it in my owners manual. I also have a error message bulb failure dipped beam. I know this is a headlight but I was wondering can just the bulb be replaced and if so how do you get to it? It is on the passenger side low beam. Jp I just went and started my car which is kept in a garage and the RPM's went crazy. They fluctuated from 700 to 1500 I did not give it any gas and it has been sitting since last friday. Yes I am disabled, I was a plumber for 30 years until I fell down a flight of stairs which caused me to have several operations of the C5,C6,C7 and T1 Vertebrae and now I am disabled on a fixed income. I live alone as my children are grown and my wife left me after the fall since I no longer made good money. I feel the dealer will take advantage of me since the ETM has been replaced before in 08 and that is when they put the software upgrade in. I contacted Volvo of North America and they confirmed I am still under warranty because they extended it to 10 yrs 200,000 miles for this particular problem. I am on a very limited income and I cant see any way around the $89 diagnostic fee they will charge me if it is not the ETM. I really don't have a choice since I have to have my car for at the least Dr's appointments. JP since I just started my car after 5 days and it acted like it did could an O2 sensor cause that type of reaction since the car was cold. I have had several people tell me that it is an O2 sensor but I am assuming they think the car is hot. What do you thimk JP. I appreciate all information you can give me concerning my multiple problems. Thank you mstrplmber

 

First I would like to say thanks to everyone who takes their time to help myself and others. I had my visit to Volvo and was told it was a bad Mass Air Sensor which was replaced for $414.45 of which I had to borrow, because Volvo would not work with me with 2 post dated checks. They charged me $152.00 labor to install this part. Does this sound normal? $244.52 for the MAS and $16.40 for a lowbeam headlight bulb. No labor was charged. The Volvo tech cut the heck out of his finger getting the old bulb out. I had printed off a $20.00 coupon which they honored. Plus tax of $21.53. For the almost half a grand total of $414.45. I had replaced the mass Air Sensor myself in 2008 and the Volvo tech said even though it said Bosch on the part that indeed it was not a Bosch part but a remanufactured Cardone part. I will be contacting the person on Ebay I purchased this part from to see what they say. I kept the old MAS. Well my car is running fine and at least I will be able to make it to my Dr's appointments to discuss yet another surgery on my neck,(this will be the 3rd). Oh by the way the Volvo tech said that once the new ETM is installed with the new software he has seen very few come back with the ETM being the problem. Again thanks for all the advice. mstrplmber

 

Fu@k me. $152 to change the MAF sensor. All you have to do is remove two torx screws unplug it put in new MAF and put the two screws back in. Its a 2 minute job (you dont even need to get your hands dirty). not to mention that you probably could have cleaned the old MAF with carb cleaner as it was probably just dirty and giving false readings.

 

Well In my healthier days I could have plumbed your whole house, but I never learned anything about cars. I thought it was excessive but they wouldn't budge. mstrplmber

 

That is like a licence to print money charging that for one of the most simple jobs you can do to your car. I feel for you mate.

I would write to the dealer stateing that you think you have been grossly overcharged for 5 minutes work. At most i would have thought they would charge you half an hours labour but it looks like they have gone for the whole hour. which just takes the p i s s for such a simple job.

 

Good Idea crespo I think I will write a strongly worded letter. mstrplmber I just finished the letter to the dealership anyone want to put bets that I will get a response. mstrplmber

 

Yes, we have all been screwed by Volvo service departments, as well as parts, insane what prices they charge. My story is same, XC90 suddenly would not crank, had to have it towed home, checked everything as I always do before replacing parts like most independents will do, so we are all trapped between a rock and a hard place. I narrowed problem down, it wasn't the typical bad connection at starter, which I had suffered once before, so checked starter relay, swapped with another relay which was same, not that, obviously checked fuses, not that, checked ignition switch, not that, jumped the relay starter and got it to crank, so that verified starter was good, and having run out of options, I tried the halo ring which was least costly and next to last potential problem, not that. So now disgusted, I had to have vehicle towed to dealer at over $250. given I am not close to dealer, they came to same conclusion I had, it was key transmitter and why I had to have vehicle towed, they have to code new key to vehicle. SICK.

Here is the real killer, it took Volvo of Hudson Valley over a month to get it in shop to diagnose, then they said it was the key transmitter as I had diagnosed. They had to order new key from Sweden, can you imagine this BS, another two weeks, so I was out of vehicle for two months total, never mind two tows for over $400. all over a key transmitter going bad. The worst news was the bill from Volvo, $412, for a basic no remote key with programming, now how SICK is that for a key when you can buy remote keys and match to car for under $50. from local locksmiths. Live and learn, try to avoid these STEALERS at all cost. And the point of this post is to expose these RIPOFF dealers, name them to warn people, that is how you can get even with these crooks, and of course, educating others on forums like this. Sad that many will post a problem, and no one takes the time to answer as to what solved problem, to many open ended posts with no solutions.