I am writing this post because there has kind of been a little debate lately about timing belts and the service intervals.[/align]The post is to show why the timing belt should really be changed at about 70,000 miles instead of 105,000 like Volvo says it should be.[/align]Also Make sure you replace the tensioner and idler pulleys as well.[/align]I have some pics of belts I have replaced at work on cars.[/align]I have the belts from a few of the different models the milage will vary between 70K and 80K. You will see how the belts crack at that milage. [/align]I would not trust the belts like that on my own car. That's why I am making this post so that everyone is informed about the belts and what can happen if they break.[/align][/align]I know not everyone has the money always to get the job done. I know how it is I have 4 kids and very little money. But the point I am trying to make is that it is better to pay between $700.00 to $800.00 or so. Rather than having to Junk the car or pay over $3000.00 to get the head rebuilt or replaced. Or maybe even more to have a new motor installed.[/align][/align]I have my own theory on why they go bad faster on the 1999 and newer cars than on the older cars.[/align][/align]I think it is because of how the timing covers are made.[/align]The older cars all the heat that gets to the timing belt only comes from the front of the motor.[/align][/align]The 1999 and newer cars the timing cover are different because of having the VVT valve in the cam cover. That allows all the heat from the top of the motor to access the timing belt and add more heat to that area causing the belt to go bad faster.[/align][/align]On the 1993 to 1998 5 cylinders and 1994 to 1998 6 cylinders the timing belts could last a lot long but I wouldn't trust them either.[/align]But that's my theory.[/align][/align]Now onto the pictures the first batch will be the timing belt pictures with the model,year and milage that they were changed.[/align]Then the last batch of pictures will be an idler and tensioner pulley from a S80.(Not as bad as I wanted for an example picture but will work.[/align]Then finally a picture of an engine that had the belt break.[/align][/align]This way everyone has an Idea of the entire situation.[/align]Then you can make your own decisions from here.[/align][/align]The first belt is from a 2000 S80 with 72,623 miles[/align][/align][/align]The second belt is from a 2003 S40 with 73,746 miles[/align][/align][/align]The last one is from a 2001 V70 with 82,700 miles[/align][/align][/align][/align]Here is a tensioner if you look closely in one spot you will see where grease started coming out of the bearing.[/align][/align][/align]Here is the idler same here both sides were spinning grease out.[/align][/align][/align]If your serpentine belt looks like this replace it I have seen them break as well and get sucked into the engine and break the timing belt as well.[/align][/align][/align]So there is my post the pics might not be the best but should help some.[/align]
Sorry here are the pics of the head and block.

 

Thanks Tech. My S60 has 77K on it. I'm going to order the pieces from FCP and have it installed soon.

 

I did mine today. Belt, tensioner and idler. It is an easy job, about 2.5 hours on garage floor. You do need an impact gun and a gear puller to get the balancer off.
Hardest part is gettting the accessory belt back on.

 

Note for next time once the crank pulley nut is off. Hit the pulley with a heavy rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer sealed in rubber and it will come loose.

 

Has anybody seen the timing belt kits that are available on e-bay for between $110 - $140? Are these kits the same quality that you would get if you had a certified volvo shop do the timing belt? Any info would be great. Thanks.

 

If it is a Conti belt you should be fine.

 

The kit from FCP on Ebay(auction # 280192964637) are all first rate parts. Conti belt with oem or at least German tensioner and idler.

 

In addition to a ' 99 S80, we also have an '01 S60 with 98,000 miles. A week ago, we heard a high pitch whining sound and the engine began to rough idle and even cut out a couple of times. We took the car in for service (Volvo repair shop) and they indicated that the Mass Air Flow Meter needed to be changed, plus they cleaned the throttle body and replaced the gasket. Now a week later, we are getting the same high pitch whining sound, rough idle and engine cut out a couple times. During the recent service call, they checked the belts.

Could this be a timing belt issue? And, should they change the belt, tensioner and idler pulleys? The car had been rough idling before but we attributed some of this to minor problems that we began to experience after the dealer upgraded the throttle body software but not the hardware. Even our Volvo repair shop, who works closely with a local Volvo dealer, indicated that the hardware should be replaced under the recall.

My '99 S80 was experiencing rough idle prior to the timing belt recently being replaced. Is it standard for the mechanics to check the tensioner and idler pulleys? I now am having them replace the transmission for several thousand dollars.

We love both cars, but the problems seem to be getting worse.

 

I would have the pulleys looked at closely.
If there is grease coming out of them have them replaced.
Does the noise only happen first thing in the morning or after teh car has been sitting for a long time?
Then go away when it warms up?

 

The noise only happens after the car is driven for about 30+ miles after sitting either overnight or for a couple of hours or more. We have no trouble with running the car in the morning nor for short trips less than 30 miles. Once we get past 25 to 30 miles, the high whining sound starts and the car begins to experience rough idling and, on occasion, will actually stall when we stop at a light.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

Any check engine light?

 

Hi tech,

I'm going to get my timing belt and spark plugs changed (I have 92k mi on my 02 S60, bought it at 75k mi and not sure it it was changed before). The dealer is telling me that they're using a Volvo test equipment or software something whenever they replace the spark plugs to optimize the engines performance, is that critical, or can I have both jobs done at other repair shops that do Volvos?

regards,
aldrin

 

Hi, Tech.

Sorry for the delay in responding. On the 2001 S60, when the engine makes the whining sound, the "check engine" light is not on. However, the car starts to surge at times and the engine will actually stall when we slowdown to turn or park, as well as when we stop. If we run the A/C, these symptoms seem to occur sooner than 30 miles. When the Mass Air Flow sensor was replaced, they also performed a 100,000 mile service (98,404 miles).

On my '99 S80, I have recently had the transmission replaced, timing belt replaced, new hoses installed, 60,000 mile service (car has 144,971 miles), replaced all tires to resolve STC issue, had the throttle body cleaned (but not replaced), etc. In short, I have had a lot of work done during the past two months. Now that I get the car back after another two weeks in the shop, the "check engine" light is on with no error messages. Yet, like the S60, the car will surge at times and the car experiences rough idling after 30 to 50 miles or sooner if I run the A/C. In addition, at times after I get gas, the car will stall when I first start after putting in the gas.

The only difference between both cars is that my S80 does not make a whining sound like the S60. All codes were cleared during recent servicing and the check engine light was reset.

Could it be that the throttle body needs to be replaced on both cars? They were cleaned and the software upgrades were performed. Or, could this be a problem due to the Oxygen sensors needing to be replaced? Since the original codes were cleared (i.e. emmisons system related) these codes do not come up, however, the "check engine" light still comes on on the S80.

Thanks. If you can shed any light on what directions I might consider we would greatly appreciate it. I have spent a lot of money during the past two months on the S80 (7k+) and a much smaller amount on the S60.

 

Very possible the ETM'S need to be replaced.

 

What about years of age vs. miles.

I just bought an S40, 2004 with 24,000. at the rate I drive the car will be close to 10 years old by the time I turn 70G. Is it OK to wait that long to change the belt, or should I change it after a certain # of years?

thanks.

 

Usually it is just as many years as the milage. 7 years 70K miles.
But I would have it inspect during oil changes.

 

I know this doesn't pertain to the lead thread, but this is for the reply of the member complaining of engine sound. I have a 2001 Volvo S60 with 98,300 miles on it. Last year it was making a loud annoying sound after driving about 25 miles or less on it. Many times it would stall at a stop light & the noise would occur even sooner if we had the A/C on. The resolution to my problem was a clogged PCV valve or what some people call the "breather box", "vent box" or "fire box". What you have to do to verify if it is this problem, is when you hear the noise again, open the hood & remove the oil dipstick. You will hear a hissing sound coming from the vacuum that was created in the engine. You can also place your finger near the dipstick hole & feel the suction. If you experience this, then replace the "breather box". I had my Volvo dealer do it & it was about $250 including labor. Important note! This only applies to the non-turbo 2001 S60. Hope this extra info helps also good info to know for future 2001 S60 owners. Good Luck!

 

could a bad timing belt be the cause of a vibration while accelerating?

 

I have never seen it cause a vibration.

 

just bought a 01 S60 with 98k on it. So i need to do the timing belt and tensioners. Can i do the job myself or is it too difficult a task for a do it yourselfer. Also, should i replace the water pump and plugs while im doing this?

Thanks