Either kit should be find. Your car does not have plug wires. But inspect the coils good.

 

Thanks, so there are no replaceable boots on the coils? (on my MB each coil has a boot and a wire, each coil fires 2 cylinders) I assume then that I have 5 coils directly mounted to the spark plugs?

 

Yes you have 5 coils. The boots come with the coils.

 

Volvo owner's manual indiactes 120k for the type 52 engine timing belt. Volvo Service rep also tells me no water pump needed. Is it possible that we are getting a little paranoid about timing belts? Will we eventually be replacing them at half their usable life if we continue to pre-empt the interval?

Why would the VOLVO shop tell me 120K?

 

If you want to wait that long you can. I made this post because I have seen to many people have to pay over 2K for engine repairs due to belt or one of the pulleys coming apart. They were way before what Volvo says they should have been done at.

I do not think they took into consideration how much heat the coils added to the top of the motor as well as the motor itself. Then all the heat is channeled right into the timing belt area.

 

My '01 s60 2.3, at 91,000miles (I know, I know...) idles pretty high (~700rpm) and bust up to damn near 2000 under modest acceleration through 1st and 2nd.

I bought it about 3 weeks ago for $4k (needs minor body work, decent maintenance history, leather is in poor shape). I filled it up full and even though pittsburgh has too many hills I've noticed it's really not doing too well in terms of gas mileage. I added a fuel detergent to clean out the in injector heads so that might help after I finish off this tank- I just had new tires and front-end alignment done so that shouldn't be bringing me down, unless the tires REALLY need to get broken in. The tranny was replaced about 20k miles ago, so I'm assuming it has the new software, although I think I need a fluid flush as it shifts sluggishly on hills.

My question is - I don't think the timing belt and pulleys have ever been replaced. I'm don't have the right tools (read: any tools) to get at this myself, so I feel like I'm going to be charged an arm and a leg to get this done.

Could this be affecting my gas mileage? Should I just get it replaced anyway to avoid future damage?

 

It will not affect fuel milage.
But if it has never been done I would do it soon.

 

New to forum. Have 2001 Volvo S80, 78K miles. Had whining noise during excelaration. Took to Volvo service dealer and told that needed to replace timing belt, idler bearing and serpentine belt tensioner. Quoted $1300. On very tight budget, does this dollar amt seem reasonable?

 

Look up Chilton book time on the R&R of the timing belt and then look at prices of the belt, tension, and idler. If it is a 6 cylinder, you should replace the thermostat when doing the timing belt as well.

 

That price is way to much!

 

FYI.
Well I just finished my timing belt job, heew! Had 2 goes at it as I had to make a counterhold tool to get the damn 30mm pulley nut off. Anyways to my supprise the original (assumed) timing belt and all of its components were in a fantastic shape at 111,189 miles. Last time I changed a belt on my old 850 the tb was also in very good shape. Both of these cars are a non turbo so may be that helps somewhat.

 

Congrats

 

new here, and Im new to volvos.
I just changed the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and idler on my newly acquired 02 s60 2.4T AWD @103K. Parts from IPD.

The old belt was pretty stretched with tiny micro cracks all throughout. This car was not babied, so this old belt took a beating.

Some Tips for the DIY'ers:
1. I did not use a cam locking tool and I did not remove the spark plugs as some have suggested. It will be harder to turn the motor by hand with all the compression yes, but the when the TBelt if off, the cams/crank will want to stay in place.

2. About the annoying 'nub' under the crack pulley, the one that may contribute to beer induced rage fits when trying to put the new belt on. Once the new belt is finally on the crack pulley, I used the 'nub' to help with the rest of the install.
Wedge a piece of wood (like the thick end of a wood shim) in between the nub and the Tbelt on the pulley. Jam it in there so the belt will not come off the crank pulley. No need for extra hands! This helps greatly to install the belt with no slack between the crank pulley and intake cam. (The belt kept slipping around the crank pulley for me).

This site was a big help for me, thanks!

 

Congrats on getting it done!

 

I changed cities recently and today I took my 2001 S60 to a new dealer for its 67,500 service.

The service guy at the new dealer says the timing belt needs to be replaced because of the car's age. I called the service guy at my old dealership and he says the standard is 105,000 or 15 years. Service guy at the new dealership says 105,000 or 7 years. Owner's manual doesn't give any standards except mileage. Reading this thread it sounds like 75-80,000 miles is appropriate.

Both service guys agree that the belt isn't showing any obvious visual signs of wear, but that visual inspection doesn't tell you everything (especially about the tensioner and rollers). It will cost $600 to change the timing belt.

Obviously I don't put a lot of miles on this car. It will likely be another year (or more) until I hit 75,000 miles.

How important is the age versus the mileage? Should I change the timing belt now or wait?

 

I would have them pull the cover and inspect the pulleys.

 

They pulled the cover and his comment was, "it's definitely original and I don't see any obvious trouble, but you never know about the conditions of bearings and you should replace it based on its age alone."

67,500 miles and 9 years old

Would you guys recommend I have them change the timing belt based on age alone?

Does Volvo give any specific guidance on this?

Thanks!

 

I would just do the pulleys and belt and be done with it.
Volvo says 105K on the belt. I have seen a few times in writing that Volvo recommends pulleys at 80K but it has seemed to disappear.

But I have seen bad belts at 50K. But I recommend doing all at 70K to be safe.

 

01 s60 2.3 (no T) @ 99k miles.

It makes a good amount of engine noise, and I've been getting surging and odd RPMs for shifting. This car needs a tranny oil change, which I'm doin with parts I ordered from ipd, but how about this engine noise and surging? I hear a definite rhythmic wobble and some clicking. The serpentine appears to be in great shape and nothing is obviously wrong with the timing belt when I pull the cover.

So, I don't own a harmonic balancer or gear puller and I keep getting quoted ~900 (1/4 what the car is worth) to get it changed. Since its not a turbo, I would guess the belt might have less heat damage, but maybe a pulley has barfed it's grease. Should i splurge before I have to have the head rebuilt, or let it go?

 

You do not need any pullers to remove any pulleys.
The surging might be a dirty throttle body.
I would track the noise down asap.