trunk won't open with remote/release
#1
#3
RE: trunk won't open with remote/release
I'm not sure what year your car is, but if it's 2002 or newer, I think the carwash dudes probably activated the valet lock when they were wiping down the interior of your car. From the owner's manual:
2. Valet lock (trunk lock)
Pressing this switch locks the trunk, even if the doors are unlocked. The trunk will remain locked even if the doors are locked/unlocked using the master key or the remote control.
To use this function: [*]Turn the master key to position II.[*]Press the "Valet lock" button. An LED in the button will light up and "VALET LOCK ON" will be displayed on the text window to indicate that this function is activated.[*]The function can be turned off (deactivated) by turning the ignition key to position II and pressing the "Valet lock" button again (the LED in the button will go out and "VALET LOCK OFF" will be displayed in the text window).
See page 37 of the manual here: http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/...0_02a.htm#pg37
2. Valet lock (trunk lock)
Pressing this switch locks the trunk, even if the doors are unlocked. The trunk will remain locked even if the doors are locked/unlocked using the master key or the remote control.
To use this function: [*]Turn the master key to position II.[*]Press the "Valet lock" button. An LED in the button will light up and "VALET LOCK ON" will be displayed on the text window to indicate that this function is activated.[*]The function can be turned off (deactivated) by turning the ignition key to position II and pressing the "Valet lock" button again (the LED in the button will go out and "VALET LOCK OFF" will be displayed in the text window).
See page 37 of the manual here: http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/...0_02a.htm#pg37
#4
#5
My 2002 S60 trunk button (above Lic. plate) never has worked. I bought this car used in 2006. I was fine using the key fob. That stopped working a few months back. Now I have to use the key. Worse part is my trunk lights staying on for extended periods of time (killed my battery a few times).
My info panel on my dash says the trunk is open, when it's definately closed. I disassembled the trunk and got to the wiring to check and see if something came loose. If I manually push the latch in, the remote will open the latch. If I close the latch again, the trunk button on the trunk (magically) starts working.
Both of these will open the latch while I manually push it in with the trunk lid open. But, if I close the trunk normally, the info panel says it's open, and the key fob and trunk button will not work. I've looked at the latch loop(?) where the latch hooks too. It doesn't look out of adjustment, but who knows.
I'm hoping I just need to have the computer reset.
My info panel on my dash says the trunk is open, when it's definately closed. I disassembled the trunk and got to the wiring to check and see if something came loose. If I manually push the latch in, the remote will open the latch. If I close the latch again, the trunk button on the trunk (magically) starts working.
Both of these will open the latch while I manually push it in with the trunk lid open. But, if I close the trunk normally, the info panel says it's open, and the key fob and trunk button will not work. I've looked at the latch loop(?) where the latch hooks too. It doesn't look out of adjustment, but who knows.
I'm hoping I just need to have the computer reset.
#6
trunk won't open with remote/release
My 2002 S80 has a wire harness that runs from the fuse box on the driver's side of the trunk to the lock assembly at the rear of the trunk. The wire harness is prone to becoming chafed or rubbed through the insulator and to short out on the metal deck lid, especially if the harness tie wrap is missing or broken allowing the harness to move around.
When this happens it is common for the fuse to blow in the fuse box and eliminate the ability of the FOB to electronically open the trunk lid. It is a fairly easy fix to replace the harness and the fuse.
A short term fix may be to wrap the existing harness with a bit of electricians tape. BUT that is a short term repair while waiting to get the harness.
I’ve replaced two on my 2002 S80. The first because it failed the second because I didn’t use a wire tie wrap to keep the harness tight in place.
When this happens it is common for the fuse to blow in the fuse box and eliminate the ability of the FOB to electronically open the trunk lid. It is a fairly easy fix to replace the harness and the fuse.
A short term fix may be to wrap the existing harness with a bit of electricians tape. BUT that is a short term repair while waiting to get the harness.
I’ve replaced two on my 2002 S80. The first because it failed the second because I didn’t use a wire tie wrap to keep the harness tight in place.
#7
Commenting on an old thread. But I have the same issue with my 2002 S60. Has been about a year I can't get in the trunk without the key. I have the message on the dash constantly telling me that trunk is open. I just ignore it. Always make sure it is locked.
I have no idea what it is. Some people saying it might be a computer update. Some people saying it might just pulling out a relay I want to say and putting it back in. Either way. At this point in my cars history.
Volvo can go to hell I am not paying for computer update. Actually been doing all the work myself for years. The car runs well considering the mileage etc. These era Volvo's have the quirks especially when it comes to electrical. However, on the other hand the engines are the one thing that seems to run like a champ. I just plan on riding it out literally. Having to put the key in the back of the car to open the trunk is not the end of the world. 01, 02 cars are over 10 years old. Now anything we do we to them we need to make "business decision".
I have no idea what it is. Some people saying it might be a computer update. Some people saying it might just pulling out a relay I want to say and putting it back in. Either way. At this point in my cars history.
Volvo can go to hell I am not paying for computer update. Actually been doing all the work myself for years. The car runs well considering the mileage etc. These era Volvo's have the quirks especially when it comes to electrical. However, on the other hand the engines are the one thing that seems to run like a champ. I just plan on riding it out literally. Having to put the key in the back of the car to open the trunk is not the end of the world. 01, 02 cars are over 10 years old. Now anything we do we to them we need to make "business decision".
Last edited by stop_at_willoughby; 03-07-2014 at 05:10 AM.
#8
#9
Did you have a message on your Dashboard Cluster constantly telling you that your trunk was open? This message is the main reason why I think it is likely a sensor.
#10
#11
Yes there was a message on the dash stating that the trunk was open; I also was getting the 'Clicking' sound from the trunk "like I was continually opening the trunk" but wasn't. All fuses were good and again the dealer only wanted to replace the entire trunk switch and lock; when it was only a bad relay/wire.
I bought a replacement wire from eBay for around $15 U.S., and rather than re-running the entire wire I only replaced it from the connection point and it's been working for over 9 months now.
Hope this helps.
E.
I bought a replacement wire from eBay for around $15 U.S., and rather than re-running the entire wire I only replaced it from the connection point and it's been working for over 9 months now.
Hope this helps.
E.
#12
GRAND: Did you ever find a solution?
My 2002 S60 trunk button (above Lic. plate) never has worked. I bought this car used in 2006. I was fine using the key fob. That stopped working a few months back. Now I have to use the key. Worse part is my trunk lights staying on for extended periods of time (killed my battery a few times).
My info panel on my dash says the trunk is open, when it's definately closed. I disassembled the trunk and got to the wiring to check and see if something came loose. If I manually push the latch in, the remote will open the latch. If I close the latch again, the trunk button on the trunk (magically) starts working.
Both of these will open the latch while I manually push it in with the trunk lid open. But, if I close the trunk normally, the info panel says it's open, and the key fob and trunk button will not work. I've looked at the latch loop(?) where the latch hooks too. It doesn't look out of adjustment, but who knows.
I'm hoping I just need to have the computer reset.
My info panel on my dash says the trunk is open, when it's definately closed. I disassembled the trunk and got to the wiring to check and see if something came loose. If I manually push the latch in, the remote will open the latch. If I close the latch again, the trunk button on the trunk (magically) starts working.
Both of these will open the latch while I manually push it in with the trunk lid open. But, if I close the trunk normally, the info panel says it's open, and the key fob and trunk button will not work. I've looked at the latch loop(?) where the latch hooks too. It doesn't look out of adjustment, but who knows.
I'm hoping I just need to have the computer reset.
#13
Solution found! (2004 s-60)
Someone else may have mentioned it - but just to be certain here is what I found:
My trunk suddenly would not open using either the remote or the trunk lid button above the license plate. Also the "Trunk Open" warning came on the dash even though it was definitely closed and locked. I could only open the trunk by inserting the key into the hidden trunk lock above the license plate.
Upon experimenting, I discovered that if I pushed the trunk latch into the locked position (using a finger or screwdriver) while the trunk lid was opened the "Trunk Open" dash warning went off and - the remotes and the trunk lid button both released the latch to the open position. However, whenever I did this test and then slowly lowered the trunk lid (with the latch in the locked position) the dash "Trunk Open" warning would flicker on as the lid was 2/3 lowered and once that warning light was on neither the remotes or trunk lid button worked. It was then I realized there was likely an intermittent break in the wires running from the trunk to the trunk lid. Sure enough, when I moved/wiggled the wire harness by the left side trunk hinge, I was able to make the "trunk Open" warning light flicker on/off.
So replacing that easy to replace wiring harness (part number for 2004 S-60 is 8645057 ~$70 online) fixes the issue.
Try it with your car and if you replicate my findings you now know the fix!
My trunk suddenly would not open using either the remote or the trunk lid button above the license plate. Also the "Trunk Open" warning came on the dash even though it was definitely closed and locked. I could only open the trunk by inserting the key into the hidden trunk lock above the license plate.
Upon experimenting, I discovered that if I pushed the trunk latch into the locked position (using a finger or screwdriver) while the trunk lid was opened the "Trunk Open" dash warning went off and - the remotes and the trunk lid button both released the latch to the open position. However, whenever I did this test and then slowly lowered the trunk lid (with the latch in the locked position) the dash "Trunk Open" warning would flicker on as the lid was 2/3 lowered and once that warning light was on neither the remotes or trunk lid button worked. It was then I realized there was likely an intermittent break in the wires running from the trunk to the trunk lid. Sure enough, when I moved/wiggled the wire harness by the left side trunk hinge, I was able to make the "trunk Open" warning light flicker on/off.
So replacing that easy to replace wiring harness (part number for 2004 S-60 is 8645057 ~$70 online) fixes the issue.
Try it with your car and if you replicate my findings you now know the fix!
#14
Excellent post. I bought a new trunk harness off eBay for like $65-70 as suggested. Was relatively easy to install. Can finally use the remote key to open and not have to use the key hole. Also the "Trunk Lid Open" message has disappeared from my cluster.
Thanks for the info. Nice to be able to open my trunk again like I am suppose to after something like a year of doing it the other way.
Thanks for the info. Nice to be able to open my trunk again like I am suppose to after something like a year of doing it the other way.
Someone else may have mentioned it - but just to be certain here is what I found:
My trunk suddenly would not open using either the remote or the trunk lid button above the license plate. Also the "Trunk Open" warning came on the dash even though it was definitely closed and locked. I could only open the trunk by inserting the key into the hidden trunk lock above the license plate.
Upon experimenting, I discovered that if I pushed the trunk latch into the locked position (using a finger or screwdriver) while the trunk lid was opened the "Trunk Open" dash warning went off and - the remotes and the trunk lid button both released the latch to the open position. However, whenever I did this test and then slowly lowered the trunk lid (with the latch in the locked position) the dash "Trunk Open" warning would flicker on as the lid was 2/3 lowered and once that warning light was on neither the remotes or trunk lid button worked. It was then I realized there was likely an intermittent break in the wires running from the trunk to the trunk lid. Sure enough, when I moved/wiggled the wire harness by the left side trunk hinge, I was able to make the "trunk Open" warning light flicker on/off.
So replacing that easy to replace wiring harness (part number for 2004 S-60 is 8645057 ~$70 online) fixes the issue.
Try it with your car and if you replicate my findings you now know the fix!
My trunk suddenly would not open using either the remote or the trunk lid button above the license plate. Also the "Trunk Open" warning came on the dash even though it was definitely closed and locked. I could only open the trunk by inserting the key into the hidden trunk lock above the license plate.
Upon experimenting, I discovered that if I pushed the trunk latch into the locked position (using a finger or screwdriver) while the trunk lid was opened the "Trunk Open" dash warning went off and - the remotes and the trunk lid button both released the latch to the open position. However, whenever I did this test and then slowly lowered the trunk lid (with the latch in the locked position) the dash "Trunk Open" warning would flicker on as the lid was 2/3 lowered and once that warning light was on neither the remotes or trunk lid button worked. It was then I realized there was likely an intermittent break in the wires running from the trunk to the trunk lid. Sure enough, when I moved/wiggled the wire harness by the left side trunk hinge, I was able to make the "trunk Open" warning light flicker on/off.
So replacing that easy to replace wiring harness (part number for 2004 S-60 is 8645057 ~$70 online) fixes the issue.
Try it with your car and if you replicate my findings you now know the fix!
#15
Excellent post. I bought a new trunk harness off eBay for like $65-70 as suggested. Was relatively easy to install. Can finally use the remote key to open and not have to use the key hole. Also the "Trunk Lid Open" message has disappeared from my cluster.
Thanks for the info. Nice to be able to open my trunk again like I am suppose to after something like a year of doing it the other way.
Thanks for the info. Nice to be able to open my trunk again like I am suppose to after something like a year of doing it the other way.
#16
Glad it worked for you as is did for me! Now I just need to find someone who can replace my out of warranty catalytic converter for a reasonable price! Sure wish that was a do-it-yourself project - but without a welding torch (and associated skills) I think I'm out of luck.
#17
Just make sure you order the correct wire. Mine had the original part tag with part number still attached to it - so even that was a breeze.
Good luck - but you probably won't need any since it's such a straight-forward job!
#18
Replacing the trunk wiring harness is very easy. Once you pop off the trunk lid liner and the open the trunk wall cover by the left tail light, you'll be able to see the wire/cable and remove the old and replace with the new in a matter of 2-3 minutes.
Just make sure you order the correct wire. Mine had the original part tag with part number still attached to it - so even that was a breeze.
Good luck - but you probably won't need any since it's such a straight-forward job!
Just make sure you order the correct wire. Mine had the original part tag with part number still attached to it - so even that was a breeze.
Good luck - but you probably won't need any since it's such a straight-forward job!
Last edited by Tannersarms; 05-01-2014 at 10:21 AM.
#19
Ok, there was a typo in my previous post, which I've since corrected, it's actually a 2005, not a 2006. Also, while others here were getting the "Trunk lid open" message, I never did.
So, for the part, I found this, but I'm a little confused as to which part I want, is it the whole assembly (figure 1 @ $38.16), or just one of the cheaper parts?
Finally, this is the guide I found over at Swedespeed, albeit for an S40. Pretty much the same?
Thanks for your help, I figure doing this myself will probably save $100 on an hours labor at the repair shop.
So, for the part, I found this, but I'm a little confused as to which part I want, is it the whole assembly (figure 1 @ $38.16), or just one of the cheaper parts?
Finally, this is the guide I found over at Swedespeed, albeit for an S40. Pretty much the same?
Thanks for your help, I figure doing this myself will probably save $100 on an hours labor at the repair shop.
#20
Ok, there was a typo in my previous post, which I've since corrected, it's actually a 2005, not a 2006. Also, while others here were getting the "Trunk lid open" message, I never did.
So, for the part, I found this, but I'm a little confused as to which part I want, is it the whole assembly (figure 1 @ $38.16), or just one of the cheaper parts?
Finally, this is the guide I found over at Swedespeed, albeit for an S40. Pretty much the same?
Thanks for your help, I figure doing this myself will probably save $100 on an hours labor at the repair shop.
So, for the part, I found this, but I'm a little confused as to which part I want, is it the whole assembly (figure 1 @ $38.16), or just one of the cheaper parts?
Finally, this is the guide I found over at Swedespeed, albeit for an S40. Pretty much the same?
Thanks for your help, I figure doing this myself will probably save $100 on an hours labor at the repair shop.