Hi All,

I'm a new member and have owned a '98 S70 T5 5 speed for about two years. The car is a one-owner, was fully dealer serviced, and has used synthetic oil since new. Mileage was only 132,000 kilometers when purchased. Now @170,000.

My previous experience is with SAAB 900's and 9000's, but horrible dealer support with GM saw me finally call it a day. Really missed my Swedish engineering, so thought I'd try a Volvo.

Starting problems on the S70 began not long after purchase and have become very very frustrating!

First starting problem was totally random, either hot or cold, and turned out to be a cold solder, or fractured joint, somewhere in the fuel pump wiring. Mechanic removed what looked like a small plastic drum with copper wire wound around it claiming it it be the problem. Wires were soldered together without it. Not sure what that did!

Next problem hit with cold weather. Car started and ran perfectly if the ambient was above -14c, as measured on the dash LED readout. If below -14c it would fire once and then just crank.

The car went into the shop (local independent with Eurocar experience) taking the opportunity we had with some bone-chilling -30c temperatures to do some testing. It was there for nearly a month. Just got it back - first cold snap: same problem!

There are no codes. Coolant temp sensor was changed. Ignition wires, cap, rotor and plugs were changed for OEM. OEM Battery is good, fuel pressure good. Spark good. There was an issue after fitting the new ignition components, but this turned out to be a faulty NEW rotor. MAS was swapped out for a new one to test, but no change. I've read about issues regarding faulty crank position sensors, but surely this would give a code? I actually think the CPS was changed at some point, but am not sure.

Any help greatly appreciated! I'm reaching the hair-pulling out stage!

 

BTW, here's a shot of the part that was arcing and removed. I was told it turned the car into a potential bomb if conditions had been right. The wires were re-soldered leaving this little item out. Starting was restored that time around.

Anyone recognise it, or what it does?

 

I am having the same issue. If I can get it started and warmed up, it is fine and starts back up immediately. At first mine was intermittant, but has been constant this winter. A symptom that seems to follow it is the cooling fan running as soon as I turn on the key and after I turn it off. Even if the engine never starts. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, Mass air flow sensor, spark plugs and wires in the last 6 months (some for other issues) but none have had any effect. Today I plugged in a new engine coolant temperature sensor since it was cold outside. No change at all. Don't know what to try next without just throwing money at it.

 

Can you ask your tech what that is and report back? That looks like a very heavy duty wire-wound resistor but never seen anything like that on a car..?

 

@ Phil: A bad purge valve can cause starting issues.

@ RStrohl: Those symptoms do point to a bad coolant temp sensor. Have you had codes read?

 

i have a volvo 2000 s40 turbo, started having problems when the ambient temp got below freezing wont do anything, first thought it was the pnp that seemed to be a common problem so i tried it after replacing it it ran fine until it got cold again it started 3 times tonite then temp got a little colder and no start again. i previously had the codes read and checked for an oil leak codes came up for the cvvt, but the car was running fine so i feel i have another issue, we checked the starter and it was fine would the iat sensor keep it from no crank and no start? any help appreciated

 

Hi All,

Thanks for all the feedback on the starting issue and sorry to hear that others are experiencing the same...or similar!

My car, a dealer-pampered '98, has soaked up money like no other vehicle I have owned (and that includes a Range Rover!), but still impresses when it is working reliably. Steering rack was the latest to go, after the heater fan and resister unit, MAS, steering tie rods and brakes. Currently the radio fuse keeps blowing, with no obvious sign of damage anywhere!

The starting issue turned out to be the fuel pump relay that was decaying inside. The deterioration made itself known when the temperature got cold and the contacts would not close properly.

The 'resistor' photo I sent is supposed to be a thermo-coupling, or so I was told. Another piece of Bosch retro-alien tech I guess!

Winter is rearing its ugly head in these parts again so fingers crossed for another season!