I have taken to a local Volvo shop and the they said it was the MAF, so I replaced it and the engine light came back on, same code. Took it back and then they said it's the ambient air temp sensor (thought would be strange since the temp always read correctly) Changed it and have the same code.

Please help, what else could it be?

P.s. all parts replaced were genuine Volvo.

 

Could be a dirty air filter or poor connection or chafed wiring, so check your air filter and all wires that lead to maf and temp sensor.

 

Hi did you solve this problem ? I think I have the same problem
and I dont want to start changing parts .

- im not sure how these forums work, but you can also email at
markefoord@comcast.net

Thanks Mark

 

The ambient air temp sensor volvo talked about could be the one in the air filter box that controls the vacuum nipple that connects to a hot/cold intake gate for the air filter box. Mine is a 98 no turbo and not sure if all S70 models have these so please make sure and look before ordering -

 

Hi, I had Po113 on my 1998 GLT S70 - see my recent thread.
I found that there are 2 ambient air temp sensors, one
on the left and one on the right side , below the radiator near the front
of the car.
For me , the driver side
one was fine, but the one of the passenger side, which I found later
was cracked. I bought a new one, and it fixed the check engine light.
its a simple solid plastic plug. Mechanics don't seem to know about
this second sensor.

I first had replaced the MAF, unfortunately it had not effect - cost $45.

The whole process of trying to diagnose this was a mess, no one knew
much, and circuit diagrams were not even accurate.

You should crawl under the front of the car and look for the sensors,
they are little plastic things attached to the car frame and that plug into wires. They are very easy to find.

 

To Tdog, I couldn't find a sensor in or around my air filter box for
my 98 GLT. maybe the GLT is a different from the non turbo
in that regards.

 

Mark, I'm no mechanic. Sometimes I feel like the dealer reads a code and replaces rather than going a little deper to find the cause. Anyway, there is a thermostat or controller that opens / closes a gate on the very bottom of the airbox. Not sure where this might be on the GLT One side connects to a metal tube from the exhaust manifold (hot), the other side take fresh air. The hot side is a smaller opening. These default hot if there is a failure and that may be causing the low input sensor error. If this is the case, you are probably also getting poor gas milage.

Hope this helps

 

Thanks,

My GLT has a filter box also. The intake cold side I think comes from the
intercooler, which I think cools the air for the turbo. ALthough
I never precisely located this intercooler, I think it is buried
below tubes up and behind the radiator.
THe outflow side of the filter box goes to the turbo/exhaust manifold. The
MAF sensor is on a small plastic tube piece that fits on the outflow side of the filter box , where the other side connects to the main tube that goes to the turbo/exhaust manifold.
I dont see any other sensors or air flow controls in or around the box.
It sounds like the GLT is very different than the GL for air flow control.

By the way, my major "discovery" was that there are actually 2 front
sensors that are left and right of the radiator behind the bumper. I had to find the sensor on the passenger side, the mechanic missed it. You can unplug it and check it with an ohm meter. My broken one was shorted out, zero resistance. I bought one online, swapped it in, and my check engine light has been out for about a week now ...

 

So was that throwing the code? and what is the part number of the sensor?
I looked on the right side of the radiator and there is something missing, empty plug. Not sure what goes there, but maybe its the sensor? The car was wrecked in the front a few years ago, maybe it was taken off and never replaced.

 

I think the broken sensor was the problem in my case. The check
engine light has been out for almost 2 weeks, although I understand it takes
a long time to clear out the codes from the computer, and there is a
chance it could come back.
Its a small 2-wire sensor plug. part # 1347010-1
and other side says Germany601.550 for what thats worth.
my fault code was P0113.

 

Hi;
I've got a 1998 S70T5 where I'm pushing P0112 Codes. There are 2 identical sensors under the front bumper to either side of the radiator. One of the sensors is adjacent to the Drivers side fog light.

AllData troubleshooting says sensor on drivers side is OAT sensor. The sensor on right side is the sensor to computer for Fuel mixture.

I swapped sensors, and still got the same code. I then checked voltage at pin #1 on the connector and it's "O" nada zip, etc. It should be +5V DC. I don't have any schematics. I'm going to assume that the temp sensor is OK, and it's a wiring issue.

We live in a cold snow belt. When I opened up these connectors, the rubber seal inside disintegrated. There was also signs of copper corrosion. (green copper sulfate).

Where should I look to figure this out ?

Thank You!

 

It took me all day to figure this out, but it's fixed.

ALLData said the sensor should have +5VDC on terminal #1. There was none. I swapped sensors with the OAT sensor on the other side of the radiator. I looked at the harness and it looked OK up to the radiator. I went and repaired a few other vacuum leaks caused by a split hose out of the idle control motor. I went back and looked at the harness from the engine side and noticed a cut in the black harness wrap.

Upon closer inspection, both of the wires on the inside was broken.

I pulled the harness out, soldered the wires and put some heat shrink around the repair. I now have +5VDC at the sensor socket.

I reset the computer, and took for a 20 minute drive. The boost is back to +15PSI at 6000 RPM, (IPD ECU, TCV, and Boost mods) and it runs like a T5 should.

The moral of the story is start simple, and keep looking.

Thanks to the others on this forum, and FCP Groton for having great part prices.

 

I have a 97 850GLT (2.3L Turbo), that I bought 2 weeks ago with a start up and running issue. It has a hard time starting... usually take 3-4 cranks (hot or cold), and then it will idle ok, but if you step on the gas, it sputters and tries to die. I've changed the MAF, the Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump Relay, Idle Control Valve, Air Filter, Plugs, Rotor and Cap. Its running better, but still has no acceleration and falls on its face between 1100 and 2000 rpms,... If you hold it at 2000 and punch it, it picks up quickly, but under that, its spits and coughs. I've checked everywhere for vacuum leaks, and found a small one on the Vacuum Tree by the throttle body(Throttle Diaphragm?) . I plugged the hole but NO CHANGE.

I am curious about the 2 sensors you've mentioned. I have 1 on the drivers side at the bottom of the radiator (Ambient Temp Sensor)... also one inside the bottom of the drivers front fender (you can see laying on your back looking up at the underside of the car... this one has a small grey connector and has a small black plastic piece plugged into it (dont look like a sensor though) ?????
...There IS a mate to this one on the passengers side on the bottom of the Washer fluid tank... NO IDEA what these are.

The one in question that may solve my problems (finger crossed) is the one that should be on the Passengers Side Below the Radiator,... Its MISSING COMPLETELY (if there IS one suppose to be there)... I don't see evidence of a bracket missing either.
BUT, I have found a small black conduit ON THE DRIVERS SIDE someone has routed down by the AIR PUMP. There are 2 wires coming out (Yellow with a Brown or Black Stripe and a Brown Wire with a Black Stripe).
Theres nothing missing that should plug in to the Air Pump. I thought maybe for fog lights, but my car don't have any.

I am thinking MAYBE this is the wire for a missing Fuel Mixture Sensor That should be on the Passengers side below the radiator (you talked about)... ??????
It looks like there may be enough slack in the wire to reach that area.

ANY THOUGHTS?

Does anyone know if the 2 wires to that particular sensor are Yellow and Brown?
Sure would be nice if this is the problem!



Thanks.
RZ

 

The Yellow Wire Has 4.35V when car is running,
Brown wire 0 volts.

Sure sounds like a sensor wire.
I am NOT showing a SEL after running 1 minute the light goes out. Then if I restart the car, the SEL lights again and goes out after a minute or so. ODD.
I Checked on my OBDii scanner, Zero Codes every time. I even clears Zero codes and ithe SEL does the same thing.

???

 

(volvo ,98 , GLT) My experience was that both sensors are physically the same. Same
number, look the same , etc. THey are encapsulated in plastic so
you can't see much. They are essentially temperature sensitive
resistors, so they change the current readings in the computer depending on the temp. I think the resistance changes in time (years) , but I also think the
computer is smart enough to adjust. I am not sure why there are 2, but in my case, when one was out (drivers side near front bumper) I had a check engine light on, and the car had idling problems.After I replaced the plastic sensor, the check engine light went immediately out, but the car didn't run much better. I then checked the spark plugs, (that I suspect had never been changed) and found 2 in pretty bad shape. Gapped and replaced all 4, and its been driven great since. I think driving with the sensor out for a long time, might have caused the spark plugs to wear faster, but who knows.
My surprise was when I found the second sensor, which I didn't know about from my simple searching on the internet , and so on ...

 

Would you check and see if the 2nd sensor has a yellow wire and a brown wire going to it?
Is your 2nd one attached behind the radiator in the air opening like the other one, or is it hidden somewhere?
Like I said, the yellow wire is reading about 4.5 volts wi the car on,... So I would not be surprised if this is a sensor wire with the connector pulled/cut off.
Although, I would think it would throw a code,,,, it hasn't. (not for that anyway)
Thanks.

 

Hi;
The 2 sensors are identical. The drivers side sensor is pushed into a hole next to the fog light. I swapped sensors and checked temp against an IR thermometer. Also look at the ambient air sensor temp in the speedo display. If it's ---- then you know it's NFG. The right side sensor wire is a Brown/Yellow and I forget the other color.
Good Luck.

 

Forgot to mention, that wire harness is for the ambient air temp sensor going to the front left side. The right side has an identical sensor that goes to the computer. The right side sensor will throw codes if it's NFG.

The relay you shot a pic of is the Supplemental Air Injection Pump Relay. It will only operate under certain conditions as called for by ECU.

Good Luck

 

What I was trying to capture in the picture is the black conduit with the Yellow and Brown Wires coming out of it.
I am wondering if this is where my 2nd sensor connector is suppose to be and it's missing????

 

That black conduit is for the temp sensor on the drivers side. That sensor connects to the dashboard display. I think the sensor is a thryistor (sic.) I'd bet if you take the dashboard display and cycle thru the display one of them is blank or "----". Did you find the other sensor on the right side? Make sure when you go to reconnect that you get the polarity correct. Thryistors act as diodes in reverse polarity. Brown is common, or ground.

Good Luck.