I bought a FEBI rubber insert to replace the subject engine mount. Apparently the mount has a hard plastic shell as the original did. It took a bit of work to remove the old one; but it seems impossible to be able to install the new one. The fit is just too tight.

I checked the eeuroparts site and it seems they sell a urethane mount and they indicate that it lasts longer, is easier to install and doesn't require a special tool.

So my question is does the OEM engine mount require a special tool to install? I should have checked more carefully before ordering.

I think I will just have to order the other part, but I figured I would check with the experts before ordering, thanks.

 

Yes it kind of requires special tools.
But you might be able to make something. Like a big socket on each side with a ling bolt going through it. Then tighten it up to press the bushing in.

 

If Tech's suggestion doesn't work out, you'll need a hydraulic press. Some shops will press the bushing in for a small fee if you take the bracket off the engine and take it to them with the bushing. Personally, I'd just get the urethane mount. It lasts a lot longer than the OEM one, and it doesn't really transmit much additional vibration- it's not like going to all- urethane suspension bushings!

 

I had Polly bushing installed and vibration was so bad that I had to reinstall OEM rubber bushing. It is PITA to push it in,but is possible, I made DIY tool. Follow directions from this links:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/engine_mount2.php

http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=87094
Third is the best.
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...ool-in-action/
I also used C clamp to hold it in place
My car is 850 and I hope this works for S 70

 

Thanks guys. I went with a urethane bushing that I got from EEuroparts. The bushing is split in the middle. Even this was a pain to install. The right side went in fairly easily, but there was no way the left side was going in. I wound up sanding it down a bit until I was able to get a very tight fit. I haven't driven the car yet so I can't comment if this type of bushing causes more or less vibration. I had the bracket completely disconnected and it seemed kind of smooth to me.

 

Please report back regarding vibration, etc. I need to do this.

 

I'll be driving the car tomorrow should be able to make an assessment then. I will let you know. Either way it is a pain to replace if you go with the original style or buy the polyurethane. You might also want to change the mount at the firewall. After I removed the connecting arm I noticed that this was starting to crack. Someone else had posted directions on changing that, but basically it bolts from the top so - remove the caps for the windshield wipers, remove the wiper bolts and wipers, remove all the screws holding down the large tray under the wipers, remove fuse box top cover, disconnect tray drain hoses, remove the tray- now you have access to the bolts for the upper engine mount, remove and install the new one (torque to 36 ft-lbs). When you reinstall the wipers don't torque beyond 12 ft-lbs.

 

There is no noticeable vibration (at least that I can detect) as a result of using the urethane engine mount replacement. I also replaced the mount at the firewall using a rubber mount. One difference is the car is noisier now - more engine and exhaust noise. I can't explain it unless I managed to break something loose in the process of installing the mount.

If I were doing it again, I would figure out the proper orientation of the bushing - the hole is off center, remove the bracket and have a shop press it in. This suggestion was made by another poster and I think it is good advice. I would also plan on changing the bushing at the firewall, this one is a complete package metal mount rubber insert and bolts -- you just have to get to the old one which is a little bit of work as I indicated yesterday. Good luck.

 

I just completed this replacement on my 2001 S60 and wanted to share some comments.
I used the OEM-style rubber (non urethane) mount. I got mine at autopartwarehouse for $23.
Installing this was incredibly easy. I researched a lot and read several posts about threaded bolts and installation tools, etc.
Removing Old Mount
———————–
The two brackets are folded sheet metal there is a long bolt at either end. One bolts to the enginer mount and one to the stabilizer bar. You have to remove the one bolt and loosen the other so the brackets can be swung out of the way.
The bolts and nuts are mis matched sizes (17 and 19 mm).
Remove the worn bushing with a hacksaw blade. Cut one slit the chip it out wqith a flat-blade screwdriver and hammer. It comes out easily (if old and brittle it may chiip out a few pieces).
Installing New Mount
————————
I put mine in the freezer for a few hours. 60deg diff isnt much but it might have contracted a tiny bit and gotten a tiny bitter stiffer. Couldn’t hurt.
Sprayed the inside of the mount with WD-40 and slipped the end of the bushing in (go in from passenger side).
Tap the perimeter lightly to move it in. Then place a small piece of wood on the perimneter (say a 1/2inch square piece about 4 in long) simply tap with a light hammer around the perimeter.
Thats all it took.
About 5 minutes of gentle tapping and it was in. No fuss no muss no tools needed.

 

Where did you buy the OEM style rubber bushing? I'm looking for the one that installs to the mount on the engine (not firewall) and i'm having difficulty finding it. Also a part # would help tremendously. Thanks!

 

 

You can try eeuroparts.com
Volvo Engine Mount Bushing - Rear Upper - Febi 12799 - Free Shipping
This one has a very tight fit - you may not be able to install it without a press.