Here is a rundown. I had the normal check engine, abs, ets, brake, traction lights on. I scanned the codes and found a couple throttle body codes in the computer and wheel sensor codes. I did some research and found that the abs module needed repaired and the throttle body needed cleaned to start with. I took the abs module off and removed the cover. Sure enough there was soldered joints that needed repaired. The radiator was leaking so I replaced it at the same time. While the radiator was out I removed the throttle body and cleaned it. So I have installed new radiator, repaired abs module, cleaned throttle body. I start the car up and there are ZERO lights on the dash and the car is running perfect. I drove the car for about a week off and on with no problems.

Then out of nowhere all the dash lights came on the mileage showed blank and the car is running on what feels like on 2 cylinders. It's not driveable to say the least. The ets, check engine, abs, brake, traction, oil light, practically every light on dash is on. Some times it will start then sometimes it will just turn over.

The heater core was replaced on the car several months ago and it seemed like part of these problems started afterwards.

The abs module can't cause the engine to run bad can it ?

I'm thinking either ignition switch, ecm, ets, or cluster.

I rescanned the codes and found P1633 accelerator pedal pos senor 2 signal too low, P1631 Accel pedal too high, and P1618 Glow Plug/Heater Relay Cir Short to B+

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Update. The tachometer also does not work. I noticed the positive battery cable was getting hot. I cut the terminal end off and that fixed the cable getting hot. The alternator is charging around 13.7 and it has a new battery.

If you give the car gas it will not rev it at all.

 

thanks for the help

 

You need a new ETM (throttle body)

 

Did you ever resolve the issue? I am having similar issues and have replaced the ignition switch ...abs module was already repaired in 2010. I ordered another one , put it in and there was no change, so I sent it back and have the previous rebuilt unit there..
I checked the voltage at no load and under load and they were all acceptable.
I checkethe Bcable and no voltage drop. I started the car and let it run for about 10 minutes and there were no lights and not running issues. I think it needs to get hot under th hood in order to reproduce the symtoms.
Symptoms are: ABS,BRAKE and traction light on. cLUSTER ALL - - - -...no speedometer or tahcometer. Intermittent ,when I shut the car off it seems to reset....it will also run like a couple cylinders are missing and it wants to die. It does this intermittently........HELP!!

 

This is going to sound crazy, but check the alternator. My son's car exhibited many of those signs and it was a power problem. Pull the serpentine belt off the alternator. Spin the alternator and grab the pulley. If the armature still spins, the alternator is slipping and not loading up. I would have thought you would have a dead or weak battery as well.

Anyway, the hot battery cable is a clue. Hot cables are cause by heavy current draw.