So I have a ton of codes (2000 S70 GLT non-turbo)
#1
So I have a ton of codes (2000 S70 GLT non-turbo)
2000 S70 GLT non turbo
Let's start from the top: Girl I am kind of seeing has a sister who has the aforementioned S70.
It was getting her to and work until Thursday night when the car just died on her on the side of the road.
It cranks, but won't start. My first indication is the typical: Fuel pump relay or coil. I had also thought maybe the timing belt snapped. Anyway, she had the car towed back to the sister's apartment.
But, I brought along my code scanner to check that out before doing anything in the apartment parking lot.
Lookie what we have here!
Codes:
P0172
P0305
P0303
P0300
P0301
P0304
P0455
I've honestly never inspected a car that had seven codes. My previous max was four. So before I go start yanking parts from my basement supply or from my local boneyard, can anyone give me a quick synopsis of what to tackle first?
Please don't worry about anything emissions related that won't affect the car's running functionality. We live in Indiana and there are no safety or emissions checks. On top of that, I just want the sister to be able to get to work and back for the next few weeks until she gets her new car and we can sell this one for cheap.
Thanks a lot!
Let's start from the top: Girl I am kind of seeing has a sister who has the aforementioned S70.
It was getting her to and work until Thursday night when the car just died on her on the side of the road.
It cranks, but won't start. My first indication is the typical: Fuel pump relay or coil. I had also thought maybe the timing belt snapped. Anyway, she had the car towed back to the sister's apartment.
But, I brought along my code scanner to check that out before doing anything in the apartment parking lot.
Lookie what we have here!
Codes:
P0172
P0305
P0303
P0300
P0301
P0304
P0455
I've honestly never inspected a car that had seven codes. My previous max was four. So before I go start yanking parts from my basement supply or from my local boneyard, can anyone give me a quick synopsis of what to tackle first?
Please don't worry about anything emissions related that won't affect the car's running functionality. We live in Indiana and there are no safety or emissions checks. On top of that, I just want the sister to be able to get to work and back for the next few weeks until she gets her new car and we can sell this one for cheap.
Thanks a lot!
#7
So update time.
Her sister just bought a 2012 Focus, and they are going to gift me the S70 for helping them get a great deal through a friend that owns a dealership.
It's still parked at her sister's apartment, but I checked the timing belt. The belt looks newer, and the tension is tight, so I'm ruling that out.
The fuel pump relay did not work, unless the ones I had magically went bad sitting in a box in the closet on the shelf over the past few years.
Since it is a 1998 with plug/wire setup, would doing a full tune up be the best place to start?
If that's not it, what else from there?
Her sister just bought a 2012 Focus, and they are going to gift me the S70 for helping them get a great deal through a friend that owns a dealership.
It's still parked at her sister's apartment, but I checked the timing belt. The belt looks newer, and the tension is tight, so I'm ruling that out.
The fuel pump relay did not work, unless the ones I had magically went bad sitting in a box in the closet on the shelf over the past few years.
Since it is a 1998 with plug/wire setup, would doing a full tune up be the best place to start?
If that's not it, what else from there?
#8
the 300s are all related, ie 301 is a misfire on cyl 1, 302 on cyl 2 etc, so cap/wire/rotor/plugs are a good place to start since the car is new to you (aka baseline tune up or a "stage 0".
The P0172 is a bank 1 running rich - check for vacuum leaks (example below)
P0455 is the evap emissions control code. Again check for vacuum leaks
The EVAP tube may require you getting under the car - I'd start at the vacuum tree (assuming the s70 is same as my 850 - its under the throttle cable spooler cover) then look at the J tubes and stuff that goes under the intake manifold to the PCV. Check your intake boots etc as well. If nothing is obvious you can try spraying carb cleaner or make a DIY smoke tester...
The P0172 is a bank 1 running rich - check for vacuum leaks (example below)
P0455 is the evap emissions control code. Again check for vacuum leaks
The EVAP tube may require you getting under the car - I'd start at the vacuum tree (assuming the s70 is same as my 850 - its under the throttle cable spooler cover) then look at the J tubes and stuff that goes under the intake manifold to the PCV. Check your intake boots etc as well. If nothing is obvious you can try spraying carb cleaner or make a DIY smoke tester...
#10
sorry I was just responding to the codes listed. The crank/no start could be a few other things - Fuel pump relay/fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator to name a few of the first things to look at. The next would be to help the spark with the wire/plug rotor refresh as noted. Its also possible the coil needs to be replaced (but that's not all that common a failure point = more likely would be the coil wire). Also after cranking - pull a plug to see if its wet.
#11
#12
#13
Car is home.
Checked to see if the fuel pump is working. It is! You can hear it priming and operating through cranking.
No spark, as checked by the old school method of screw driver and plug wire to body metal.
I tried a coil from a car that was running but wrecked from the local junk yard. Still the same symptoms.
Plugs and wires look new. Cap looks to be Bosch and probably original.
What else could cause this car to be not starting? Could it really be as easy as a new cap and rotor?
Also, the timing belt job is relatively new (Spring, 2014). All that is good.
My girlfriends sister said that the car jerked and just shut off when she was almost home. That's about as good of info i can get out of her.
Checked to see if the fuel pump is working. It is! You can hear it priming and operating through cranking.
No spark, as checked by the old school method of screw driver and plug wire to body metal.
I tried a coil from a car that was running but wrecked from the local junk yard. Still the same symptoms.
Plugs and wires look new. Cap looks to be Bosch and probably original.
What else could cause this car to be not starting? Could it really be as easy as a new cap and rotor?
Also, the timing belt job is relatively new (Spring, 2014). All that is good.
My girlfriends sister said that the car jerked and just shut off when she was almost home. That's about as good of info i can get out of her.
#14
#15
Brand new Camshaft sensor from Bosch did not solve the issue.
I do notice a stronger cranking and a little more pop noises from the tail pipe.
Fuel pump still primes in ON mode.
Stumped!
The rotor and cap are probably original, but no one has it in stock, so I might have to order those too.
Anyone know, beyond the cap and rotor, what might be the issue after replacing the Cam sensor?
I do notice a stronger cranking and a little more pop noises from the tail pipe.
Fuel pump still primes in ON mode.
Stumped!
The rotor and cap are probably original, but no one has it in stock, so I might have to order those too.
Anyone know, beyond the cap and rotor, what might be the issue after replacing the Cam sensor?
#16
I would take the guess work out(due to the fact they are cheap and do wonders to these cars) and replace the plugs/ plug-wires/ cap and rotor altogether, other then just the cap and rotor alone. No point on spending more money on anything else when most of the time a no start is simple maintenance items. If it doesn't start, well move to the next step.
Also, no start but cranking are the 3 basics which are spark, fuel, and serious vac leaks on these cars. A no start AND no crank is cam sensor, crank sensor, starter, or a relay that's toast(gotta love it), plus the usual no power problem( like dead battery or dead alternator).
Also, no start but cranking are the 3 basics which are spark, fuel, and serious vac leaks on these cars. A no start AND no crank is cam sensor, crank sensor, starter, or a relay that's toast(gotta love it), plus the usual no power problem( like dead battery or dead alternator).
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