check engine light came on today, stopped in at AUTO ZONE. pulled a P0013 code. Camshaft B position actuator in bank 1.. car runs great, great gas mileage, no hesitation and no irratic idle. car has 128k timing belt was changed at 109k by volvo. where is the camshaft actuator?

 

There is a soleniod mounted to the top of the cam cover with 4 8mm screws.
That might be bad.

But the cam position sensor might also be bad. It will also throw the same code.

 

is there any way to test them before i replace them? which one is more prone to go bad?

 

No real way to test unless you have spent $3000.00 for the good scanner system to read everything out of the computer.

I think the Cam sensor is cheaper and easier to replace.

You might be able to take it somewhere and have the system tested and monitored by someone that has the proper tools.


The cam sensor can be read on 2 different computers in the car. Half of the sensor can go bad an the other half will be fine.

The only reason I know is because I spent 2 days following the same code you have and replacing everything in the system but the cam sensor and kept getting the same code.
Replaced the sensor and all was fine.

 

i will do that today.. thanks

 

I had the same problem on my T5. Took the solenoid out to clean it and it was as clean as new. I use Mobile 1 Synthetic oil. I figured I had bad o-rings in the oil line going up to the top and was experiencing oil pressure issues there.

However, I left it like that for a few months and suddenly wasn't able to start the car quickly as usual. It took a longer crank. I started pulling code #P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor - High Input. Replaced the camshaft sensor and all was well.

Comments on this issue I posted on Swedespeed forum:
A weak CMP sensor will affect the CCVT system (exhaust camshaft timing on '99 S70) and will trigger a P0014 code. Likely because it needs to be precisely there on every revolution to work properly. If it skips a beat, there's the P0014. As for starting the engine, it may still be reliable enough for the initial ignition position and firing.
Once the sensor deteriorates enough that the ECU is not able to determine camshaft position, code P0343 is produced. You can produce the same results by simply unplugging the sensor. The engine may not start right up quickly, but when it does, the CCVT will not be able to function due to no position input.

regards,
MAJ

 

I know this is an old post, however I came across it everytime I google P1332 and or P0013 as one of my top 5 choices.
I am working on a 1999 V70 XC with 130k.

History of vehicle:
Purchased 6 moths ago. I wasn't there to inspect it - or may have passed. Did a phone consult to check the obvious.
Nice car, 115k but was a New Jersey car (much coorosion).

On drive home from San Diego to Orange County after purchase, oil pressure light would come on intermittent plus top end rattled - I replaced the oil pan o-rings and found some kind of wrapper plugging the pickup. After that, ran smooth, no oil pressure or noise issues. Oh and the car had about 9 Qts of oil in it to try and cover up the o-ring issue!

Replaced timing belt at the same time. Used IPD tool to hold cams gears in place (knowing it isn't the optimal tool to use). Double, triple checked timing marks as always (have done many many 1998 and up 5 and 6-cyl volvo t belts with an without being able to use a cam holder). Runs great, no issues.

However the thing didn't seem to ever have the power that my wifes 1998 S70 GLT does. We contributed that to it being AWD and heavier and a different engine and control system. It also had a long-crank issue.

My friend is trying to sell it now, found out the Check engine light wasn't working when getting smogged (California) and 4 codes were set (CEL code, P0013, P1332 and lean bank 1 code - I have them written down at home). The car passed emissions with flying colors, but failed cause of non-functioning CEL and no codes.

When he bought it, we didn't think about the CEL as it had a valid smog and ran pretty good.

We pulled the cluster - the bulb and holder were missing so we threw the one in from the indicator with the 2 arrows and the number 1 in the middle (never seen it come on). We put it back together, light works fine. Cleared the codes (with the engine running.) I proceeded to spray throttle body cleaner here and there looking for a vacuum leak for the lean code having no idea that the car was already in limp-home mode from the CEL code.

Well, couldn't find leak, turned car off. Turned back on, now wouldn't accelerate at all in park, idled like crap. I am thinking ETM as this is a known issue (and I have kind of been waiting for it to fail). So I do a visual, nothing obvious. Go search the net. Found someone with similar issue, he unplugged MAF and car ran great. So we did that and car ran like a whole new car. Plugged it back in, ran like crap. So thinking MAF was always bad but since car was in limp-home mode already, we never knew of this issue.

I also searched the P0013 and P1332 and saw a couple successes with pulling the solenoid valve off of the top of the engine, cleaning with brake cleaner and blowing out. Measured resisatance of solenoid - 3.7 ohm's or so, within specs. Thinking about the issue with the oil pan o-rings and the lack of maintenance the car seems to have with the previous owners, why not try a freebie.

So next day, cleaned MAF and connectors with MAF cleaner and oil control valve with brake cleaner. Put car back together, ran like crap till MAF was disconnected. Searched net came up with similar symptoms that MAF replacement solved. Replaced MAF with new Bosch, thing runs like a champ now, like a new car.

Drove for a while, no CEL, checked codes, P0013 and MAF code (from driving unplugged). All but O2 and Cat monitors had ran and passed. Cleared codes, waiting for all monitors to run again after a couple days driving before checking again to verify monitors have completed and no CEL.

Now my question is if P1332 isn't set and P0013 is, is it possible P1332 will set after the monitors complete or would it already (since the MAF and P0013 did before all monitors were complete)? P1332 and MAF code I am sure set on the drive home from my place after disconnecting MAF and before cleaning oil control solenoid.

This car runs better than ever now. However I feel like a bonehead not checking the light myself. He has a guy with $5500 waiting for this car to pass smog to buy.

Thanks in advance for any insight.