First of all, yes I have searched and read related articles and posts already. However, none of them talked about front main or cam seals or any leak that is worse when the engine is warm.

Ok, so I bought a 99 S80 which I knew had a few problems for $3,000. I live in Hawaii and wanted something cheap that I could get sandy, but something comfortable and reasonably fast. Seemed ideal. So far the top engine mount was busted along with the torque rod mounts. I knew they were bad, but I drove it anyways while waiting for the parts to come in. I think that driving it during that time was a big mistake as I now have a massive oil leak. It comes from the area of the front main seal.

It's obvious the front main is leaking, but I don't think that's the biggest leak, the leak I'm looking for. It looks like there might be something above it leaking, or something nearby. Oil gets slung around a good bit, and there are splatter marks on all the belt driven accessories and the engine compartment. I took the top cover off and looked at the timing belt. I had oil under the top cover and could tell the cam seals were at least leaking a little bit. When I try to replicate the leak when parked, it just doesn't happen. I only get the leak after driving it a while. Then, the first time I drive it down a hill, the low oil pressure message comes on and I pull over and add some oil. I drove it to a shop that I have access to and will put it on a lift soon and take a look at it.

But, I want some ideas as to what to look for when I put it on the lift. I can't tell what the exact issue is. Hoping someone here might be able to give me a list of possibilities. This is what I have so far:

* front main seal
* cam seals
* oil vent box (but I can't find it)
* oil cooler hoses (I don't think that is the problem)
* pcv system as a whole

What might be most likely? I understand that all are probably leaking, but which one would leak this massively? It's a steady drip... and when I go to add more oil, it spills right back out almost as fast as it goes in, but only when it's hot. If it's cold, I can add oil and it will hold it and just leak a few drips.

 

Ok, so it looks like the oil pump is directly behind the harmonic balancer, and there is a suction line. It might be this suction line that has come detached. anybody had any experience with this? Maybe the seal inside the oil pump behind the balancer?

 

The front cam seals go bad all the time. The one behind the VVT pulley you cannot see the seal till the pulley is off.
I would be the front seals are leaking. The crank seal rarely leaks. I have only done 2 front crank seals in 15 years.

The suction line you were asking about is inside the oil pan so that would not be the issue.

Before taking anything apart for the front seals be sure to let us know first. This way we can tell you the easiest way to get it all apart and back together.

 

Thanks alot for the reply. I will probably go ahead and order cam seals and replace. They seem borderline easy to replace, at least not horrible. The engine has 87k on it, but the timing belt seems a bit loose, stretched. The timing belt looks very easy to change, is that true? Is this an ideal time to change it? Not supposed to be changed until 105k, but the engine is a little hard starting sometimes and check engine light is on. Might be crankshaft sensor, but seems like something that would affect timing due to hard start like timing belt or crank sensor.

If my oil vent flame trap were clogged, would that have helped cause this leak?

And yes, I'd love some directions on how best to change the front cam seals. I will search forums, but would also like to see how to change timing belt, it looks so easy... I could be very wrong.

Thanks alot!

 

And will I need any special Volvo tools? Kicking around VADIS has me thinking I might actually need these tools, but can I use chalk or some other method of making sure the cams stay lined up? Maybe mark both gears with the timing belt to ensure it all goes back on right.

 

Yes if the vent system is clogged it will cause the leak.

Yes I would do the belt and pulleys at the same time.

Make this tool like explained in the post. https://volvoforums.com/forum/general-volvo-chat-5/cam-locking-tool-fabrication-38396/
Then the rest will be easy. Mark the top of each pulley to the cam cover with the belt still on.
Then remove the belt and then turn the VVT pulley all the way one way and mark it using the mark you made on the pulley. Then turn it the other way and mark again. You will then have 3 marks.(You did not mention if it was turbo or not turbo usually has exhaust as VVT N/A has it on intake cam) Then you can remove the pulleys and swap the seals. The VVT pulley has no key or anything. When you loosen the center bolt the pulley will spin freely. So when you go to install the pulley slide it on. Then try to line up the marks you used when taking it off. Then snug the center bolt up slightly and make sure all 3 marks line up like they should. If not then loosen the screw again and adjust till they line up. The Non VVT pulley I reline the pulley up using the marks from the 3 screws you removed. You can see the marks on the pulley where they were tightened before.

You should have the torque specs in the Vadis that you have.

 

Thanks alot Tech! That, along with what's in Vadis, gives me a good idea of what to do and how. I think I understand where your going on the 3 marks per pulley, I think I can find the rest of the info... you got me going in the right direction by confirming it's probably the cam seals. And yes, it's a turbo, 2.6L T6.

I will take off that cover in a few days, then put everything else back on, then drive it and pour some oil in it before I tackle this problem to confirm again it's the cam seals. I ordered the cam seals, and probably should have ordered the whole PCV system off ipdusa.com for $277 and a timing belt for $350.

 

2.8L turbo, my bad

 

Check here for the timing belt stuff. http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex...169/by_year/49

I do not see the PCV kit there though.

 

I am not sure exactly what you are trying to get at with these "three marks." Shouldn't one mark be sufficient to retime the VTT pulley? If the marks aligns then you should be good. Yes? I have got every thing torn down and replaced the intake cam oil seal with no problem, but I was just wondering what this three marks thing was all about. Any additional advice would be great. Thanks
Jason

 

There is no alignment pin between the pulley and cam. The inside section of the pulley will spin while the outside does not move. So in reality the pulley can be in a number of positions even with the mark lined up. With the center bolt tightened and if you were to center the pulley then turn each way there is like 3 teeth each way it can go.

This system is a major pain to put back together if not all marked before removing it.

 

So if the cam itself is held in place with the jig that was recommended in your original post. Thats an awesome little tool BTW! And then the VVT sprocket is marked and the three little bolts are not removed then the pulley should index properly. Yes? Or is there some part of this VVT sprocket I can't see in person or on the diagram that will move once the center bolt is out?

Jason

 

Well if you see before removing the bolt and after the belt is off the pulley will move forward and back or only back(depending on turbo or non)

That is why I said mark it before removing the belt. Then remove the belt and turn to the right and mark. Then turn to the left and mark. So this way when you go back on you can swing the pulley both ways and make sure all 3 marks line up properly.

 

OK. I think its starting to make more sense. The car is a turbo (T6) and I can see that it only moves in the backward (toward the headlights) when the belts off. I have made some marks and am going to try and remove it. Wish me luck

 

Good luck hope all goes well!

 

I take it that the center bolt on th VVT pulley is rightly tightly lefty loosely?

 

Yes it is.

 

reason I'm asking is because the Al jig that I made keeps bending the tab that goes into the end of the cam on the drivers side. Any suggestions?

 

Somehow you will have to make it stronger. Maybe double it up. The center bolt is torqued to about 86 FTLBS.

 

Ok, Don’t know if king cong or a gorilla put that center bolt on the VVT pulley but it just keeps bending the home brew holding jig. Even tried making it out of steel, but that just bends like hot butter.
I ordered the actual tool. As much as it pains me to do so, but I absolutely can’t stand all this oil leaking out of the cam seals. When I first pulled the T-belt cover it had oil flung everywhere. I cleaned up all the oil and changed in intake and crank seals, it’s just that damn VVT pulley!
I am going to put it back together for the time being until I get the jig. It was running fine, and the T-belt was changed in 2009. My question is that when I removed the T-belt both pulleys moved a couple of degrees. They were lined up with the marks just fine before I loosened the belt. If I just realign all three marks and reinstall the belt it should be timed fine. Yes?
Car in question is a 2000 S80 T6, Automatic for the USA market:
Does anyone have a tutorial with pictures of what these three marks look like and step by step instructions for this VVT pulley removal and seal change? I have been working on European cars for over 15 yrs and this has to be one of the most confusing procedures that I’ve come across. I may be opening a can of worms, but even with VADIS and the forums , this VVT cam thing is scaring me!
If I loosen the center bolt (T55) at 88ft-lb. Will the internal parts of this VVT spring loose or something? Suppose that the set up is this: factory cam holding jig is installed. Timing marks are all lined up and T-belt is still installed. Then where do I go from there? I only want to remove the VVT pulley and change that oil seal.