The whole sha Bang my run so far with my pet monster the" s80 Twin turbo 2000........

paid 5900+ tax one owner he drove it 80 miles a month for ten years= 184.000 car is mint
stored indoor whole life sunday driven

towed to my house 75$
safety and e-test 275$ srs light still on from day 1
rotors 420$ X2 199$ EACH vented\slotted
brembo pads 180$ FRONT ONLY very long to arrive in mail wont due it again but very worth it
sway bar link 112$ X2 OEM
battery 130$
alternator referb 280$
power steering flush 0$
engine coolant flush 20$
platinum BOSH plugs 120$ x6
turbo clamps 14$X4 basic pipe clamp
head light 12$ OEM
cooling fan used 110$ OEM
ball joints 240$x2 120$ each volvo OEM
oil under spray 120$ three years total
plastic wire harness eng 18$ re-covered all electrical engine wires 6-7 hours very, very carefully CAR OUT 5DAYS
elect tape 40$ the tuff sh$t
heat tape 20$ turbo pipe melted engine fan relay wire...
tools for the beast 450$
fuzes 10$
Wheel alignment 75$ placed weights on inside of rim
obd 2 scan tool 350$ confiscated
basic obd scan 108$
Cold air tube from grill
air filter box used 15$ OEM
power stering bolt free bee -3$ volvo guys are my heroes
windshield fluid t-valve 12$
ignition switch 45$ OEM
Driver Information Module(DIM) re-solder 0$
Brake pedal position sensor re-solder and electrical board cleaning 0$ (5$ silicone heat sealant)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
92% of parts listed above were for the tune up .I drive this car FAST and needed some reinsurance parts before I really punched it!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
First problem after six months of ownership

alternator= service electrical soon msg... still drivable was on my way 2 mac D's turned
around right away and went home..3am...
CAR OUT FOR 17 DAYS did fix my self for 280$ new volvo alternator 550$ plus tax no way

CONCLUSION---------WAS THE METALLIC spring loaded bar WORN down on the
voltage regulator spin rod....slowly but surly this does happen with all volvo alts ..no
more caution yellow /!\ or electrical mgs...hu hu ha haaaaaaaaaa! im am my own master of my s80....
----------------------------------------
SECOND PROBLEM twenty months ago

cooling fan= CAR OUT FOR 31 DAYS...I was on a there and back family visit from Toronto 2 Hamilton
Stopped off @ Canadian tire coming from h-town in the city.
My cousin noticed the engine fan was still on to his reply isn't that suppose 2 stop and I said with my chest
pushed out big ,,,,,,,"ya is has a computer that flushes my toilet ..fans it self after a long trip...
yaaddaa yadda" .lol..you know the drill volvo owners..!
So after 20mins or so back to her and the engine fan is still on. Right away i knew ..darn not good..
could be the central control unit..nooooo...another one is ...ITS BATTERY DRAINING TIME
FOR ALL YOU CONTESTANTS OUT THERE ..I used the plug and unplug method with wires right above
the fan shroud every time i went out ...in the end i burned the fan motor out because the
fan relay has a fail safe mode. It runs the motor @ high speed always when connected
after the relay voltatge changes + or -

Internet research 40+hours learned where all wires ran and there function in the
front end ya man 15 days almost every thing electrical wow

CONCLUSION---------The turbo pipe that runs right in front of the fan shroud and engine,
got so hot IT MELTED THE ENGINE FAN RELAY RETURN WIRE then shorted the
connection This turbo pipe touches the fan relay box or wires on all twin turbos...not happy
I did not have the cold air tube from the grill to air filter box witch meant all turbo
pipes were extremely hot =used fan 100$ cold air connector tube 15$ heat tape 20$ re-rapped
fan relay wires no more problems p.s. nothing stored in the system no faults
---------------------------------------------------
9+grand so far
--------------------------------------------------------------
THIRD problem

ignition switch 45$ = date started this ABSlight repair and forum post was May 23 2013.
This problem started April about the 14th and onward .

had abs lights go off stc lights pull over asap lights, Alarm service required /!\
battery light every thing was fine nothing wrong with the controls just lights galore and lots of panic!
...I went home next day drove for over 2
hours nothing no lights....alright it was just a fault no worries Sometimes the t6 would not
start after five days of sitting,,,,,,,,,,,"oh it cant be the new alt or
the brand new battery" i tested both, this happened 5 times or so. One time only once
on a start up the lights would come up same as before when driving ABS,STC,BRA FAILURE msg ex.

but this time the immobilizer see manual msg came up. I thought that it might have something
to due with the alarm service msg indicating a fault in the system. The car would
not start..again everybody no faults no codes stored and yes my shop again tried to pull
any codes through his crazy obd reader\abs reader....nothing ...wooooooow
.Alright ima jump soon....wink.gif

so i would disconnect the negative battery lead , clear lights on dash start up no faults
no lights no malfunction indicators nothing.....

few days later drivingdown town instrument cluster shuts off NO SPEDOM NO RPM NO TEMP..but gas gauge still fine..drove to meeting shut car off. Hour later started right up drove home nothing no lights
no malfunctions .Went on a beer run lights cam on drove it right to my shop no faults
no codes stored no nothing just lights every where.... i thought there is no way they
all failed its just mathematically impossible...........i was right in end
p.s prior to all these lights going off i had alarm service msg with a
yellow caution indicator /!\ on start up about a month before my new panic board lights
entered into my life

so i started the dreaded ABS light venture on the internet after i already spent many many
days on switches, small relay wires, CAN net and OMG what a nightmare...some of those poor
people have suffered from so many stealerships horrors..fixes with no guarantees bills
of well over a thousand dollars for new ABS modules, people pulling things off by them
self's hoping the light goes off after hundreds wow....you half to be clear average minded
to conquer this car without frustrating your self to death. a way of acting that this is
a puzzle you and me can du and i love it..

so i cleaned the battery leads with a similar story on the internet before i let loose
with a sludge hammer
what do you no......... no lights for about 23 days then on a Friday ran a bunch of arrands
and planned 2 again see family in Hamilton Ontario next day.
I went out sat morning and she was done ......absolutely no start at all .........we WAS NOT going no whairrzzz.
I pulled the ignition switch located a new part new bolts 45$ three days later my buddy in his 2012 jeep drove me up to the volvo specialty shop...(volvo guys) have many many goodies ...done 8min re-instal ...will see????

.i had alternator problems before
and when she had trouble starting i could clearly smell gas tried it only 3 times
no gas smell this time witch I ruled out my new referb alt failing , went and tested battery
with multi meter 12.85 volts she powered all right
and figured something wasint right..so i sat there boiling mad SERIOUSLY..calmed down and
started a new puzzle adventure with great fear of the ABS lights...

So my next question was before the ignition switch fix,,,,,,,,,"what controls the immobilizer and the alarm?
The immobilizer and the alarm are tied into the ignition switch and antenna ring and a few other things. MY ignition switch felt chouwed up and the internal spring would sometimes not reset. So my first repair would start at known switch problem then work my way down or up to soldering maybe and full wire inspect ?
p.s. or could it be the antenna ring?

video on youtube about v70 ignition switch repair . uploaded from a member of volvoforums

Multipal people have had hundreds of these exact problems and i bet a few
hundred s80's may be in the grave yard because of this but i will continue to
drive it with great passion if i can help in any way let me no.....

150+ HOURS spent on car total

CAR OUT FOR 4 DAYS...CONCLUSION------------- Ignition Switch COST 45$

i WAITED 7MONTH FOR THIS CAR I MADE MY CHOICE AND DREAMED FOR IT. EVERY ONE SAID DONT DUE IT but i did it, I got her....... I have driven many cars mer's bm's au, the bucket seats in the s80 are more comfortable than than a lot... i mean trust me guy's .. im not sliding when i am turning ...u dont even want me start about the engine....this car is wonder full.. 1 in 5000 are as good as mine .....thats just my feeling ....when i started driving her i was like .
I shouldent be aloud to drive this ....people like me arnt suppose to have these car's ....call the police he is driving a stolen car that cant be him.............ps i love 270hp , i love the feel ...i never drove a electric throttle before ...an it is very easy to go 220km in this 13 year old car i say no more....

Toronto Canada s80 t6 2000 .....196000 and counting polar arctic matalic tinted

.......MY FIRST CAR WAS A V7O SE WAGON 98

 

Abs, stc lights, brake failure pull over asap msg, DROVE car home stopped turned ignition off tried to turn car on with messages no start had to battery re-connect , started right up \...drove for a solid hour lights never came on.. IGNITION SWITCH WAS NOT THE FIX il get the little devil next in line is re-soldering the instrument cluster and CEM ,huge job will post asap estimated cost 25$

 

I thought you were a diagnostic genius? And a huge job? Hardly.

I'd bet you need an ABS control module, but what do I know?

 

RESPECT ES6T...went on a road trip from Toronto to Hamilton. She started right up; nothing no lightS no faults my WORD.... EVERYTHING WAS GRAVY SHE DROVE WONDER FULL the whole day nothing not a blip ...150 on the hi-way back felt like 30 minutes.. car is fun passing bmw's.......

 

BEFORE i changed the ignition switch, when ever i inserted the key in the ignition from position II to III. The key would feel chewed up inside the ignition . Sometimes the key would not springing back to position II from III after car was running ....The key would stay in position III witch is why maybe the alarm msg cam up or immobilizer had some involvement in it...After the ignition switch fix it feels tight, strong and brand new. It also springs back to key position II every time......hope this may help a volvo soul....

The ABS and the other lights i mentioned, they appeared upon start after sitting for five days post ignition switch repair. .I did the negative Battery reset and let the car fully worm up before the drive. No lights for the rest of the day. this was the third or forth time the faults lights came up.

2 days later no fault lights upon start up ( but noticed water drip spots)..went on a road trip no failure indicators

 

Your posts make my head hurt

 

ok so it rained very hard last night and I didn't give the s80 a start yesterday. I waited until two day and now when ever i insert the key from position I to II the alarm service indicator and yellow caution lamp comes up

I then disengaged the alarm msg and yellow/!\ lamp with the msg select button at the end of directional signal switcher(left side) The alarm indicator msg goes away and the car starts right up. I went on a 30minute ride and nothing not one fault indicators. The last time all the lights came on upon driving for less than 30secconds, she was sitting for 5 days. I did not disengage the alarm msg before turning the ignition key to position III (start up)
(my scanner+ the shops 25humdred dollar scanner found nothing even with or without faults........MOMENT OF CLARITY witch means only a few thing..i cant complain it went from 25 things to about 8--- so yes i love this web cite it has given me lots of confidence when attacking obstacles. very fun

BATTERY?-----------------UPDATE drove around with multimeter connected to battery (battery is 100%good
ALTERNATOR?----UPDATE drove with meter connected 2 engine block and positive battery lead (alt in my opinion is 100% good
BATTERY LEAD WIRES?-------UPDATE ran my own small current through bat wires perfect reading (leads r 100%
CLUSTER BOARD RE-SOLDER? -------UPDATE DONE
ALARM BOARD CORROSION FROM STUPID BATTERIES?------update battery fluid all over alarm siren board .will fix
ANTENNA RING?------------UPDATE ran current readings are fine. (with es6t advice i can rule out antenna ring!
ABS- wheel speed sensor front (NEW OR START WITH CLEANING ?------------------ update cleaned very very dirty
only 2 left
(CEM) connection RE-SOLDER? ??????????????????? relay22?
ABS? I'm actually excited about this one!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I didn't bother reading all that mess, but using the stalk to scroll through error messages does not erase them from the memory. It just removes them from the display.

The car didn't fix itself. It has problems typical of those early S80s, like I said before.

 

i agree with you 100% es6t
Two day my off day.. I cleaned the wheel speed sensors, pulled the alarm siren unit opened it up and what due you know. Old battery fluid was melted all over the siren internal mother board. What a mess that was I located the part for 40$ and will due the repair in a few days no rush at all !!!........AGAIN I DROVE THE CAR 440km 2 DAY =ALL WAS GOOD-----
no ABS,STC,CAUTION LIGHTS PULL OVER ASAP. MESSAGE. No fault indications what so ever.
Not a constant operational problem.! but we all can agree there is a small problem

only a few left in my opinion......
cluster board re-solder--- update job done
CEM re-solder
ABS re-solder
and one or two others that I am starting to research

 

So i went out to start the s80 after a very very heavy night of rain. The car would not start, Brake Failure pull over asap msg and all the abs lights galore. I tried to start her three times, then pulled the negative battery lead and waited 5 minutes.
Connected back up lead, without trying to start. Same messages as before so now there is definitely a problem..

The first time ever, wile driving the abs and all the other lights appeared 40sum days ago (THIS WAS the very first time) I did not turn off the car after 2 or 3 errands, went to the gas station to fill her up as usual. .I filled up with gas started the beast and the lights were gone!

So I fiddled with the gas cap with the battery disconnected, waited 5mins.
I connected the battery back up. I did the remote lock and unlock 3x Inserted the ignition key before start, waited 20 seconds herd a big clunk from behind the dash board the and lights went away.THE CAR STARTED RIGHT AWAY..I drove for 20 minutes no faults.
maybe LOW FUEL PRESSURE!!!! witch is why the car dose not start after a few days, why there was no gas smell......I bet 20grand i got low fuel pressure after sitting! and alarm problems on start up...I half to buy parts TO GO WITH the pressure meter to do test...will post asap

next in LINE.......maybe to be on the safe side is to check _ or repair
CLOGGED INJECTORS---COST CLEANING AGENTS 20$ will enjoy every minute!3hours
FUEL FILTER------60$-hose to plastic clip, metal connection (needs special volvo tool)
FUEL LiNE------------??will test asap
FUEL PUMP----------$$$ oh darn!

I truly love every second of my puzzle, my repairs so far cost me almost nothing.

p.s. I had 2 pros 1volvo and my mechanic scan\look at this car with no help what so ever!

 

Not the antenna ring.

You clearly have no idea. Listening to the fuel cap is not a way to check fuel pressure. I hope you weren't serious.

There are certainly codes stored, but you'll need a more advanced scanner (like we have at the dealer) to read the codes in all systems.

You could just pay for a proper diagnosis rather than throw parts at it.

 

I found the problem! without your advice (you said it was the ABS for what is ? ummmm 700$ now? or 1300$ plus tax NEW! from your dealership? your in an old world buddy!.....

...i hope we can all smile for our love of volvos.. AND MY S80.LOL

OTHER PEOPLE need your help, help them please

THANK YOU FOR YOUR INSIGHT YOU WHERE VERY HELPFUL ....

 

my repairs cost me next to nothing!.......ignition switch 45$ + gas is the only money I spent on the car, AFTER the cooling fan repair over 20 months ago! She has never left me stranded ever! So i have some problems but its nothing i can't handle, I'm very happy with my used thirteen year old s80 Bi-turbo!

I let 1 of my good friends drive her for the first time 2 day to get some food from Big smoke burger, its 5buk burger week in Toronto 64 restaurants. He came back all was good the first thing he said to me was what year is it again?.. i said 2000 ....he replied with........"How the Hell did you get that car its nice every thing"....

p.s. he drives a lincoln ls 2002 ....just another happy s80 post :RESPECT TO VOLVOFORUMES

 

So what was the fix?

 

I just posted many pictures of resent repairs > Im done the explaining part....

Will update the full spec of repairs in a few!

PICTURES @ torontos80t62000

 

brake pedal position sensor- 5$ dollar fix- i cleaned and re-soldered the connection cost of repair was 5$ for heat sealant

DIM- re-solder at power supply connections was a little burnt cost = 0$
No more ABS light or other lights i was having problems with!
Done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!ps i went to the volvo dealership had the car scanned for free....i asked for a complementary scan because the the SRS light was on they did it..
SRS seat belt sensor- was the only fault code ...

So that means i got the ABS bugger with a 15$ multimeter tool.....!!!!! Showing different ohms readings then that was suppose to when the lights were on from the DIM to the CEM. Resistance jumped a tiny bit pointing me maybe to the DIM as i always thought ! The Power DIM supply solder point was in need of a solder upgrade and some love and care.

Same goes for the brake pedal position sensor ohms readings.
I fastened the multimeter to the unplugged pedal sensor plug fins wile the cluster fault lights were on and pressed the brake inward and out ward. I was suppose to get a even rise and fall reading from .30 to 3.70ohms this did not happen. It stayed at 2.1ohms when the sensor was suppose to read at 3.70ohms. I took it apart for re-solder at cold solder joints , cleaned up mother board with alcohol put all back together sealed up with some crazy silicone as you can see in my pictures. I then did a resistance test with the sensor plunger, by manually pushing the plunger rod it in and out with the multimeter connected to plug port fins, readings were perfect.
Problem solved for 5$ and a few hours of my time.

 

No more ABS lights, failure indicator messages all is gravy with my s80!
No more starting problems
I fixed the problem

A dirty/cold solder inside the Brake pedal position sensor or the power connection (from)the Driver Information Module was the issue.
The average person would have scraped or traded this car by now over some simple wires, for a second time.
It would have cost thousands to repair this problem with out a whole lot of time and patience. It cost me 5$ imagine that......

 

Car is running superb should be my last post on this subject for a wile...

 

So you whant a s80....T6..... an Engine charged off a 140 horse power platform....you whant the car you shouldn't have...you whant a bi-turbo Volvo f-en torque monster ...This car im in love with is pre 04 ..By 2004 they fixed every thing trust me my nabour has an 04 s60 and I have followed every repair for ten years ..HALF. that's all I'm going to say... Model p2s are the worst. The BCM (brake control modul/ABS unit) is tied into the tranny straight from the Volvo master tec. The BCM has to match the tranny speed almost exactly. So if problem is the BCM or In other words the ABS unit, the tranny will be affected in time..... Yes itsme..My fix was a procrastination for not spending money and it actually worked out without leaving her with some grezzy fingers for weeks..My problem was the ABS\BCM. Now that my problems lights were on all the time...when the tranny started to nudge..(that's it there it is) I buffered the situation by masking and re-solderingn the ( brake position sensor ) creating a better current through the ABS system. Avoiding the inevitable my bad abs unit I pulled it apart...
Cleaned re-soldered everything ...guess what? Cost of repair -0$ just my time in labour no more cluster light fers...My time and obssision over this Volvo that I cannot afford TO MASTER...or SHOULDENT BE ALOUD TO DRIVE is my every day cruzer or ripper...My baby is elegant and very beautiful. No matter the price tag on the cougars AMG she got a big grin lookin right at me, my 15 year old car is mint.....I have sentencing in November for a mandatory minimum of three years on some self defence sheite..so all the luck to every volvo owner...bless every meal I hope I helped at least one....PS I am not selling her she is going into storage right beside the family 78 stingray waiting .....waiting ......believing .......she will rip......much thanks to all the admins you know...............................I will be back with some crazy ambition

 

My god...