Idler as well.

 

Oops, knew i was forgetting some part of it... This really is an organisational nightmare trying to find reasonable labour to do this job.. I also want it done by a someone really trained with volvo, rather than just a general mechanic

 

I hear you did you get my PM with the phone # for the shop and my other comment?

 

Yea I got it tech, thanks.. Im planning to make the drive to orlando, I just have to know when I can...
Issue is, i have to know what parts to get beforehand because I dont really want to make too many trips up I-4.. i figure il just buy all the filters now...
the timing belt will be subject to what you/your shop says about its condition,

 

I just had my engine replaced on a 2000 Volvo S80 after my tensioner failed. The used engine is out of a 2001 Volvo S80 w/ 30,0000 miles less than the original engine- total cost $4096.78.

 

DO you think in my siuation I should also change the water pump if doing the timin belt, tensioner, idler etc...
How many miles do they rate the original water pump for normally?

 

I always inspect the water pump really good. I have seen them go almost 200,000 miles on the original one.

 

Well if thats the case we will take a look at the timing belt and water pump and see what condition they are in before deciding to do any work on them...
If needed, I can order the parts and be back within a week to have it done.

 

I am finally coming back to my 2000 S80 T6 (valve damage due to timing belt slip) and we are looking at either purchasing a rebuilt head or having the original head rebuilt. I am also in Florida, there a few shops with good reputations, but is there a specific shop anyone would recommend in Florida? By the way, the closest dealer quoted me $2800+ for a new head.

 

I had my timing belt done at 117K miles on my 99 S80 2.9 last summer. By reading some of these post it seems to me that I may be one on the lucky ones since I waited so long.

 

Hye not4long, what part of florida you in? I guess that would determine where you should do the work

 

Hello nicolaselias, I am in SW Florida, I am looking at engine rebuild shops in Tampa (it's close), but would consider other shops farther away. There are shops in Tampa that have good reputations, but I've had really bad luck with this car, so I am cautious. The removal and replacement will be done by a friend who is a professional mechanic; he will be driving down to do the work. I appreciate any advice.

 

We might be able to do it but it would be best if we did the entire job.
If you want I could PM you the shop Phone # and you could call and get an estimate.
Most likely I wouldn't do the job though.
The Service manager would. He has been at this shop for over 15 years and 2 different owners.

 

That would be great, please PM me the number. When you say "entire job" you mean removal rebuild and reinstall? It would be a long, long, tow to Orlando, but at this point I am considering all of my options - I have to look at it every day, sitting there collecting dust.

 

PM sent

 

Got it, thanks, I'll call tomorrow.

 

Hi Tech,
I started this thread a while ago. I'm gong slowly and doing the work myself on the weekends for a couple of hours each Saturday. Iam at the point in the VADIS instructions to start removing the cylinder head before sending it off for the rebuild. However, I can't seem to locate the VOLVO specific tools: 5452 camshaft adjustment tool; 5451crankshaft alignment tool; 5454 cylinder head press tool; 5718 Drift for installing/sealing camshaft with VVT; and 5450 PUNCH for installing the real seal/camshaft. Can one work around not having the tools or are the tools required? The car has all new timing belt components with zero miles on them. The water pump is original with 103.5k miles. I plan on putting new gasketsand copper o-rings where ever I've removed one. What else should I replace when puttingeverything back together? Since the turbos are off should I do anything as preventative maintenance to them? Thanks,
George

 

Pretty much all you will need is the cam lock tool.
You will need to mark the pulleys after installing the tool. Then remove the pulleys.
Every thing else you can do without. Well I say that but it is really nice to have the cam cover press tool but can be done without it. At work we made one.

Check the water pump good for leaks.

Chek inside the turbo lines for oil sludge and the turbo.

 

What price do you normally see pulleys selling for...

I can get the t-belt for 45, the idler for 40, the tensioner for 55 but cheapest im seeing on the pulley is 100... any help on this will be apreciated
thanks

 

Which pulley?