These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.


Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.


Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.


Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry I don't have the Part # fro the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

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How do I know if these need to be replaced? Do I just end up with a puddle of oil under my car or is there some other internal problem that I do no know about?

 

The oil presure will drop and the low oil pressure light will come on.

 

Hi,
Does anyone know what the Volvo stated time estimate is for these instructions? Don't they quote that in their service manuals? The dealer just tried to tell me it's a 10 hour job to pull the oil pan/replace the o-rings and the cost would be about $1,100. There is now way it could take 10 hours to follow the above instructions. Right? Also, I was told that about half of the time the oil pan itself has to be replaced (~$300) because of sludge build up in the baffles. Does this sound right?

I have a feeling that Volvo quoted time is in the neighborhood of 3 maybe 4 hours. I plan on having it out with the service manager over this. I could go somewhere else but the dealer is much more convienient.

I guess I could do this myself. How hard would this be if you only had two jack stands? I didn't really see a list of required tools so I'm guessing I have every thing I need accept oil filter, set of o-rings/gaskets, gasket solvent and of course oil.

Thanks, for any advice.

 

Does this oil-pan o-ring problem eventually happen to all 99 S80s or is it some kind of manufacturing problem on some S80s. Or does it happen at a perticular millege. My 99 S80 2.9 has 94K miles on it and just by reading that it cost over a $1,000 to fix it is starting to get me a little uneasy.

 

Well, it seems to me from reading this and other forums that 99 and 2000 S80s are particularly prone to this problem. It seems to boil down to just normal wear on the rings. For what's it worth, I called an independent Volvo only shop since my above post and they said they would do it for $416 plus parts (oil, filter, o-rings,) unless the oil pan needed to be replaced then that would be another $389. Still not sure what classifies the oil pan as needing to be replaced.

 

I don't have any time on it but I would say about 4 to 5 hours.

I have never had to replace an oil pan due to sludge.

The pick up tube Yes.

It could be done in one day at home with Jackstands.

The o-rings fail with the Age of the Car.

 

Thanks Tech, I appreciate the reply.

 

No problem let me know how you make out.

 

Hey Tech, one question about this.
If the car appears to leak just sitting in the garage, even a few days after being driven, would you think it most likely would be the oil sump leaking?

 

NO
The oil pan o-rings make a tapping noise in the engine. It doesn't leak outside.

 

So if its leaking there, must just be the pan gasket.
Would the turbo line, if leaking, continue to leak even for hours after the motor is off.

 

2 things will leak and drop from the oil pan.
Turbo return line o-ring or Vent box.

I would guess the turbo return line.
Yes it will drip hours after sitting.

Could also be a rear main seal.


Best would be to Clean the entire underneath of the engine and drive it a couple of miles Hard and then look at it again.

 

Ok, on the turbo seals, are these just simple o ring type seals and is there a procedure for these? Or do you just take apart what is needed until you have access.

 

They are easy remove the Clamp between the return pipe and the coolant pipe.
Then to 2 screws holding it to the turbo.
You might have to tweek the coolant pipe a little to get it out but very easy.

 

Another thing to look for is if your low oil pressure light is comeing on. Pull the dipstick out and see if it is covered with bubbles if it is then that means the oil is aireationg from leaking oil pan seals.

 

My S80T6 has 136K miles. Seems like this car would be a candidate for this procedure. Although no symptoms as of yet. Once I get it back from the dealer, guess what I shall be scheduling.

Thanks
mark L.n

 

Don't do this job! The instructions given here leaves out a bunch of things that make this job sound easy. For example, the lower brace connected underneath the pan must be removed (this is omited in instructions). The bolt holding the fuel line not only needs to come off, but so do the upper brackets as well holding the fuel line. The oil cooler cannot be just pushed back as instructed as there is NO slack for it to be pushed back (so it will sit there next to pan). Also in the instructions, it mentions you may have to support right side of engine to remove subframe. I see a frame, but no subframe. I don't need to leave four bolts in the pan before dropping because the pan isn't going anywhere! Mine is currently sitting there until i find a way to pull it out. The makers of this car made sure you cussed up a storm to pull the pan off. The way the pan is molded, there are protrusions off the pan that get in the way when you try to pull it out. There are also other lines that get in the way of you pulling it out. Also when i clicked the link to check out the kit # for the o-rings, i get a dead end. Volvo sells this kit for $17, part #30750783 and includes all the gaskets and o-rings you will need. You will need an anaroebic liquid gasket for the pan placement. Oh yeah, the oil filter uses a 3 1/4 socket type filter tool to remove. The makers of this car made sure you couldnt use anything else. Back to work i go...when the pan will come off...no one knows. I can't wait to try to put this pan back on when it's lined with pretty liquid gasket! Well worth the $400-$500 you will spend to fix this. If you have any questions before you try this job, shout it out. I can try to help make it easier for you.

 

Well, I called an independent volvo dealer and he said i MUST drop the subframe. In the instructions it say you MAY have to. There's no instructions as to how to drop the subframe though. So i loosened the two bolts up front and 3 in the rear. The subframed dropped some but when i try to lift the engine, the subframe goes up with it. I also detached the top motormount as well. Any suggestions would be helpful. I did a search with no luck. That pan is about 2 inches away from coming out! Heeeeeeeeeeelp!
Thanks

 

I got a chance to talk to tech and he gave me some excellent instructions on how to remove subframe. You will need an engine hoist to support engine while you drop subframe. You will remove bolt near front tires on left and right side underneath car. You will remove a hydraulic mount by removing bolt located in hole in front subframe. Second hydraulic mount located between steering rack and engine viewed from back of engine underneath looking up at rack. Finally, just loosen 3 rear bolts on each side of car at rear of subframe. This will allow you to swing down subframe to remove pan. Will keep you posted on project