After all the effort, the pan would not drop down between subframe, so i removed subframe. Work was much easier and accessible after that. Now, the engine purrs with no tapping noise due to air being sucked in. Thanks again tech for your quick and helpful response.

 

Im glad you got it done and DIDN'T give up.

BTW one Day I will get into the Post above and update it.

 

you guys dont post pics when you do the jobs? how hard would you say it was if you had to do it again?

 

Sorry I posted from doing it at work.
I can't take pics at work.

It will take you a day or 2 to do the job.

 

Like anything else, it would be easier to do it again, but I would have better tools such as an engine hoist. First timers beware its a good days work, lots of sweat(lil blood), and patience. Oh yeah, messy too!

 

My s80T6 is dropping oil from the back of the engine. It does not appear to be coming from the turbo tubes. If that oil collector was leaking, would it drain down the front or side of the engine?
Thanks

When I get under it again I'll be sure to take a few pics.

 

It would leak from the front of the engine.

 

That's interesting, thanks for the information. Hopefully I can take a pic latter this week. If I remember correctly it looked like the pics from silentBob. Never heard exactly what his problem ended up being.

 

Using a little clear RTV sealant works just as well as the official Volvo anerobic sealer.

 

I have a 2000 (NON TURBO 2.9) and I had my mechanic do this job due to the notorious Stop Car/No oil pressure light. After the job the light STILL Came on. I asked him how many o-rings he replaced and he said "all 3" I thought i read somewhere there were around 5...Did he miss some? He said he did nothing around the oil pump itself. Can anyone shed light on my problem, Please...Dan

 

You need to have 5 total done.

 

I have the same car. How much did it cost?

P.S Does anyone have instructions with pictures included?

thanks
nertil

 

there are five 2 for the tube in the pan 1 for the pick up in the block and 2 from the block to the pan on the passgr side

 

no detailed guide or pictures on this repair?

 

I was going to try this but maybe not.


Oil Sump Replacement

Replacing the oil pan

Special tools: 951 1205, 999 5460, 999 5716, 999 5717





Note!
As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Preparation
Remove the oil dipstick and pipe.

Turbocharged engines only
Remove:


[*]the connector and hose from the crankcase ventilation terminal in the plastic intake pipe[*]the hose from the plastic charge air pipe[*]the screws for the charge air pipe in the intake pipe.[/ul]
Remove:

[*]the hose clamps from the plastic pipe at the rear of the engine[*]the plastic pipes. If necessary, heat carefully using a hot air gun. Leave the pipes lying on the spark plug cover.[/ul]
Installing the lifting fixture
Remove:


[*]the cover over the ignition coils[*]the 2 screws at the engine mounting.[/ul]


















[*]Install fixture 999 5717 .[/ul]
Installing the lifting beam and lifting hook on the engine lifting eyelet





Note!
Position the stand for lifting beam 999 5716 on the upper wheel arch members.


















[*]Then position the lifting beam directly above the engine lifting eyes on both sides.[*]Connect to the hole nearest the firewall. Connect lifting hook 999 5460 .[*]Tighten to light contact.[/ul]
Draining the engine oil
Remove:


[*]the lower engine cover[*]the front air baffle.[*]Drain the engine oil. Remove the oil filter.[/ul]
Removing components
Remove:



















[*]the front wheel[*]the nuts for the lower ball joints[*]the anti-roll bar links from the anti-roll bar[*]the center screw for the right-hand drive shaft[*]the screw and nuts for the steering gear[*]the screw for the front engine mounting[*]the torque rod including the mounting in the subframe.[/ul]
Removing the spindles



















[*]Tension the trailing arms together to release the spindles.[*]Use a retaining strap.[*]Unhook the right drive shaft from the wheel spindle.[*]Tension the spring strut backwards. Use a retaining strap.[/ul]
Removing components from the sub-frame



















[*]Remove the screw for the cable duct.[/ul]
Remove:

[*]the oil pipe for the steering gear from the snap fasteners along the sub-frame[*]the hose for the EVAP canister in the clips on the upper side of the sub-frame[*]any fuel line for the engine block heater and any engine block heater if mounted on the left hand side of the sub-frame[*]the air duct from the clip[*]the screw for the ground cable bracket[*]the connectors for the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) in the clips at the rear of the sub-frame.[/ul]
Lowering sub-frame



















[*]Slacken off the subframe screws. Lower the sub-frame slightly.[*]Remove the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) bracket on the reverse of the sub-frame.[*]Unscrew the screws for the sub-frame approximately 2.5 cm on the right-hand side.[*]Fully remove the screws on the left-hand side.[*]Angle the sub-frame down on the left-hand side.[*]Ensure that the screws for the steering gear release from the frame.[/ul]
Disconnecting the oil cooler

[*]Disconnect the oil cooler from the sump. Hang the oil cooler from a suitable place.[/ul]
Removing the oil pan



















[*]Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.[*]Remove the screw for the bracket for the fuel line on the auxiliaries bracket.[*]Slacken off all the screws holding the oil pan.[*]Remove all but four screws. It is recommended that the four screws in the corners of the pan are left in place.[*]Carefully tap the pan using a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.[/ul]
Remove:

[*]the four remaining screws[*]the oil sump.[/ul]
Cleaning


















Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil pan and cylinder block. Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent 116 1440.





Warning!
Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.[/b]

Note!
Also clean the gasket faces for the screws for the torque rod.
Installing the oil pan
Apply liquid gasket 116 1059-9 to the sump. Use roller 951 1205 .





Note!
Also apply liquid gasket around the holes for the screws for the torque rod.
Install



















[*]new O-rings[*]the oil sump. Secure the oil sump loosely using a few screws[*]the remaining screws loosely.[/ul]
Press the oil pan against the transmission. Tighten the screws (1), (2), (3) and (4). Tighten to 3 Nm .
Tighten the screws (5). First tighten to 25 Nm . Then tighten to 48 Nm .
Tighten all screws in the oil pan joint. Tighten to 17 Nm .
Start at the transmission and continue forwards in pairs.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump. Use new O-rings.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.

Install:



















[*]a new oil filter[*]the oil plug with a new gasket.[/ul]
Installing the sub-frame

Lift the sub-frame. Use a mobile jack.

Install:



















[*]the bracket for the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) in the rear edge of the sub-frame[*]new screw in the sub-frame. Lubricate the screws[*]the washers at the front edge and the support plates at the rear edge of the sub-frame.[*]Tighten the screws for the sub-frame. Tighten to 105 Nm .[*]Angle-tighten 120° . Use bevel protractor 951 2050 .[*]Start on the left hand side of the sub-frame. Continue with the right hand side.[*]Tighten the screws for the brackets at the rear of the subframe.[*]Tighten to 50 Nm .[/ul]
Installing components on the sub-frame
Install:



















[*]the screw for the cable and air duct[*]the oil pipe for the steering gear in the snap fasteners along the sub-frame[*]the hose for the EVAP canister in the clip on the upperside of the sub-frame[*]the engine block heater and the fuel line to the engine block heater if applicable[*]the air duct in the clips[*]the screw for the ground cable bracket[*]the connectors for the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) in the clips at the rear of the sub-frame.[/ul]
Removing retaining straps



















[*]Slacken off the retaining straps for the spring strut.[*]Thread the drive shaft into the wheel spindle.[*]Carefully release the retaining strap for trailing arms. At the same time guide the lower ball joints into the trailing arms.[/ul]
Installing components


[*]Install new nuts on the ball joints. Tighten to 80 Nm .[*]Counterhold using a Torx wrench so that the ball joint boot is not damaged.[*]Install the anti-roll bar links. Use new nuts. Tighten to 50 Nm .[/ul]


















[*]Counterhold using a Torx wrench so that the boot is not damaged.[/ul]
Install:

[*]the screw and nuts for the steering gear. Use new nuts and new screws. Tighten to 50 Nm[*]the front engine pad. Tighten to 50 Nm[*]the torque rod. Tighten the screws through the oil pan. Tighten to 50 Nm .[*]Tighten the nuts in the sub-frame. Tighten to 65 Nm[*]the center screw for the drive shaft. Use a new screw. Counterhold using a screwdriver in the brake disc vents. Tighten to 50 Nm[*]the front air baffle[*]the front wheel.[/ul]
Removing the lifting beam and the lifting hook
Remove:



















[*]the lifting beam[*]the lifting hooks[*]the lifting fixture from the engine. Install the screws in the engine mounting.[/ul]
Finishing
Install:


[*]the cover over the ignition coils[*]the oil dipstick and pipe. Use a new O-ring. Check that the O-ring is correctly positioned.[/ul]
Turbocharged engines only

Install:

[*]the plastic pipes. Tighten the hose clamps[*]the screws for the charge air pipe in the intake pipe[*]the connector and hose to the crankcase ventilation terminal in the plastic intake pipe[*]the hose to the plastic charge air pipe.[/ul]
Filling with engine oil
Fill with 6.7 liters of new engine oil.

Check
Start the engine and check for oil leakage.
Stop the engine. Give the oil time to run down into the oil pan. Then check the oil level.
Top up if necessary but do not overfill.
Wipe the engine compartment clean.
Install the lower engine cover.

 

Just an interjection here....If you are talking about the o-rings inside the pan for the pickup, they will not cause any oil to leak on the exterior. Also, you might experiance a pretty noticeable engine "ticking" either when cold or all the time eventually. This might or might not be in conjunction with a low oil pressure light. As far as dropping the subframe goes, most of the time you do have to at least slacken or tacke out the right front subframe bolt as well as slacken the other front bolt and sometimes it helps if you take out the side engine mount bolts, they are pretty easy. Then pry down on the subframe and maybe stick a 2x4 in there or something out of the way. This might help you have enough room so you will have less of a chance of scraping new gasket sealant off upon the re-installation. The kit shouldnt be too far away from about $20.00 I would say. If you are leaking oil outside the vehicle, then if it is a turbo, you most likely have turbo drain seals leaking. If It isnt a turbo then it could be anything from a rear main seal, to either of the cam seals. When I have put seals in pan I never replaced the pans. You have them out and can clean them up pretty well normally. If it is in that bad of shape, then the engine is most liely doomed anyways. Hope this helps some!

 

I have a 2000 S80 2.0 T5 and I have the same problem when RPM drops to 650-700 ish I get the NO OIL PRESSURE STOP ENGINE - msg , I am in Bangladesh and the Volvo dealer here shut down two months ago. So any help would be great My question is

A) Where can I buy the O Rings and probably its part number for my vehicle, will the ones from the US 2.8 models work?

B) Is there any problem driving the car with this situation?

C) My engine guy did clean the Oil Pressure Switch and the Lights went away and just comes on now in the morning. Possible explanation to this?


Thanks

Saad

 

If my memory serves me right every automotive shop should have a book showing how many hours to do repairs on your car. Anyway we do in Missouri..the only drawback to that is..sometimes it doesn't take that long do actually do the repair, if your a mechanic and know shortcuts.

Lets say the book shows 3 hrs for a particular job you want done to your car.. well, your going to get charged 3 hrs whether it takes your mechanic 5 mins or 3 hrs, your going to be charged 3 hrs, period. Also, if it takeshim 10 hrs, he should only charge you for 3 hrs, thats his problem if he took that long to do a 3 hr job.

GOOD LUCK and HAPPY MOTORING !!!

 

thank you very much Tech my problem is solved,

For those who do not know , my vehicle was giving NO OIL PRESSURE whenever RPM went below 700, So I did the following

*Ordered the O Ring Kit
* New Oil Pressure Switch
* Replaced 5 O Rings
*Cleaned the Oil Pan and whatever is down there (service guys know what they did)
* New Engine Oil Oil Filter etc

and DONE the car is smooth as anything. One thing the guy who did the job said out of 5 seals two of them were missing and it had some sort of glue blocking the way for oil passing. I didnt understand what he was saying. None the less my problem is solved. The O Rings Cost around $30 and labor about $40 worth in my currency (you gotta love the third world labor rates).

TC

Saad

 

Glad all is fixed now!!!!