yes i changed all and the tube was fine.

when i removed the sump...the o-ring to the filter(on the pipe) was half out almost like it was blown out and streched but when i replaced it, the fitting was snug but i felt it wasnt perfect...the pipe didnt look damaged.

maybe the pipe was ever so slightly out of shape and thats what is dropping the pressure?

 

Possible. But when there is some sludge in the motor(do not know if yours did or not)
The screen gets sucked up and damaged causing issues later. But it is usually easy to spot when looking at it.

 

I have oil leaks all around my oil pan but as I understand it there is no oil pan gasket... What do I do? I bought hte engine froma junk yard and they had dragged it around on the pan.

 

Make 100% sure the pan is leaking.

 

I recently had this o ring job done on my 2000 volvo s80 because of the stop car/ no oil pressure light -- this did fix it but now I have a ticking noise coming from my engine when I accelerate... I it had a slight tick before but this is much louder --not quite sure what I can due the shop I had it at took nearly two weeks to do the o ring job (because of every possible problem they could have had) but I don't really have the money to keep pouring into it.

 

Try a little thicker oil.

 

is is possible to add a product like STPs oil treatment until my next oil change... or is that stuff useless

 

Hey tech hope you don't mind, I added the instructions for the sub-frame removal and some of the extras that weren't included above. I know you were gonna knock it out but I was in VADIS and decided to go ahead for ya.

I think I'll let the shop do this one, its a bit too intensive for me (removing the sub-frame and the front suspension (for the most part)) haha.

Any military folks out there, make sure you check your post for a DIY Auto Center. Ft. Lewis, WA has one that's got 16 bays and 8 lift/hoist bays. 3-5 bucks an hour with staff on hand to point out mistakes.

anyway.

Replacing the sump
Special tools: 951 1205 , 999 5460 , 999 5716 , 999 5717
Note! As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.

Preparation
Remove the oil dipstick and pipe.
Turbocharged engines only
Remove:
-the connector and hose from the crankcase ventilation terminal in the plastic intake pipe
-the hose from the plastic charge air pipe
-the screws for the charge air pipe in the intake pipe.
Remove:
-the hose clamps from the plastic pipe at the rear of the engine
-the plastic pipes. If necessary, heat carefully using a hot air gun. Leave the pipes lying on the spark plug cover.


Installing the lifting fixture
Remove:
-the cover over the ignition coils
-the 2 screws at the engine mounting.
Install fixture999 5717 .


Installing the lifting beam and lifting hook on the engine lifting eyelet
Note! Position the stand for lifting beam 999 5716 on the upper wheel arch members.
Then position the lifting beam directly above the engine lifting eyes on both sides.
Connect to the hole nearest the bulkhead. Connect lifting hook 999 5460 .
Tighten to light contact.


Draining the engine oil
Remove:
-the lower engine cover
-the front air baffle.
Drain the engine oil. Remove the oil filter.


Removing components
Remove:
-the front wheel
-the nuts for the lower ball joints
-the anti-roll bar links from the anti-roll bar
-the centre screw for the right-hand drive shaft
-the screw and nuts for the steering gear
-the screw for the front engine mounting
-the torque rod including the mounting in the sub-frame.


Removing the spindles
Tension the trailing arms together to release the spindles. Use a retaining strap.
Unhook the right drive shaft from the stub axle. Tension the spring strut backwards. Use a retaining strap.


Removing components from the sub-frame
Remove the screw for the cable duct.
Remove:
-the oil pipe for the steering gear from the snap fasteners along the sub-frame
-the hose for the EVAP canister in the clips on the upper side of the sub-frame
-any fuel line for the engine block heater and any engine block heater if mounted on the left hand side of the sub-frame
-the air duct from the clip
-the screw for the ground cable bracket
-the connectors for the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) in the clips at the rear of the sub-frame.


Lowering sub-frame
Slacken off the subframe screws. Lower the sub-frame slightly.
Remove the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) bracket on the reverse of the sub-frame.
Unscrew the screws for the sub-frame approximately 2.5 cm on the right-hand side.
Fully remove the screws on the left-hand side.
Angle the sub-frame down on the left-hand side.
Ensure that the screws for the steering gear release from the frame.


Disconnecting the oil cooler
Disconnect the oil cooler from the sump. Hang the oil cooler from a suitable place.


Removing the sump
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.
Remove the screw for the bracket for the fuel line on the auxiliaries bracket.
Slacken off all the screws holding the sump.
Remove all but four screws. It is recommended that the four screws in the corners of the pan are left in place.
Carefully tap the pan using a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove:
-the four remaining screws
-the oil sump.


Cleaning
Clean the gasket surfaces on the sump and cylinder block. Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent 116 1440.
Warning! Use a fume bonnet or extractor when using gasket solvent.
Note! Also clean the gasket faces for the screws for the torque rod.


Installing the sump
Apply liquid gasket 116 1059–9 to the sump. Use roller 951 1205 .
Note! Also apply liquid gasket around the holes for the screws for the torque rod.
Install
-new O-rings
-the oil sump. Secure the oil sump loosely using a few screws
-the remaining screws loosely.
Press the sump against the gearbox. Tighten the screws (1), (2), (3) and (4). Tighten to 3 Nm.
Tighten the screws (5). First tighten to 25 Nm. Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint. Tighten to 17 Nm. Start at the gearbox and continue forwards in pairs.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump. Use new O-rings.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Install:
-a new oil filter
-the oil plug with a new gasket.


Installing the sub-frame
Lift the sub-frame. Use a mobile jack.
Install:
-the bracket for the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) in the rear edge of the sub-frame
-new screw in the sub-frame. Lubricate the screws
-the washers at the front edge and the support plates at the rear edge of the sub-frame.
Tighten the screws for the sub-frame. Tighten to 105 Nm.
Angle-tighten 120°. Use bevel protractor 951 2050 .
Start on the left hand side of the sub-frame. Continue with the right hand side.
Tighten the screws for the brackets at the rear of the sub-frame. Tighten to 50 Nm.


Installing components on the sub-frame
Install:
-the screw for the cable and air duct
-the oil pipe for the steering gear in the snap fasteners along the sub-frame
-the hose for the EVAP canister in the clip on the upperside of the sub-frame
-the engine block heater and the fuel line to the engine block heater if applicable
-the air duct in the clips
-the screw for the ground cable bracket
-the connectors for the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) in the clips at the rear of the sub-frame.


Removing retaining straps
Slacken off the retaining straps for the spring strut. Thread the drive shaft into the stub axle.
Carefully release the retaining strap for trailing arms. At the same time guide the lower ball joints into the trailing arms.


Installing components
Install new nuts on the ball joints. Tighten to 80 Nm.
Counterhold using a Torx spanner so that the ball joint boot is not damaged.
Install the anti-roll bar links. Use new nuts. Tighten to 50 Nm.
Counterhold using a Torx spanner so that the boot is not damaged.
Install:
-the screw and nuts for the steering gear. Use new nuts and new screws. Tighten to 50 Nm
-the front engine pad. Tighten to 50 Nm
-the torque rod. Tighten the screws through the sump. Tighten to 50 Nm. Tighten the nuts in the sub-frame. Tighten to 65 Nm
-the centre screw for the drive shaft. Use a new screw. Counterhold using a screwdriver in the brake disc vents. Tighten to 50 Nm
-the front air baffle
-the front wheel.


Removing the lifting beam and the lifting hook
Remove:
-the lifting beam
-the lifting hooks
-the lifting fixture from the engine. Install the screws in the engine mounting.


Finishing
Install:
-the cover over the ignition coils
-the oil dipstick and pipe. Use a new O-ring. Check that the O-ring is correctly positioned.
Turbocharged engines only
Install:
-the plastic pipes. Tighten the hose clamps
-the screws for the charge air pipe in the intake pipe
-the connector and hose to the crankcase ventilation terminal in the plastic intake pipe
-the hose to the plastic charge air pipe.
Filling with engine oil
Fill with 6.7 litres of new engine oil.


Check
Start the engine and check for oil leakage.
Stop the engine. Give the oil time to run down into the sump. Then check the oil level.
Top up if necessary but do not overfill.
Wipe the engine compartment clean.
Install the lower engine cover.

 

Thank You.

 

Volvo 2000 S80 non-turbo

I got a scissor jack holding up under the transmission pan. another jack holding up the sub-frame under the passenger side front tire. I got a 2x4 block of wood shimmed between the right subframe and the motor mount (right under the crank pulley.

All subframe bolts are taken off, yes, all. But still I can't remove the pan. I don't have an engine hoist, is it absolutely needed to hold up the engine for the sub-frame to drop further? It seems the subframe had already dropped out of it's guide pin, how much more?

My question: Must I spend the money and buy an engine hoist? Is that my only option? The pan is hanging loosely right now, I can't go forward nor backward as I can't re-seal it without taking it out.

 

Oh how I was wrong thinking this could be done without an engine hoist/lifter. I ended Saturday thinking I could never get this thing back together. Early Sunday morning, bought and engine hoist for $200, took all the sub-frame bolts out and have it hanging. I'm talking about at least 10 inches drop for the front sub-frame. I even had to remove the right hand side engine mount to give it more room. But in order to do that, I had to remove the crank damper pulley. YOU CAN NOT DO THIS WITH JUST JACK STANDS, DON'T DO IT! Here are some pictures so you know what to expect if you decide to do it.

 

How can a weekend mechanic rent the Volvo Special Tools in Hawaii? Have you fashioned your own engine hook out of bolts and a chain? If so, was it secure and stable?

 

From the picture, I used a scissor jack with a piece of 2x4 under the transmission. The engine hoist was holding up at the hook right next to the timing belt cover. I didn't have any other special tools other than the engine hoist. The engine hoist came with the chain and hook on it. The hook didn't go through the hole at the hook point, but I felt it was secure enough that I didn't mind. I actually shook the front of the car a little to make sure it was stable enough.

That's it, have fun. It's 2 AM here in CA.

 

I'm at the end of this project right now, and it is frustrating, thanks for the pictures. Looks like you only have the passenger side tire off, is it possible to only have to drop the one side of the frame to wedge this sump back in.

 

I don't think that's possible only dropping one side of the sub-frame. In my case, I had to removed all sub-frame bolts, you can clearly see this in my pictures. It must had been held up by steering links and other motor mounts. I didn't have a need to remove the driver side tire.

Note: I used vaseline to hold up the gaskets/rings and asked my wife to pay attention to the rings while I tried to reinstall the pan. Make sure you practice putting the pan back before apply seals/rings for the final install.

Also: Afterward, I heard clicking noise coming from the engine consistence with the engine acceleration while driving. Then, Tech told me to make sure the rubber boot is attached to the bearing on the steering column. This came off when I dropped the driver side of the sub-frame. You'll see it when you look just above the brake pedal from inside the car.

 

So I just started hearing a clicking noise inside the head and checked my oil and I was down a couple quarts. So I went under the car and have this nice trail of oil coming off the front of the oil pan. Has anybody else had this issue? I got this car about a year ago and this is my first issue. Thanks.

 

1999 S80 2.9 (non turbo) with approximately 107,000 miles.

I finished this a few days ago and so far no leaks. Hopefully I'm good to go. I'll add my experience to the knowledge base. After reading this thread I decided to do the job in my garage and did not plan on finishing in a day.

• 4 hours on first day to get the car up on ramps, disconnect everything, and unbolt the pan. I couldn't remove the pan because the sub-frame was in the way. I decided to re-read everything and sleep on it.
• Approximately 12 hours the second day.
  • 2 hours: when I re-read I saw that I had not lowered the sub-frame according to Volvo's instructions. I also took go2shark's advice and removed the harmonic stabilizer and engine mount. Wow, that made a huge difference. I only had to remove the sub-frame bolts on the passenger side (USA). At this point it was very easy to remove the pan.
  • 1 hour: cleaning the pan.
  • 2 hours: I went over everything and discovered that I had the wrong sealant. The parts store sold me Reinzosil-t and assured me it was the same stuff. The store even put a part # sticker on it that says VOL-1161059. But after spending so much time on this I wanted to make sure. It's not the same! I would have been so freakin' mad if I had gone through with it. So I had to call around and drive to a Volvo dealership 15 miles away to get the last tube for $43. I can't imagine doing this job with the cheap stuff. The cheap stuff cost me $8. Before I started tearing in to things I thought all sealant is the same but after I got into it I started thinking about the torment I'd feel if I had to do all of this work again because I went cheap on the sealant. Spend $30 or $40 more and get it right so you don't have to do this ever again. Just do it.
  • 1 hour: dead waste of time! I went to the hardware store and got some all-thread bolts to use as guides so that when I had the gasket on I could just push the pan up and have it aligned perfectly. Unfortunately, though I had enough room to lower the pan, when I put the guide pins in I didn't have enough room to get the angle right. I fought for a while but then had to take them out.
  • 30 min: replaced the seals throughout. My kit had a bunch of different parts and none labeled, so I had to piece together some of the old seals and match them up. In the end it was pretty obvious what went where but I was a little stressed when I first opened the bag.
  • 30 min: I practiced putting the pan in dry until I could do it without bumping the surface that would have the gasket sauce applied. As someone else advised, I think this was a critical step.
  • 1 hour: installed the pan. I used Vaseline to hold the O-rings in place as suggested by go2sharks and it worked like a charm. Unfortunately we didn't have any in the house so my better half made a run to the store as I was covered in oily filth. Another vote for planning ahead. With the mount and harmonic stabilizer removed it was easy for her to keep an eye on the new O-rings as I raised the pan into position (another suggestion by go2sharks, I think). TIP: Have a stick or something you can wedge up between the bottom of the pan and the ground. The pan is light but it's a bear to hold it up and not slide it around while you're trying to thread the first few bolts in. I was wishing I had taken the time to make some kind of support, but maybe it would've gotten in the way. I followed Volvo's directions for which bolts to start with, etc. and used the recommended torque. The pink sealant squeezed out a bit all around. It was a beautiful sight to see.
  • Approx 3 hours: putting everything back together. With all of the jacking, the engine had moved around and I had to use a long prybar to move it forward enough to reinstall the engine mount. I had to use a shorter pry-bar underneath behind the transmission to move it forward so I could install the stabilizer/mount that goes on the bottom of the pan.
  • 1 hour: start to fill with oil, then felt like an idiot because I hadn't reinstalled the dipstick but managed to put it back before any oil came out of the open hole. Took a test drive, then felt like a #%@&ing idiot because I hadn't torqued the drain bolt and was getting some seepage which damn-near gave me a heart attack! Then more test drives.

So probably 3 or 4 hours of this job were because I wasn't prepared like I thought I was.

I hate this car (don't get me started). I did the job because I had the low oil pressure warning and decided that if I couldn't fix it myself I would put the $1000+ repair cost into a different car. Since the parts were around $100 including new oil I thought I'd give it a shot after all the info I gleaned from this thread.

After 150 [EDIT 400] [Another EDIT 2,000] miles of driving I don't get the low pressure warning and there are no leaks underneath. The car used to tick and now that's gone. I used to go through oil faster than I was comfortable with but while I was doing this job I found that there was a leak on the rear side of the pan and the seals were leaking at the oil cooler. With those leaks resolved I think my oil "consumption" will lessen, but time will tell [EDIT there is still a little oil loss but I think it's been reduced by at least 75% if not 90%]. In the past I had noticed little bubbles when I checked the oil. From this thread I learned that is a symptom of leaking O-rings inside the pan [EDIT after 2,000 miles still no bubbles, as would be expected]. Both of my O-rings appeared to have failed, as well as the rubber gasket coming from the top of the oil filter. When I check the oil now it's strange because it's so clean and it actually looks like oil (heh-heh).

I still hate the car, but it runs better than it has in years. I feel confident that I'll get another year out of it, which is my goal. [EDIT I'm starting to not hate the car as much.]

Thank you again to the community and the individuals who took the time to post such helpful info. I would not have been successful without your input.

 

The oil pan o rings create a hitting disturbance in the motor. It doesn't flow outside. So you should have to go your nearest garage or service centre and check your oil tank.

 

Such helpful information. My husband and I are going to do the o-ring job starting tomorrow. Does anyone know the weight of the engine? The reason I ask is because we had our trusses in the garage reinforced to hold heavy weight but it does have its limitations. Edited in.....trusses in garage did the trick. We just distributed the weight over several trusses with a steel bar and all was fine. This is what we found for a bad oring in the oil pan

 

I thought this was needed on my 850 last year. Had quite a nasty 'knock' top end on firing up which went away within 5 seconds or so.

I tried one of those Wynns additives and slapped that in with fresh oil. Sorted for a week or so and the 'knocking' returned.

I resigned myself to needing to do this dreaded job..... I found this write up :
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...ic.php?t=31236
Intending to follow it.

I even got as far as buying the seal kit from Volvo. I bought some Dirko sealant, having read others had used it with success.

Then, someone asked which oil grade I'd been using. Well, I'd been putting in 5w/40 100% every 6k for the 2 years I had my 850 2.5 N/A .

"Put 10w/40 in it, thats what they were designed to used" , was the shout.

Well feeling a tad nervous about the job, I did another oil change a few days later, using Elf-competition 10w/40 Semi-Synthetic. After that the knock reduced and over about a week it went away completely.

Now 13 months on, sticking with the Elf oil my car purrs into life.... the seal kit & Dirko are still on the shelf in my shed

Thanks for the thread, great advice here!