Oxygen Sensor, sensor 1 bank 2
#1
Oxygen Sensor, sensor 1 bank 2
Hi,
My 99 S80 has a check engine light (CEL) that indicates the oxygen sensor (sensor 1, bank2) went bad. Which one is sensor 1 bank 2? I was told the sensor 1 is the one before catalyst, but I don't know which side is bank 2.
The air filter and vacuum hoses are still pretty good and also cleaned up the mass air flow sensor with a CRC electronic cleaner. But, I still have CEL. I am going to look at spark plugs to find out engine combustion. Do you guys have any suggestions before replacing a new oxygen sensor? I think an oxygen sensor is pretty reliable, and often the CEL was caused by something else.
Can anybody post the oxygen sensor location and replacement procedures from VADIS? Thanks in advance.
My 99 S80 has a check engine light (CEL) that indicates the oxygen sensor (sensor 1, bank2) went bad. Which one is sensor 1 bank 2? I was told the sensor 1 is the one before catalyst, but I don't know which side is bank 2.
The air filter and vacuum hoses are still pretty good and also cleaned up the mass air flow sensor with a CRC electronic cleaner. But, I still have CEL. I am going to look at spark plugs to find out engine combustion. Do you guys have any suggestions before replacing a new oxygen sensor? I think an oxygen sensor is pretty reliable, and often the CEL was caused by something else.
Can anybody post the oxygen sensor location and replacement procedures from VADIS? Thanks in advance.
#3
RE: Oxygen Sensor, sensor 1 bank 2
Thanks, Tech. I replaced all new spark plugs today, and didn't get CEL for the first two drivings. I thought I fixed this CEL issue, but the CEL came back for the third driving. Hence, I think I need to replace the front oxygen sensor (sensor 1) for the driver side (Bank 2). The oxygen sensor costs around $200, but I got about $500 estimation for this oxygen sensor job from a local dealer. My questions are
1) How difficult to replace the oxygen sensor? I did timing belt change, idler pulley, serpentine belt all by myself. I think I can loan oxygen sensor tools from an Autozone.
2) Anybody can give me time estimation to complete this job by using regular 2.5 ton jacks ? Please post procedures to replace the oxygen sensor if you can. Thanks in advance.
1) How difficult to replace the oxygen sensor? I did timing belt change, idler pulley, serpentine belt all by myself. I think I can loan oxygen sensor tools from an Autozone.
2) Anybody can give me time estimation to complete this job by using regular 2.5 ton jacks ? Please post procedures to replace the oxygen sensor if you can. Thanks in advance.
#4
#5
RE: Oxygen Sensor, sensor 1 bank 2
Thanks, Tech. I called a local independent Volvo shop to replace the bank 2 oxygen sensor 1. I got $415 quote($220 for part) from the shop, but only replacing the bank 2 oxgen sensor 1 without any diagnostics. They said they usually charge $95 for check-ups. In addition, I need to wait two days for my appointment.
Hence, I simply drove to a local Volvo dealer, and I was told $101 for check-up the CEL (there will be no check-up charge if I repair it there). There was also Vovlo ETM software upgrade recall. So, I signed up for the Check Engine Light (CEL) check up. There was no charge for the recalled ETM software upgrade. In fact, I got the Service Light Warning for last several months. I think I don't have to replace the expensive oxygen sensor if I paid an attention to the Service Light Warning signal. I simply neglected it. As you know, improper Air/Fuel mixture by ETM software can contaminate oxygen sensors.
I was told the bank 2 oxygen sensor 1 was bad exactly like the Autozone OBD II code reading. The total oxygen sensor repair cost was $432 ($260 for oxygen sensor and gasket). The ETM software upgrade may resolve the CEL issue. Anyway, I am happy now since I don't see the CEL anymore. Thanks.
Hence, I simply drove to a local Volvo dealer, and I was told $101 for check-up the CEL (there will be no check-up charge if I repair it there). There was also Vovlo ETM software upgrade recall. So, I signed up for the Check Engine Light (CEL) check up. There was no charge for the recalled ETM software upgrade. In fact, I got the Service Light Warning for last several months. I think I don't have to replace the expensive oxygen sensor if I paid an attention to the Service Light Warning signal. I simply neglected it. As you know, improper Air/Fuel mixture by ETM software can contaminate oxygen sensors.
I was told the bank 2 oxygen sensor 1 was bad exactly like the Autozone OBD II code reading. The total oxygen sensor repair cost was $432 ($260 for oxygen sensor and gasket). The ETM software upgrade may resolve the CEL issue. Anyway, I am happy now since I don't see the CEL anymore. Thanks.
#7
Due to the age of your vehicle, I would recommend changing all sensors. The parts are not that expensive but the labour is pretty high considering the exhaust needs to come down.
I am not an expert but had a similar problem in my S80 2000 and this is what was recommended by Volvo as once one sensor develops a fault, others compensate and thus get weak.
Best of luck.
I am not an expert but had a similar problem in my S80 2000 and this is what was recommended by Volvo as once one sensor develops a fault, others compensate and thus get weak.
Best of luck.
#9
Thanks, Tech. I called a local independent Volvo shop to replace the bank 2 oxygen sensor 1. I got $415 quote($220 for part) from the shop, but only replacing the bank 2 oxgen sensor 1 without any diagnostics. They said they usually charge $95 for check-ups. In addition, I need to wait two days for my appointment.
I couldn't change sensors while exhaust was attached to car.
I think this can be done in 2-3 hours by non mechanic if you have the right tools.
#11
#12
02 sensor replacement
I have a 1998 Volvo 70 station wagon, car is in great shape but I need the sensor replaced for inspection and was told that the exhaust will have to be dropped down. I already have the new sensor, will this be an expensive job? Thanks
#13
i also have a 1998 volvo v70. replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires and the car ran good for a few days. now it runs ruff at 70 mph, the CEL came on and autozone said code P0171 indicates bank 1 system is too lean for a predetermined period of time.
the print out also indicated that ASE technicians have seen this issue your time of vehicle and the most likely solution is faulty vacuum hoses. the store guy thought i might need an O2 sensor. i know the vacuum line broke a few months ago. now i need to replace the vacuum lines. now the engine will not turn over. i charged the battery and nothing but bright dash lights. i will check the elec connection of the thin wire to the terminal on the starter. i think there is a ground strap between the body and the chassis or between the engine and the chassis or somewhere that often fails. does anyone know about this or it's location?
the print out also indicated that ASE technicians have seen this issue your time of vehicle and the most likely solution is faulty vacuum hoses. the store guy thought i might need an O2 sensor. i know the vacuum line broke a few months ago. now i need to replace the vacuum lines. now the engine will not turn over. i charged the battery and nothing but bright dash lights. i will check the elec connection of the thin wire to the terminal on the starter. i think there is a ground strap between the body and the chassis or between the engine and the chassis or somewhere that often fails. does anyone know about this or it's location?
#17
What is your question about changing the O2 sensors?
For some background, the main thing is the front and rear sensors have two different jobs on the I5 engines - the front does the "lambda" control for the fuel mixture, the rear monitors the catalytic converters efficiency by allowing the ECU to compare the oxygen levels before and after the cat. If you are getting a check engine light code (or more than one), then you need to research possible causes. Generally you shouldn't need to change both O2 sensors at the same time but if you are replacing the cat or doing work on the downpipe or flex pipe then its a good time to stick a new part in.
For some background, the main thing is the front and rear sensors have two different jobs on the I5 engines - the front does the "lambda" control for the fuel mixture, the rear monitors the catalytic converters efficiency by allowing the ECU to compare the oxygen levels before and after the cat. If you are getting a check engine light code (or more than one), then you need to research possible causes. Generally you shouldn't need to change both O2 sensors at the same time but if you are replacing the cat or doing work on the downpipe or flex pipe then its a good time to stick a new part in.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post