Okay, if you want to do this, I assume you have are able to turn big bolts and use air tools. I guess it's possible without air tools, but much much more labor. This is intended as technical tips forbeginners like mewhoventured this far. If you are the type that thinks you can do it, then I really think you can.

Upper Motor Mount: This one, you don't need air tools.

Dealer wanted $280 for this. So I got the part online for $25 and 30 mins of handy man labor and it's done.

1) Remove the bolt holding the motor mount. Remove the 4 bolts from the end of the big metal bar going across that your motor mount is attached to. These 4 bolts are the ones screwed straight down to the wheel housing (body) 2 from each side.
2) Knock out the motor mount from the engine housing. Since mine was broken, knocking out the middle portion was easy. Then I used a big flat screw driver and a hammer to break off bushing ring that still stuck on the housing. Once a portion of it breaks, the rest are loose and can be taken off easily.
3) I used motor oil to spread around the mount housing so the new bushing would slide in easier. I also used a small hammer and tapped around the bushing to make it go in. Depend on the bushing you buy, mine has a metal tube in the middle where the bolt goes through. I used a socket equal to its size and tapped the tube over so that it's center from both side.
4) Now just reinstall everything, going backward. Good luck!

Upper Strut Mount Bushing: $20 each online. This one, I suggest you use air tools.

1) Must have: spring compressor, torx sockets
2) If you take on this job, you should know how to take things off and put them back. I only did this on my front right, so my tips was resulted from it.
3) So here are some tips beside the obvious bolts and screws. I had to remove the sensor that bolted on to the spindle with a 10mm socket. This made it easier for me to remove the strut after loosing it. I moved the strut toward the rear to remove it. When reinstalling this sensor, make sure to put the bolt on the sensor then lower it down to bolt it in. I happened to dropped the bolt down the sensor hole and was able to get it out, scared me there, so be careful.
4) At first, I couldn't tell the bushing was bad when I had the strut removed. Then I noticed the metal tube in the middle of the bushing was actually broke away from the rubber. And this is what caused the noise like a loose strut when you hit pothole. When remount the strut, align it back to the same marking visible due to dirt. At least this help me, I'm not sure if I need to do "alignment" but so far it drives straight.

Again, I'm not a mechanic, just an IT guy.
Don't PM me, I hardly come on here.
Please feel free to add or answer if you know.

 

I replaced my strut bushing a couple of weeks ago, doesn' tmake that noice when I hit a pothole, but it does make a small popping popping noise when I make turns everyonce in a while, could it be possible that I didn't tighten something right, or perhaps the spring didn't seat properly on the spring??? I'm thinking of taking it out again this weekend to inspect it. This part breaks after about 40K on my volvo, so far I've replaced both, and something tells me it won't be the last time. Seems to be a design flaw. What do you think tech?? could I have left something a little loose or could there be another bushing going bad?

 

Possibly.
But does it only happen when the wheel is turned all the way?
Are the sway bar links good?

 

There's no real pattern to the clunk, you can actually feel something bumping against the floor board from inside the car.

 

Possible the nut not tight enough as well.

 

You mean the big nut that you can see under the hood?? I tightened that one w/ an impact tool, but I'll take it out this weekend, maybe I missed something.

 

No the one under the Big nut.
The funny looking nut.

 

yes, it's like the red-cross simple but it's yellowish metalic.
And yes, a funky lookingnut.

 

Hey tech I took it apart this weekend and the funny looking nut seemed pretty tight. I put it together and now it's making more noise than before, well only when it go over big pumps and when you turn, when you I turn I can feel some movement beneath the floorboards on the driver's side. I've taken this strut out so many times, it's gotten to the point where I can take it out and put it back together in about 30 minutes. Funny how Volvo dealerships will charge you about 800 to replace this 40 dollar part, and if they get it in wrong, it'll take the world for them to admit it or fix their mistakes.

 

Is the spring lined up like it should be?

 

I took it apart one more time, the funny looking nut is on really tight, I realigned the spriong w/ the strut and the spring seat and then tightened the top nut w/air tools. Can't hear it too much, until you go over a big bump or a pot hole, there's still a small popping noise. Could it be that it's time for new struts? checked my ball joints, sway bar, bushings, all look good.

 

It could either be the strut which I have seen or the top bearing plate.

 

Somehow I do think it's the top bearing plate. The stut looks in good condition considering the car almost has 100K. Now should the top plate be touching the spring seat whent the spring is compressed?? The spring seat and the plate touch once I de compress the spring, it just seemed funny to me that the funny looking nut kept them apart when during compression. I think I'll change out both plates when I put in new struts, could I damage something if I wait that long?

 

I'm still watching this thread closely since the noises in my syspension had not completely gone away.
Just the other day, I noticed noises from my sunroof. I didn't think it was from there until I opened the cover under the sunroof. Since the cover insulated the rattling sound, I thought it came from my suspensions.

Give it a check, since these sounds only happened going over pot holes and uneven roads, it could be mistaken for suspension problems. This answered part of my noise problem but not all.

 

mine makes noise when I go over uneven terrain, almost like it's loose. Yet I've checked it and it looks fine. The car doesn't make too much noise over the potholes, just enought to annoy me. she also feels funny when I turn the wheel almost like a joint that's a little rough. I guess when you get used to a smooth ride, you can feel little things. Now in my Dodge, you'd have to kit it w/ a sledge hammer to feel anything, theres so much commotion there

 

You won't hurt anything waiting.
Can you get it to make noise pushing on the front end while sitting still?
Push slightly and try to listen and feel for a noise.
Alot of times when the strut goes bad you can make it happen sitting still.

 

I tried it last night, no noise all seems okay. I'll just try to avoid big potholes until I can replace these components. I must admit, except for the springs, she's really easy to work on when it comes to suspension. When it comes to electronics, she's something else.

 

JPizano23: I found this info below, let us know the result if you decide to do it. I didn't put any grease on the seat when I did mine (BTW, I only changed the right front).

{
No - not another tale of woe re noisy front suspension but a success story.

After 3 years of listening to clunks, bangs and boings from the front of my S80 and being told by lots of different garages that they couldn't find the fault (apart from strut top mounts both sides twice) I found a thread on another board regarding the springs moving around in their seats.

Apparently the springs don't move smoothly in their seats on turns but can catch causing the strange noises when they return.

Bit of grease in the spring seats and all the noises have gone!
}

 

yeah that does make sense, I'll try that. The guys at the hobby shop on base think it's funny that I've taken both struts out twice and can't fix it. I live up north, they don't even know what a Volvo is. I took her to Sears to get a new battery and they couldn't conprehend that the model was an S80 not a 1980, ridiculous. I got about three weeks left in Montana and I hope to never see this state again

 

There is a repair procedure for the subframe when you feel a knock in your break pedal or floor.
You have to add two O-rings between bolts of the subframe.

S80-2-21-0030
Ter informatie:
There can be a knocking sound with bumpy roads or by turning the weels. The sound occurs because the rear bushes of the subframe move in the subframe.
It concerns following models:
AutomodelFabriekscodeChassisnummer
S80VTM=1000580-137346

Materiaal:
Beschrijving Aantal O/N
O-ring 2 8638585
Schroef 2 981062 schroef= screw
Subframebus, kloppend geluid


Or a vibration of 340 HZ coming from the front wheel
S60/V70 (00-)/S80 -7-72-0006
Ter informatie
Resonantiegeluid (340 Hz) kan voorkomen vanuit het wiel en wordt overgedragen via de veerpoot. Rubberen veerplaten (isolatieplaten) zijn ontwikkeld als service-oplossing.
Dit Service Bulletin beschrijft hoe de isolatieplaten bevestigd moeten worden.
Materiaal
Beschrijving Aantal O/N
Veerplaat, boven 2 30666314 (new) (isolationplate of rubber)
Veerplaat, onder 2 30666315 (new)
Flensborgmoer 6 971100 (moer=nut)
Flensborgmoer 2 969494
Flensborgmoer 6 948645
Vulring 6 976944
Onderstelbescherming 0,19510226

Veren = spring
Sorry for the Dutch.
I have got, if wanted, two .PDF from vadiswith pictures