O2 Sensor - same code after installing the new one
#1
O2 Sensor - same code after installing the new one
Hi,
I Have 2000 Volvo S80, 2.9, non-turbo.
I had the following codes:
P1133 HO2S Insufficient Switching Sensor 1
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0171 Fuel Trim too Lean (Bank 1)
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
I replaced O2 sensor (passenger side, rear sensor - after catalytic converter).
I used Bosch 16198 sensor.
I got 'check engine' again (after clearing all codes).
Now I have the following codes:
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P1133 HO2S Insufficient Switching Sensor 1
Could it be that I replaced wrong sensor (that bank1 is not passenger side)?
Or is it something else?
Thanks in advance for help.
Krle
I Have 2000 Volvo S80, 2.9, non-turbo.
I had the following codes:
P1133 HO2S Insufficient Switching Sensor 1
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0171 Fuel Trim too Lean (Bank 1)
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
I replaced O2 sensor (passenger side, rear sensor - after catalytic converter).
I used Bosch 16198 sensor.
I got 'check engine' again (after clearing all codes).
Now I have the following codes:
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P1133 HO2S Insufficient Switching Sensor 1
Could it be that I replaced wrong sensor (that bank1 is not passenger side)?
Or is it something else?
Thanks in advance for help.
Krle
Last edited by Krle; 03-26-2010 at 11:33 PM.
#2
#3
i had a very similar problem,
when i bought the car it had two o2 codes, front driver side and rear driver side, i had them both replaced, a week later the check engine light goes on, same codes, the mech clears and a week later same code comes up
this continued to happen for about 2 months and has not come back since...
i know this might not help you, but the codes may go away, there is nothing else you can do i think, unless you want to buy new sensors.... i used bosch sensors btw
when i bought the car it had two o2 codes, front driver side and rear driver side, i had them both replaced, a week later the check engine light goes on, same codes, the mech clears and a week later same code comes up
this continued to happen for about 2 months and has not come back since...
i know this might not help you, but the codes may go away, there is nothing else you can do i think, unless you want to buy new sensors.... i used bosch sensors btw
#4
Thank you so much for your answers.
I did not do work myself. I ordered sensor from amazon.com, and gave it to my mechanic. I checked the codes and told him which sensor to replace. The sensor I bought was recommended on many web sites as the rear sensor for Volvo S80. It has the same connector as the original, at least. Also many web sites specify that bank 1 sensor 2 is the passenger side rear sensor.
I did not mention that the car works perfectly as long as I let it idle for two minutes before I drive it. But this was the case also before I replaced the sensor. During that idling period, the car shakes a bit from time to time, having different rumbling. When everything becomes quiet, than I can drive it and 'check engine' light will not go on (assuming I clear messages before starting the car). If I drive the car immediately, than it does not have power in first couple of minutes. It takes forever to accelerate.
I had O2 sensor code for a month or two before I got this behavior (not having enough power, shaking ...), and the behavior is still present after replacing the sensor.
I will appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Krle
I did not do work myself. I ordered sensor from amazon.com, and gave it to my mechanic. I checked the codes and told him which sensor to replace. The sensor I bought was recommended on many web sites as the rear sensor for Volvo S80. It has the same connector as the original, at least. Also many web sites specify that bank 1 sensor 2 is the passenger side rear sensor.
I did not mention that the car works perfectly as long as I let it idle for two minutes before I drive it. But this was the case also before I replaced the sensor. During that idling period, the car shakes a bit from time to time, having different rumbling. When everything becomes quiet, than I can drive it and 'check engine' light will not go on (assuming I clear messages before starting the car). If I drive the car immediately, than it does not have power in first couple of minutes. It takes forever to accelerate.
I had O2 sensor code for a month or two before I got this behavior (not having enough power, shaking ...), and the behavior is still present after replacing the sensor.
I will appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Krle
#5
What spark plugs are in there and how many miles are on them? Start with a fresh set of spark plugs and a new fuel filter.
Sometimes peformance issues dont throw codes, thats where the real fun begins.
#6
Thank you for your response.
I wouldn't necessary agree on this. My understanding is that all O2 sensors are part of the feedback loop to the computer that determines air/fuel mixture. I have even proof for this: Somehow I got the same code on my other car (Toyota Sienna), bank1 sensor2, which prevented it from passing emission test. I tested it again yesterday (after replacing the sensor - Bosch sensor, order together with the one for Volvo), and it passed with big margins for CO content.
Also, the the code that appears over and over in Volvo indicates that O2 sensor has low voltage, not that it is seeing bad combustion.
Regardless, I will check spark plugs and air filter.
I would appreciate any other suggestion.
Thanks,
Krle
Also, the the code that appears over and over in Volvo indicates that O2 sensor has low voltage, not that it is seeing bad combustion.
Regardless, I will check spark plugs and air filter.
I would appreciate any other suggestion.
Thanks,
Krle
#7
I measured voltage on sensor output (while it is connected to the computer harness; I added small wires to the connector). In the first minute after turning the car on, the voltage is 0.45V. After that it goes slowly up, tsays for half a minute around 0.6 and then goes to 0.98V and moves just a bit around that number. This is, if I understand it correctly, indicator of too rich mixture for the engine. Exhaust starts having dark color and bad smell when the voltage goes up. After couple of minutes code P1133 comes up sometimes. If I understood it correctly, this code pops up when computer doesn't see enough changes in the sensor voltage around 0.45 V.
Could this be indication that the front sensor (prior to catalytic converter) is bad, but system is incapable of detecting it?
It is although strange that code indicating low voltage on the sensor after cat. converter pops up if the car is driven before sensor heats up.
Thanks for any suggestion,
Krle
Could this be indication that the front sensor (prior to catalytic converter) is bad, but system is incapable of detecting it?
It is although strange that code indicating low voltage on the sensor after cat. converter pops up if the car is driven before sensor heats up.
Thanks for any suggestion,
Krle
#8
My mechanic scanned the system and found that sensor 1 in the same bank has also steady high voltage. He suspect catalytic converter.
Also, 3 spark plugs were fully carbonated (black on the top).
Should I replace catalytic converter first, or the front sensor? One of them most likely caused the other to malfunction.
Any help will be appreciated,
Krle
Also, 3 spark plugs were fully carbonated (black on the top).
Should I replace catalytic converter first, or the front sensor? One of them most likely caused the other to malfunction.
Any help will be appreciated,
Krle
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