Hi,
Volvo V40 2003 here.

Bought it used in March.

It started blowing out blue/black exaust a month later. Had a part replaced that was full of sludge.

Now this light is on. Cam solenoid sensor has been changed. Timing belt is perfect. We also keep blowing out the lines connected to the solenoid sensor to get any buildup.

Other symptoms that I think are related (due to other posts):
*sometimes have to hold key to get it started
*sometimes doesn't accelerate like I think it should (but that could be in my head)
*bumpy idling
*fan comes on a lot during idling (more than my previous V40)
*engine seems a little loud (also more than my previous V40)

I thought it was just buildup all related to the initial issue of sludge, but these other issues lead me to think otherwise. I see posts about fuel pressure and VVT. Could someone explain, in someone basic terms.

Any suggestions before I bring to a mechanic. I like to be educated going in. Thanks.

 

Probably a bad CVVT hub. Fuel pressure won't set that code.

 

Like est6 said it's probably a bad hub. I actually did one today, they're not to hard to do.

 

thanks for the advice. Just to add…. the code didn't come on until a couple months after the whole smoke incident. We keep cleaning the lines and cleaning the code. It takes a couple weeks, at least, for that code to come on again.
I'd just like to fix the difficulty starting up and the bumping idling...

 

how much does a new hub cost? do you have to remove the timing belt for that to be replaced? Just wondering, because you said it's not hard to do.

 

could you show me a link to a pic of this CVVT hub…I keep looking it up and find different parts. Thanks again

 

The timing belt comes off to replace it. Its the whole camshaft pulley for the exhaust cam. Not hard to do with the correct special tools to lock the cams. Runs about $850 installed if I remember correctly.

 

So to follow up....
I finally brought the car to Volvo... they confirmed that the next step for the CEL would be the hub. Total cost would be $900 because of the long labor. Might wait a bit on that.

In the meantime, they found that my fuel pressure regulator needed to be replaced. I did replace that and my car works 10X better.
It now starts up right away and is calm when idling. I think it's a bit quieter too. So that solved part of the problem!

 

Wow that's great! As long as the pully is not leaking all over the belt you could probably leave it for a while if you need to. Just be sure to periodically check for a leak as you don't want your belt to slip.

 

a leak from? yikes...I hope they would have told me that at the shop;

 

Sorry to be clear: sometimes the vvt gear will leak onto the belt in which case you must address pronto. Other times the vvt simply becomes defective without leaking which will give you a p0015 cel. Sometimes both. I too would assume that mechanic would have advised if leakage was occurring. Good to monitor periodically anyway though just to be safe. All you need to do is pop the spark plug cover off + upper timing belt cover and you will see belt. Just make sure it is dry.

 

thanks for the info! I'll check it out.

 

Don't want to revive this thread but, was wondering if did you find anything leak or nope? Cos, i do see some oil spraying out from the timing belt area... when turned it off, its seeping oil from that area.

So, my guess would be new VVT crankset seal gone bad?

Thanks

 

it's okay...my car's still lighting up!

So...they did confirm that nothing is leaking. So are you asking me if the crankset seal went bad? I have no idea, but I assume not if there's no leakage. ??
It's been half a year watching the light. I'm just waiting to save and spend the money to fix the VVT hub. $900 job and they said otherwise the car is running fine and it's not damaging the car.

 

Very likely it's either the seal and/or the VVT gear. Given that the VVT gear has to come off to replace the seal, you might as well do both to avoid having to do the job twice. If your timing belt, water pump, and tensioner need replacing now would be the time to do it as they all have to come off as well. If there is leakage don't let it sit un-addressed too long as things could get more expensive if the belt fails.

Buuut - if your seal is leaking make sure that your crankcase ventilation is in working order. The seal can sometimes get pushed out because the PCV gets clogged. You definitely don't want to be doing all the timing belt/seal work only to find out that the seal is leaking again.

 

okay...thanks for all the advise. I know the water pump and timing belt have been checked. Next time I have to bring the car in, I'll ask them all that. They're very nice and they don't mind explaining everything to me. I like to be educated about what's going on.

 

Looks like i ll just buy a new plunger o ring and hopefully no leaks from there. I sure hope that would cure the oil leakage

 

To be clear though to install the new o ring you will need to take the timing belt off.

 

Yeah, should be much easier than removing the vvt gear, cam gear and using special lock tool?

I was hoping that routine would be easier and quick fix because before i bought this v40, the timing belt was done last year... so, i will just try to be careful and replace the o ring and hopefully no leaks from there.

 

I've never taken the vvt apart (but have taken it off) but do make sure that you have the right sockets to get at those weird bolts. If it were me, I would not take the belt off without locking the cams using the tool at the rear...others may chime in advising differently.