This is a 2007 V50, under 100,000 miles (in the 90's) car runs fine, MPG is good, a lot of power, idles well. This is my wife's commute car.

For a while we have been getting a PO2187 code but I can't find a vac leak. So because the car seems fine I've been clearing the code and going on with my life. Recently after the code was thrown I also looked at pending codes and I had a 300 301 and 302. Ok that is odd because I never feel any misfire.

This past weekend I'm under the hood and see the coolant is down a bit. I filled to the correct level.

Today when my wife gets home from her 30 mile stop and go commute I go to check the coolant. I am surprised to see coolant laying about - it was on top of my new upper motor mount, looked like some was on top of the reservoir and there was some down below the air inlet hose that is (I think) for the turbo. I'm not up to speed on the Volvo so forgive me if I am wrong about that big fat hose.

When the motor is running or not running there is no pressure in the expansion tank. I would guess that there is never much pressure because the cap is a 21 PSI cap which doesn't seem like much pressure.

Temp gauge needle sits straight up, never passes mid point.

With codes 300/301/302 misfires and leaking coolant a quick guess would be a small leak in the head gasket. No water in oil, car runs fine makes me think no on that one but maybe?????

We have the V50 and an S60 both turbos and they are my first turbos so I am not sure what is what on the engine. I could have a water leak in the turbo system.

Any ideas?

 

I'm having trouble finding PO2187 as codes are 5 digits. P2187 is system running lean and can account for misfire. System lean is not enough gas in the air fuel mixture so either your fuel pressure is low, unaccounted air is getting in or your egr is stuck.

I'd start by checking spark plugs in cylinder 1 and 2 (P0301 and P0302) for their gap and if they are worn any particular way. You can find picks online to see what bad plugs look like and what causes them to look that way. Next I would check for cracks in the air intake from the air box to the engine and vacuum hoses relating to the egr. Very small cracks can lead to big problems.

Disclaimer! Be careful doing this so you don't get burned or dismembered. Coolant hoses can be 200℉ and more. Moving parts don't care if your hand is there. Read everything below before starting.

Coolant leaking, you've filled it and found it on the engine so it's leaking somewhere. The systems, as you described, could be related but seem separate to me. I would start by looking under the car to see of you have any puddles on the ground with the engine cold. If not make sure the expansion tank cap is tight. Find the upper radiator hose (comes from the top of the radiator to the engine) and the lower radiator hose (goes from the engine to the bottom of the radiator.) Find places you can touch them (or use a temp gun if you have one) where you aren't gonna get hurt by moving part of the engine (very important if you don't want to lose a finger.) Give them a squeeze to feel the pressure in them and that they feel like rubber (not brittle.) Also find the heater core hoses at the back of the engine that go through the firewall into the cabin. Start the engine and turn the heat all the way on with the fan on high and wait. As the engine warms up the upper hose should warm up and build pressure. Occasionally squeeze the upper hose checking for temp and firmness using you cold engine firmness as a base. Check for leaks in the engine (all hoses and radiator) and for drips under the car. Note your lower hose should be cold and not have pressure. Keep checking for leaks, temp and pursue as the engine warms up. Look at the temp gauge inter car from time to time and make sure the needle gets to half way (if it goes above 3/4 shut the engine off asap) When the upper hose is hot and firm the heater should be blowing full heat inside. After it reaches 180-200℉ or 21psi the thermostat should open and begin hearing and pressurizing the lower hose. Be mindful of the cooling fans (fans on the radiator), they can turn on at any point. By the time the fans come on the system should be fully hot (overly hot and needing help to cool) and fully pressurised, any leaks should be leaking at this point.

That the coolant was visible on the engine I would be especially careful of coolant spraying up and at you. I always wear safety glass at work and definitely when work with coolant. If you still haven't noticed a leak or your not sure what you are doing I would take it to a shop and have them check. My shop charges $20 for a coolant leak test.

Best of luck and be safe.

 

Sorry for adding the P0 onto that code.

The cap wiggles a bit when I push on side to side. It is suspect. The one on the S60 had male threads on the cap, it screws into the expansion tank and I can make it very snug.

The V50 cap is a female end and screws down onto the expansion tank neck. It has a stop point, almost like it is built into the cap. It just stops. You can't feel that there is any torque being applied as it screws onto the expansion tank. It is the oddest thing I've ever seen but then maybe that is how it is to be?

I'm going to pull the bottom engine cover off this morning and have a look around.

 

Any luck with this?

 

I removed the lower engine cover and drove the car. No loss in fluid, no drips under car, etc.

I drove it yesterday and the outside temps were in the mid 90's and no coolant loss was to be seen.

The day the car lost fluid I did remove the expansion tank cap and pushed a little bit on the parts inside the cap.

SO maybe -

A. The cap has an intermittent problem
B. I didn't have the cap fitted correctly the day it blew coolant

The codes are still popping up. I am attributing them to a PCV issue that will be diagnosed on Tuesday. If it is a PCV issue there is an extended warranty 205 that will cover it.

We will see what happens.