I used to run into the same thing with my Jaguar and Cadillac. With the Jag some people would only feel good if they bought a part in the green box. My wholesaler guy often laughed because he knew that Jaguar wasn't making the parts and the same exact OEM part could be bought for half price (or less). The same with the Caddie --- You can go to the dealer and get the box or buy the same Delphi part from an outside outlet. It has been a while and I think it was delphi.

The same is true for Volvo fluid -- it is just re-badged.

" It's a fact that mobil manufactures the volvo OEM fluid listed above. So I called and talked to Jay Ford, in technical assistance, who confirmed to me that the volvo fluid is the SAME as both mobil 3309, and also toyota T-IV. The same stuff under different labels. His reference book indicated that these are interchangable."

I buy the mobil 3309 buy the case.

 

I can get the fluid changed by a local transmission shop for $40 using my my 3309 I had purchased earlier. They do not do a complete drain, just the usual drain and fill.

 

That is a good deal. I always manage to make a mess when I do the trans siphon and re-fill. It is worth $40 to not make a mess.

 

Not trying to hi jack this thread/post but I have had tranny issues and am scared to death! All is good now i hope :/ its been 20,000 miles and smooth as butter. Gunna do a flush or drain and fill soon to maintain it. My question is by putting more HP like chipping the ECU and I wanna upgrade the turbo but would it be to much HP and asking for problems or can These asian warner trannies take it.?

PS. We got the shaft with the 2.5 motor over the T5, they have over 50 more HP. I dont get it, same car two different logos and 50 less HP?? wtf!? Still love the car inside and out just sayin..

2006 S60 2.5T fwd polestar IPD catback/downpipe daul exhaust!!

LOVING MY VOLVO!!!

 

I ended up doing the pump out and fill myself using the whole 12 litres of Mobil 3309.
I purchase a pair of long reach 90 deg. bent nose pliers on to which I glued a pair of small pads which made it possible to depress the 2 blue tabs below the surface. The hose detached easily from the cooler with not too much of a pull.
The oil was black, I could not tell if it smelled burnt, I'm suffering from a bad sinus infection, I'll give the old oil a sniff when I get my sense of smell back.
The car did not have any signs of shifting problems with the old oil and I'm guessing it was never changed in the 169k km life of the vehicle.
The replaced oil is not quite bright red but I'm satisfied it is clean enough.

 

Actually the transmission oil removed was not black as first observed, it looked very dark in the plastic jug but when removing a dipped finger from the oil it was just a light brown with no smell.

 

a good way to check the color is to pull the dipstick and wipe with a white paper towel. If the color is red or brownish red, you are in good shape. If its dark brown with no hint of red, time for a flush or drain/refill. If its black (and smells burnt) you likely have some damage and should consider dropping the plan to inspect for debris, then clean the pan and refill. Drive a bit to see if there's any issues before a second drain and fill.

 

There was no way I could reach the V50 dipstick cold, let alone hot. I just removed the cooler return pipe and replaced 12 litres of old with new 3309 with the engine cold.
I would guess when the oil is brown, the smell test is more important than the shade of brown when the oil has reached that stage?

 

I might have missed it some where here onthe forum, but i found this video on changing the AFT in the Volvos.
Thought it might shed some light for the DIY folks.

Thanks

again, I probably missed it some where or another.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...=0&FORM=VDMCNL

 

Just did the drain and fill fluid change on my 2007 V50 T5.

It was really easy.
Drained exactly 4 quarts. Refilled it using the dipstick tube.
I bought the FCP Euro Volvo Transmission Service Kit - Aisin 1161540KT2 ($36)
Here is what I found:

1. You only need to remove the cover of the ECU to gain access to the dipstick tube (for inserting the filler tube/hose).
2. It is 100 times easier to remove the trans fluid dipstick from underneath the car and insert the filler hose
3. I used the dipstick to figure out the size of the filler hose that gets inserted into the dipstick tube. Needed two different sizes. In one of the photos you can see how I inserted one into the other and sealed it with tape

PS: Please excuse the typos on the photos.