what type of bulb for 2007 V50 low beam and foglight.

I plan on purchasing some HID's for the low beam and foglight.
anyone have any good recommnedations and experiences.

manual says H1 but did a search and come up with H11.

My manual also comes with a Michelin tire warranty and car doesn't even have Michelins.

Please help

 

I suggest you buy your HID's from SharpHID.com

John is a great seller and will answer all your questions and his warranty is well worth the little bit of extra money.

$280 for a great set of HID's.

You have H11-55W bulbs in there for the Low Beams.

This is the kit you want for HID's...

[align=left] Apexcone 35 watt[/align] [align=center]$200
Picture[/align]and or this kit...

[align=left] Apexcone 50 watt[/align] [align=center]Plug & Play Kit. Lifetime Warranty.
Available in 3000K - 30,000K.
Any common bulb type available.[/align] [align=center]$245
Picture[/align]

I have the first one. The Apexcone 35w kit. I am running 5000K bulbs.

 

Hi there,

I installed a Phillips HID kit from Vitessetuning.com. I liked this kit because it came with a fused power source to the ballasts rather that having them powerd to the factory wiring. There is high inrush current when you ignite the HID's and I didn't want to take a chance with this high current frying the CEM. The factory wires power a relay (instead of the 55W H11 low beam bulbs) which switches the power to the ballasts (HID's).

The CEM check current levels on the factory wires to see if there is a burn't bulb (no current). If current levels are too low, you get a low beam failure (LBF) warning on the display in the car (this can be a real pain, may get a buzzing sound, low beams may shut down all together along with the buzz). There is no real way to bypass the LBF failure but there is a way to fake it out. Basically what you do is put a load back onto the factory wires so that current levels are high enough so that the CEM reads it and thinks that the low beams are running, no LBF.

Since the kit that I bought from Vitessetuning dropped the load from the factory wiring, I also bought a resistor kit that they sell for this exact reason. They didn't have the resistor kit when I bought the HID's originally. When I installed the HID kit and got the LBF issues, I remembered an add I saw in a tuning mag that talked about LBF and resistor packs. Turns out it was from Vitessetuning. I contacted them, explained the issue and bought the kit from them. Once I installed the kit, all LBF problems went away.

Regardless of the kit you buy, check to see if the ballasts are powered through the factory wires or not. I recommend not powering through the factory wires.

I hope this helps,

Cheers..........

 

Hey guys!

I have a question! I want to install a xenon kit into my volvo V50. Now, i would really want a biXenon kit. Can it be found for the Volvo V50? Also, can the fog lights go Xenon?

thank you!

 

Don't know to be honest, but why not just do an HID upgrade? It is so easy to do and will be cheaper then a Bi Xenon setup for sure. SharpHID is the place to buy.

Also you can do an HID setup in your foglights as well. I would recommend that you stay between 4500k-6000k for the headlights LOW beams and I suggest you stay between 3000k-4500k for the foglights.

 

I was thinking to do 6000k for the lowbeams and same for the fog lights. But, why not do the fog lights more then 4500k?

 

1. 4500k-5000k is actually where you get the most light output from, from HID setups.

2. It is a common misconception that the higher you go the more light output you get. WRONG. The higher you go the less light output you get. The only thing you do get is a color change.

3. Read above for why you don't want to go over 4500k for foglights.