Brake Booster replacement
#21
I'm sure a few will discredit this post but something to consider.
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...T&f=34&t=24340
I'm going to pull mine this weekend. I've been around a few brake booster failures in my days (with other make/models) and I've never had one hiss in side the car like this w/o a loss of power. I think there is something "true" about this seal here and think it may reseal/seat. Not sure if the boot is all to blame or that seal ring is the concern in my case.
If it fails we'll order. I've seen them down to $120 now with STC.
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...T&f=34&t=24340
I'm going to pull mine this weekend. I've been around a few brake booster failures in my days (with other make/models) and I've never had one hiss in side the car like this w/o a loss of power. I think there is something "true" about this seal here and think it may reseal/seat. Not sure if the boot is all to blame or that seal ring is the concern in my case.
If it fails we'll order. I've seen them down to $120 now with STC.
#22
Tech,
I wanted to thank you for putting this how to on replacing the brake booster on the V70 here on this forum. It helped me out a lot and saved me a ton of money. I was able to find a new ATE brake booster for my car for $180 online and then using the how to in this thread saved me another $250 the local Volvo shop was going to charge me to install it ( that was with my discount they offer me). Every penny really counts since the wife has to goto Chemo every two weeks.
Thank you again, it was a real life saver.
I wanted to thank you for putting this how to on replacing the brake booster on the V70 here on this forum. It helped me out a lot and saved me a ton of money. I was able to find a new ATE brake booster for my car for $180 online and then using the how to in this thread saved me another $250 the local Volvo shop was going to charge me to install it ( that was with my discount they offer me). Every penny really counts since the wife has to goto Chemo every two weeks.
Thank you again, it was a real life saver.
#23
Does this work for the T5?
Today I followed the instructions and loosened every bolt. It took me two hours, most of them wedged between the steering wheel and the front seat.
But I couldn't get the brake booster to pass the pipe between the airfilter and the turbo. There just isn't enough room with the master cilinder and the connecting air intake pipe in place...
Today I followed the instructions and loosened every bolt. It took me two hours, most of them wedged between the steering wheel and the front seat.
But I couldn't get the brake booster to pass the pipe between the airfilter and the turbo. There just isn't enough room with the master cilinder and the connecting air intake pipe in place...
#25
#26
Break lights always on
Thanks for this great instruction, it worked out perfectly.
After connection the battery again, I notised that the break lights is always on, even when the car is turned off. I'm not wondering why, because I just changed something with the breaks. It might be the break sensor that is not connected properly, but I have no idea where to look. Could someone please guide me where the sensor is, or other ideas what could be wrong?
The breaks work just fine, and no sounds is anoying me anymore :-)
BR, Kelvin - Denmark
After connection the battery again, I notised that the break lights is always on, even when the car is turned off. I'm not wondering why, because I just changed something with the breaks. It might be the break sensor that is not connected properly, but I have no idea where to look. Could someone please guide me where the sensor is, or other ideas what could be wrong?
The breaks work just fine, and no sounds is anoying me anymore :-)
BR, Kelvin - Denmark
#27
Braking is not as strong
Hey I had the brake booster replaced yesterday by my trusted mechanic but he thinks we got a defected booster from ATE because there is noticeably more force needed when pressing the brakes in order to stop the car almost as if it doesn't have any assistance. I bought the new booster from fcp euro with stc which is my model. Did he miss a step or something. Should I return it? Help is greatly appreciated asap thank you
#28
Yes, thank you to tech for this outstanding description – already more than 10 years ago! (I am surprised that boosters needed replacement back then...).
I came here after not finding what I was looking for in the main Swedish forum, so congratulations tech on beating Sweden at it's own game! It is so nice to not have to remove any lines and having to bleed the system.
I have one problem though and if someone could point me in the right direction I would be very, very grateful. Even though most people seem to struggle a bit with the four bolts inside the car which are holding the booster they still seem to do okay. I on the other hand have just spent 6 frustrating hours unbolting 2.5 bolts...
The only way I could reach the bolts was on my back with the lower part of the body out of the car and even then only with one arm. To handle a wrench with an u-joint and extender with one cramped arm, with a kind of backhand grip, trying to get a few “clicks” in before the wrench hit something and often slipped off the somewhat downward pointing bolts obviously didn't work well at all.
So you who have managed, how did you do it? Does everyone have a lift and somehow lean in, standing on the outside, or what is the trick? I really can't spend maybe 12 more really uncomfortable and cold hours to get the rest of the bolts off and then on again...
Greetings from Volvo country from an ex-SAAB factory worker.
I came here after not finding what I was looking for in the main Swedish forum, so congratulations tech on beating Sweden at it's own game! It is so nice to not have to remove any lines and having to bleed the system.
I have one problem though and if someone could point me in the right direction I would be very, very grateful. Even though most people seem to struggle a bit with the four bolts inside the car which are holding the booster they still seem to do okay. I on the other hand have just spent 6 frustrating hours unbolting 2.5 bolts...
The only way I could reach the bolts was on my back with the lower part of the body out of the car and even then only with one arm. To handle a wrench with an u-joint and extender with one cramped arm, with a kind of backhand grip, trying to get a few “clicks” in before the wrench hit something and often slipped off the somewhat downward pointing bolts obviously didn't work well at all.
So you who have managed, how did you do it? Does everyone have a lift and somehow lean in, standing on the outside, or what is the trick? I really can't spend maybe 12 more really uncomfortable and cold hours to get the rest of the bolts off and then on again...
Greetings from Volvo country from an ex-SAAB factory worker.
Last edited by TreatGirlsGently; 10-22-2016 at 04:22 PM.
#29
The "click" you are hearing is the shift lock releasing when you press the brake. You can't shift out of Park without first pressing the brake with your foot.
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