Camshaft Position Sensor problem!..
#1
Camshaft Position Sensor problem!..
Hello there..
My check engine light is on. Pulled up the codes, and it was showing this: P0014 - "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over - Advanced or System Performance Bank 1
Took it to my mechanic. He wanted me to order new camshaft position sensor. I went to Autozone and got a new position sensor for 200 something dollars. And he replaced it.
Long story short, light went off for couple days and then came back on.
I clear it out, but it comes back on. We have no idea what the problem is..
Just had an oil change (premium quality)
Any thoughts?
2001 Volvo v70 t5 2.3L Turbo
My check engine light is on. Pulled up the codes, and it was showing this: P0014 - "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over - Advanced or System Performance Bank 1
Took it to my mechanic. He wanted me to order new camshaft position sensor. I went to Autozone and got a new position sensor for 200 something dollars. And he replaced it.
Long story short, light went off for couple days and then came back on.
I clear it out, but it comes back on. We have no idea what the problem is..
Just had an oil change (premium quality)
Any thoughts?
2001 Volvo v70 t5 2.3L Turbo
#2
What kind of scanner threw the code? Volvo specific scanner?
When the CP Sensor is failing, it can cause no start condition FWIW.
What came first? Check engine light or oil change? The reason I ask is that reckless mechanics will disturb/ crack the myriad of vaccuum hoses (ESPECIALLY near the cam position sensor.)
By the way, what brand part did autozone stock for the cp sensor if you don't mind?
When the CP Sensor is failing, it can cause no start condition FWIW.
What came first? Check engine light or oil change? The reason I ask is that reckless mechanics will disturb/ crack the myriad of vaccuum hoses (ESPECIALLY near the cam position sensor.)
By the way, what brand part did autozone stock for the cp sensor if you don't mind?
#4
What kind of scanner threw the code? Volvo specific scanner?
When the CP Sensor is failing, it can cause no start condition FWIW.
What came first? Check engine light or oil change? The reason I ask is that reckless mechanics will disturb/ crack the myriad of vaccuum hoses (ESPECIALLY near the cam position sensor.)
By the way, what brand part did autozone stock for the cp sensor if you don't mind?
When the CP Sensor is failing, it can cause no start condition FWIW.
What came first? Check engine light or oil change? The reason I ask is that reckless mechanics will disturb/ crack the myriad of vaccuum hoses (ESPECIALLY near the cam position sensor.)
By the way, what brand part did autozone stock for the cp sensor if you don't mind?
It is not a Volvo specific scanner, it's one of those cheap chinese bluetooth thing that connects with my smartphone.
Before I changed the oil, check engine light was on. Changed the oil, still there.
And the sensor that i got from Autozone is this: Duralast/Camshaft Position Sensor (SU5280) | 2001 Volvo V70 5 Cylinders 5 2.3L Turbo DOHC | AutoZone.com
It's a Duralast, not the OEM. So i'm thinking that might be problem right there.
#5
To be frank, I would rely on that scanner. That being said, if you and the mechanic are reasonably sure that the cps is causing the issue, the duralst brand might not be optimal.
Depending on where you live, you might want to a) go to a junkyard and pull a compatible part and swith it yourself, b) if $ permits, try an oem, or bosch sensor (if they make one for 99 and up, or c) take it to autozone, and have them pull the codes. See what it throws. The CEL's are ofentimes emissions related.
Didn't ask last time, but how is the car running?
Keep in touch
Depending on where you live, you might want to a) go to a junkyard and pull a compatible part and swith it yourself, b) if $ permits, try an oem, or bosch sensor (if they make one for 99 and up, or c) take it to autozone, and have them pull the codes. See what it throws. The CEL's are ofentimes emissions related.
Didn't ask last time, but how is the car running?
Keep in touch
#6
To be frank, I would rely on that scanner. That being said, if you and the mechanic are reasonably sure that the cps is causing the issue, the duralst brand might not be optimal.
Depending on where you live, you might want to a) go to a junkyard and pull a compatible part and swith it yourself, b) if $ permits, try an oem, or bosch sensor (if they make one for 99 and up, or c) take it to autozone, and have them pull the codes. See what it throws. The CEL's are ofentimes emissions related.
Didn't ask last time, but how is the car running?
Keep in touch
Depending on where you live, you might want to a) go to a junkyard and pull a compatible part and swith it yourself, b) if $ permits, try an oem, or bosch sensor (if they make one for 99 and up, or c) take it to autozone, and have them pull the codes. See what it throws. The CEL's are ofentimes emissions related.
Didn't ask last time, but how is the car running?
Keep in touch
Car is running decent except for idle. Sometimes i get rough idle, sometimes i don't. We thought about rear engine mount because like a month ago i took it to the shop (not volvo dealer) and they said its got rear engine mount broken. But my regular mechanic checked it out and said "i don't wanna take your money for that cuz mounts are ok".
Thats the situation so far going on. I appreciate your time and help. Thank you so much.
#7
[quote=ysunshine;299598]I think i'm gonna have to go find another OEM at junkyards or something as you said. And the thing is, when i got this part at Autozone, cashier said that if I put that sensor in the car, they won't take it back. That was so sad. And I paid like 200 hundred something just for that sensor.
Car is running decent except for idle. Sometimes i get rough idle, sometimes i don't. We thought about rear engine mount because like a month ago i took it to the shop (not volvo dealer) and they said its got rear engine mount broken. But my regular mechanic checked it out and said "i don't wanna take your money for that cuz mounts are ok".
Thats the situation so far going on. I appreciate your time and help. Thank you so much.[/quote
I figured as much from Autozone, or any parts place about returns. If they can tell you installed it, they won't accept it back unless it's faulty. Some of the parts are ok, some are absolute garbage. I've been through the "throwing money out the window" thing myself.
Our conversation is sort of bouncing around from issue to issue, appologies if I'm complicating matters by asking so many questions.
I'd take it in to Autozone and have them hook it up to their OBD-II scanner. It will give a "generic" i.e. not brand specific code. They're all generally the same though, so it will point you in the right direction.
I am thinking vaccuum leak/ faulty emissions.
For what it's worth, every time you disconnect the battery for more than a certain period of time, your ECM needs to re-learn the maps.
You may need to drive 100+ miles/ several drive cycles in order for the thing to fully compensate for any faults. I let my battery sit disconnected overnight once, and when I first restarted it and drove it, it was idling like it was going to hop out of the engine bay and die, but after a few miles, the ECM compensated (for what I later found out was a massive vaccuum leak) and the car ran fine.
I'm going to leave it at that, or let someone with more knowledge about your model year chime in. I'm a 98 and below guy
Get an OEM part and try to install it yourself. Hang in there, I know dealing with these mystery conditions can drive you nuts...Have a nice weekend.
Car is running decent except for idle. Sometimes i get rough idle, sometimes i don't. We thought about rear engine mount because like a month ago i took it to the shop (not volvo dealer) and they said its got rear engine mount broken. But my regular mechanic checked it out and said "i don't wanna take your money for that cuz mounts are ok".
Thats the situation so far going on. I appreciate your time and help. Thank you so much.[/quote
I figured as much from Autozone, or any parts place about returns. If they can tell you installed it, they won't accept it back unless it's faulty. Some of the parts are ok, some are absolute garbage. I've been through the "throwing money out the window" thing myself.
Our conversation is sort of bouncing around from issue to issue, appologies if I'm complicating matters by asking so many questions.
I'd take it in to Autozone and have them hook it up to their OBD-II scanner. It will give a "generic" i.e. not brand specific code. They're all generally the same though, so it will point you in the right direction.
I am thinking vaccuum leak/ faulty emissions.
For what it's worth, every time you disconnect the battery for more than a certain period of time, your ECM needs to re-learn the maps.
You may need to drive 100+ miles/ several drive cycles in order for the thing to fully compensate for any faults. I let my battery sit disconnected overnight once, and when I first restarted it and drove it, it was idling like it was going to hop out of the engine bay and die, but after a few miles, the ECM compensated (for what I later found out was a massive vaccuum leak) and the car ran fine.
I'm going to leave it at that, or let someone with more knowledge about your model year chime in. I'm a 98 and below guy
Get an OEM part and try to install it yourself. Hang in there, I know dealing with these mystery conditions can drive you nuts...Have a nice weekend.
#8
To be frank, I would rely on that scanner. That being said, if you and the mechanic are reasonably sure that the cps is causing the issue, the duralst brand might not be optimal.
Depending on where you live, you might want to a) go to a junkyard and pull a compatible part and swith it yourself, b) if $ permits, try an oem, or bosch sensor (if they make one for 99 and up, or c) take it to autozone, and have them pull the codes. See what it throws. The CEL's are ofentimes emissions related.
Didn't ask last time, but how is the car running?
Keep in touch
Depending on where you live, you might want to a) go to a junkyard and pull a compatible part and swith it yourself, b) if $ permits, try an oem, or bosch sensor (if they make one for 99 and up, or c) take it to autozone, and have them pull the codes. See what it throws. The CEL's are ofentimes emissions related.
Didn't ask last time, but how is the car running?
Keep in touch
#9
#10
I need to educate myself more on the post 1998 engines. As far as the ETM /drive by wire and the other changed made to the 98 v70, I don't know much. If the sensor is the same part, it is held into the block by two bolts.
Instead of breaking out an ohmeter and testing the part, I'd just replace it. When the part totally fails, it will cause a no start condition. That is bad.
Invest in a Haynes or Chilton manual. If you're the least bit mechanically inclined, and can follow written instructions, you can do it yourself.
The vacuum hoses were the biggest problem on my 98...
Good luck.
Instead of breaking out an ohmeter and testing the part, I'd just replace it. When the part totally fails, it will cause a no start condition. That is bad.
Invest in a Haynes or Chilton manual. If you're the least bit mechanically inclined, and can follow written instructions, you can do it yourself.
The vacuum hoses were the biggest problem on my 98...
Good luck.
#11
#12
#13
Camshaft Exhaust Position Sensor Issue
I have a '99 Volvo s70 non turbo and my Check Engine light is on. I stopped by the local auto parts store to read the code. It indicates that it is due to the Camshaft Exhaust Position Sensor. I'm totally confused because the car doesn't have any issues starting and runs fine.
I recently had to change the heater core and a before I changed it is when I started seeing this Check Engine light. Can someone please help me figure out what is really the issue?
I did have an issue with the battery going dead one day and it was a brand new battery. I drive the car for about 30 minutes and went into the office for about 2 hours. When I returned, no power at all in the car. Called roadside assistance to jump start it and as soon as he put the cables on, it cranked up. The tester said that the battery was fine and showed high voltage. I don't have any lights on or base fuses to kill or short out the battery. I can't seem to figure out what the issue is and won't drive the car anymore because of the code.
Totally confused because everything says if it's the sensor it won't even start. My car is starting. I need help and I am afraid if I drive it, it may leave me stranded somewhere.
I recently had to change the heater core and a before I changed it is when I started seeing this Check Engine light. Can someone please help me figure out what is really the issue?
I did have an issue with the battery going dead one day and it was a brand new battery. I drive the car for about 30 minutes and went into the office for about 2 hours. When I returned, no power at all in the car. Called roadside assistance to jump start it and as soon as he put the cables on, it cranked up. The tester said that the battery was fine and showed high voltage. I don't have any lights on or base fuses to kill or short out the battery. I can't seem to figure out what the issue is and won't drive the car anymore because of the code.
Totally confused because everything says if it's the sensor it won't even start. My car is starting. I need help and I am afraid if I drive it, it may leave me stranded somewhere.
#14
the code can be pointing to the VVT sensor on the exhaust cam. that's just saying you dont get the performance advantage but the car would start normal. In terms of the battery, you need to test for a current drain with the key off - ie test across all the fuses in the fuse box. There's a good write up on either the V70 or 850 board on the how to find a battery drain problem.
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