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Hard Start - hot or cold, summer or winter

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  #1  
Old 01-28-2010, 12:22 PM
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Default Hard Start - hot or cold, summer or winter

I've had a persistant problem for the last 4 years.
The car is randomly hard to start.

I would say that 4 times out of 7, it starts perfectly: The starter spins for 1/2 second and the engine catches and idles perfectly.

But, for the times it doesn't start perfectly, it cranks okay - but it will spin the motor for 3 to 5 seconds before it "catches" and runs.
Sometimes, it will catch, and stumble for 2 or 3 seconds before the idle smoothes out.
If I crank for 2 or 3 seconds, turn off the key, and then re-crank, it does a perfect start.

The starter motor spins as fast as it ever did - pretty fast.
I've replaced the battery (because the old one naturally expired) and it still has problems.
There are no warning lights illuminated on the dash - but I don't have a scan tool to check trouble codes.

It always starts (1st or 2nd try) and has never let me down. But I have to crank for a long time or try 2 times before it starts.

This happens when the car is warmed up (miles of driving) or dead cold (overnight in the garage).
It happens in the winter (cold for California) or the summer.

Every time I talk to a shop about this, they ALWAYS say it is probably the immobilizer antennae or a bad key.
- I have three keys and it doesn't matter which one I use.
- If it's the antennae, why does it crank but not start? And, why does it start if I crank long enough or try a 2nd time?

Should I just bite the bullet and have the immobilizer antennae replaced to see if that's the problem?
 
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Old 01-28-2010, 08:12 PM
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I am wondering if it is a fuel issue. I am wondering if you are losing fuel rest pressure.
 
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:37 PM
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"Fuel Rest Pressure" - how do I check this and how do I fix it?

If it is an easy fix, I'd just throw a part in there to test / fix.
 
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Old 02-05-2010, 09:10 PM
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You need to connect a fuel pressure gauge and turn the key to pressurize it. Then turn the key off and let it sit overnight. Then see if it goes to 0. It should not drop to 0.
 
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Old 02-06-2010, 08:44 PM
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Let's assume the fuel pressure is leaking down - what needs to be replaced?

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge - so I can't measure it.

And, if I did have a gauge, I wouldn't have to wait overnight - it is hard to start immediately after turning it off. I could wait 2 min and it could be hard to start - or it could start fine.
 
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:19 PM
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Might be the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump.
 
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Old 03-06-2010, 07:01 PM
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More information:
I drove around the block, turned the motor off. I waited about 15 min, and pressed the pin inside the "tire stem" valve at the end of the fuel rail. No gas came out at all. No pressure.
If I run the engine, turn it off an then check the valve right away, there is some gas that comes out.

So, something is leaking down.

How hard is it for me to change a "Fuel Pressure Regulator" or "fuel pump"?

Are these the only two things that could be allowing the fuel pressure to leak down in 5 minutes?

I changed out the fuel filter canister today (the one at the back of the car above the right rear axle). It refilled pretty quickly - if that means anything.
 
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Old 03-09-2010, 10:17 AM
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Default I have the same issue

I have a 2001 C70. 14 months ago, it would intermittently, not turn over at all, even though there was a good crank. The dealer replaced the antenna in the steering column that communcates with the key and the problem was solved - this was very expensive.

Now there is a good crank, and it seems to want to start for a few seconds, then it stalls. This is also intermittent. I just called the dealer and they said the antenna ring only had a one year warrant, but I'm not even sure that is the problem. Please let me know if and how you are able to resolve this. The car runs great once it is started.

Thank You,
 
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:52 AM
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I discussed my problem with a former Volvo mechanic and this is his response:

Sounds like the antenna ring again. Volvo's of that gen are always going through them. I just put one in my 01 C70 all of a 10 min job the dealers really rip you off. Part is about 40.00 labor 10 min. One thing to try when it does it is to lock the doors with the remote then unlock and start the car if that works then the ring is bad.
 
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:51 AM
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It's not the antenna ring. I think the symptoms of a bad antenna ring are no crank.
This cranks fine every time without fail. It just takes too long to catch and run.
 
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Old 03-12-2010, 05:05 PM
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Fuel Pressure Regulator is easy to replace. Last year I had similar ," hard start", problem on my 850, and it was FPR.
Not sure for that year model, it could be called Fuel Pressure Damper
 

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  #12  
Old 06-14-2016, 05:34 PM
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Dragging up from the dead, but I can't find a fuel pressure regulator, is it this? Fuel pressure pulse dampener?

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6939...e-pulse-damper
 
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Old 06-14-2016, 09:26 PM
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Not really, no. The dampener would not play a role in leak down at all.
 
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:23 PM
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I've encountered the same issue...the trick now is finding the correct part.
I get the idea that if it's a bad sensor, then it's not giving the right signal back to the computer to start the car; however, if it's actually a fuel pressure regulator, i agree, that i can't find one either.
 
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Old 08-08-2016, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JJ Neerman
I've encountered the same issue...the trick now is finding the correct part.
I get the idea that if it's a bad sensor, then it's not giving the right signal back to the computer to start the car; however, if it's actually a fuel pressure regulator, i agree, that i can't find one either.

I'm guessing it's this

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...-volvo-9186278
 
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:11 PM
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Dear friends
I have been searching the net for few months trying to find an answer for the cold starting problem ,, no luck,, most answers and suggestions . look like all GUESS work.
Anyway of course I had the same problem with my 2001 V70 2.4 Turbo with almost impossible to start in the cold weather, I did the logical diagnostic steps,, plugs, filters, etc, etc , no luck,, I followed what most people suggested and still no luck,
Here is what I discover and solved my problem almost instantly.
1- First of all I decided to crank the car at night with complete darkness while looking under the hood to see if there are any sparking or electrical issues.. the result was NONE.
2- I unplugged each injector plug and tested each one individually (with LED test light) and the result came out OK all are good.
3- I removed all the spark plugs and did something different this time,, I used very strong magnifier to look at the electrodes and BINGO ,, here is my problem3 out of the 5 plugs had GAS all over and hard to see (wet) OMG ,, how did I miss this?????????????????
I did farther testing,, I tested each ignition coil individually and found 3 out of 5 are putting very very weak spark, ,,
I got on line,, ordered 5 new ignition coils (EBAY)cheap ones just for the propos of testing the car.
Final answer is, I had 3 weak (not enough spark to ignite the gas)
The new set of coils got the car to run and start like new with no problem any more.
I hope I help someone who still pulling there hair with the problem of (HARD TO START WHEN COLD)
Good luck with you all
 
  #17  
Old 12-21-2016, 11:16 PM
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So I actually had my 2004 xc70 just not start on me one night, had to get it towed, naturally when the mechanic attempted to start it, it cooperated 100%.

They noticed that my fuel was low, just out of habit that's how I do it in every car I have ever owned, zero problems. They swear to me that you cannot let these cars get less than 1/3 of a tank, otherwise the fuel pump overheats. I've kinda been just letting it get down to a quarter since they told me this. I have not had a single rough start since.
 
  #18  
Old 12-23-2016, 02:56 PM
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I'd think that an overheating fuel pump would cause driveability problems or random stalls after you've been driving, not on a cold start. Fuel pump relays can behave the same way - ie cutting out randomly when they overheat (this can be a sign the pump is starting to fail). Long cranking on a cold start is a typical sign of a fuel pressure regulator issue (rail loses pressure over time leaving it to the pump to rebuild the pressure while cranking). sometimes the cold start probs are a combination of both...
 
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Old 02-27-2017, 07:57 PM
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Dear Volvo owners.
I had very hard time finding a logic answer for the hard tostart when cold problem
I been reading many many many posting regarding this problembut no one (( I MEAN NO ONE )) ever really came up with solid answer on how toresolve this headache.
I am not a mechanic but I analyze everything in logical wayand I think I might find a very good answer (hints) to resolve this nightmareand help others.
I bought 2001 V70xc with about 190Kmiles and it came withhard to start (specially when cold ) problem, I did the usual things , Tuneup,plugs etc, etc,
Next day same problem,, came on line and start to read,, youtube, every available resource and still no luck.
I even replaced the ignition coils and still no difference
Finally I start to go little deeper in the problem which isthe spark plugs ,, every time I rook them out they are fully covered withsoot,, not light coat but a lot.
I realize it is RICH running issue, too much gas, less airand did every possible vacuum leak test you can think of, everything is tight.now time to think more about the gas, the supply, the fuel pressure and relatedmatters. I started with the filter was unusually heavy (after I drain the gasfrom it) which indicate tons of dirt inside, then checked the fuel pressure atthe fuel rail during running engine it was 55 PSI , Next day start fresh earlymorning,, fuel pressure is ZERO when the car is cold,, turn the ignition on andthe fuel pressures remain ZERO. ,, I even changed the antenna ring, no luckstill.
back to the wiring diagram and replaced the fuel relay underthe dash board ,, now I got about 40 PSI when the ignition is on but still hardto start,,
My last resort was the readjust the fuel pressure and theidea came from watching something related on YouTube
I purchased ((ADJUSTABLE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR)) fromEBAY, under $20.00 and for extra assurance I purchased in-line CHECK VALVE for$6.00 from ebay
that was the answer for my problem,,
Damn I hit it right,, after 4 months of searching and tryingdifferent things ,, OMG what a release
Please review the attached pictures and see what I did,,that might help the next V70xc with a headache (NO START ) owner
 
  #20  
Old 02-06-2018, 03:12 PM
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I think you and the guy below with the adjustable fuel pressure regulator are on to something. 01 V70 T5 manual here. Very hard starting after sitting for 6 months. Replaced plugs. Maybe its bad gas? Fuel pump assy changed at 1yr ago. Already has Xemodex throttle body. Could be bad coils . Ive had a problem with the fuel filter coming loose but i believe it was from the fuel pump that was cracking and letting go. Idk. Its also lowered 1in. Smelled fuel from the fuel pump cracking issue for about 6 months before it showed any signs of leaking. That's another issue but I'm starting to worry if I possibly got the timing belt off by one tooth I just did that job before I park the car. I am unsure if a Volvo would start or not if you got the timing off by one tooth. I think it's an interference engine but I'm not sure at the moment. It's running now I'm sitting in it but damn it just took me 15 minutes to start it. Maybe bad gas I put some B12 chemtool in the tank I got a quarter tank.
 
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