As far as I know they are all pretty much the same. Continental belts are OEM belts.

 

OK cool. I'm just going to order the belt, tensioner, idler pulley, the S-belt and that tensioner as well. I'm just going to replace all of it in one shot.

Anything else I should order?

 

That should be it.

Some might say to do the water pump as well. I always inspect first then go from there.

 

I thought about that. At one point I found step-by-step instructions with pics on how to do it on the web. I can't find those now. Do we have anything like that on the forum or should I just go out and find a service manual? It looked like the little markers on the gears and the block were easy to find.

 

I found these instructions that seem pretty accurate.

http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how...placement2.pdf

 

That is a copy and paste of Volvo's instructions.
They will work fine.

 

For anybody that is thinking about doing this, FCP has a eBay sale going on for the kit. $116.99 with free shipping. I just bought it. Here are two more links to the others. It covers 01 to 04 V70 as well as other models:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volvo...mZ220292278092

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volvo...mZ250267910193

I'll post links to other deals for the water pump, s-belt and tensioner if I find anything good, just as a reference for anybody else that wants to tackle this job on their own.

 

I ordered the T-Belt, tensioner and pulley kit, also ordered the new S-belt tensioner. The s-belt I have is in great shape so I didn't see a need to change it. There's absolutely no cracking of any kind.

The only thing I need now is 30MM socket, torque wrench and I'll probably try to find the crank pully wrench that holds it in place.

I'm a little confused about one step though. The directions say remove the vibration damper with the special crank pulley took to keep it in place. The only thing I see on the schematics is the crank pulley which is bolted to the timing sprocket.

You don't have to remove the actual crank pulley do you? Is the vibration dampener the nut that goes on there? Is that tool used to move the crank or do you use the 30MM nut to do that? That's kinda where I don't get it.

 

You can change the belt without removing the pulley but it is a pain. I always remove it. But I have air tools and the nut comes right off.
That tool would bolt to the 4 10MM screws to hold the motor to break the 30MM nut loose to remove the pulley/dampner.

 

Do you also use that tool to move the crank to align the markers or do you use the socket point for that? It looks like you can see the mark on the sprocket without taking the pulley off.

I don't have an air compressor or a impact wrench. I just bought a torque wrench though which I've been looking for an excuse to buy for a while. I have one of those old school long ones with the dial and it's been beat up.

 

I use the 30MM to move the motor. After I remove the pulley I always put the nut back on and use the nut to turn the motor over.
You should be able to do it fine without removing the pulley. You will have to turn and work the belt out.

 

OK Thanks! I'm probably going to tackle this next weekend. This weekend I have too much going on. I don't know how you do it with 4 kids

 

LOL it is hard at times but I get through it.

 

If I can get away without removing the pulley, then I don't need that special took to keep the pulley from moving, correct?

Why is the belt so hard to get off without removing the pulley? Doesn't it just slide in and out of the space?

 

Correct you won't need to tool unless you want the pulley off.
There is a pin located under the crank pulley. Once you get the cover off that has the 2 10mm screws holding it on you will see what I mean.

 

Well, I got all of my parts for the job. Now I just have to figure out when I'm going to do it.

How many miles of life would you say is left in a belt that is in the same condition you pictured where it's safe to drive it, or should that belt be replaced ASAP?

 

I would try to do it soon. Remember the pulleys are the main concern. The belt is as well but the pulleys break more than the belts to.
If you start it cold and hear any funny squeeling noises then don't drive it.

 

Never hear squeeling. Actually, I just checked the weather this weekend and Sunday it's supposed to be 67 and cloudy, probably the last decent day around here to do it. After this week temps are going to start falling, so I'm planning on Sunday being the day. It should be the perfect day to work on a car.

I'm making sure I plan for the entire day for this. I know it shouldn't take long, but I'm **** about making sure everything is done right.

The 30 MM socket should be the only took out of the ordinary I need? I don't know the Torx bit size for the new s-belt pulley. I forgot to check before I left today.

 

Make sure you have a 6MM wrench I believe it is.(Sorry have a special one I use).
The new tensioner should be either a T-50 or T-55 I forget which it is. But I never use it. I remove the plastic cover on the pulley and use the 14mm to move it.

 

In the instructions, it says "turn the eccentric".

What is the eccentric? The picture shows a bolt going through the tensioner, so I assume that's the bolt that holds it on, but is the entire center part of it the eccentric? Does that whole middle piece turn and then you tighten it down with the bolt?