I thought that I would share some information with everyone who is looking for a solution to the rough shift on the 2001+ V70 series with the AW 55-50 gearbox.

The problem that I have previously solved is a transmission that shifts normally when first driven, and then shifts harshly when warmed up. These are hard shifts both up and down, but most of the time you notice hard downshifts when coming to a stop.

The cause is metallic debris and other junk that accumulates in the shift solenoids. There are three. Because these solenoids are electro-magnetic, they attract metal particles inside them and there is no where for it to go once they get junked up. As the unit heats up, the solenoids stick and cause the rough shifting.

There is a company in North Carolina who is making new shift solenoids. Changing these is about a 3-hour job and not particularily hard. Basic hand tools will do the job.

Anyone who wants more information can PM me and I'll get back to you.

 

I don't believe is that simple. A magnefine tranny filter would be the only thing needed if that was the case.

I feel that if the problem was corrected early enough in these trannies: by removing the STOP NEUTRAL feature, refreshing the fluid and adding a magnefine filter, that should do the trick.

BUT, the problem with these trannies is that the STOP NEUTRAL feature was not removed early enough, the fluid was never changed and by the time the tranny starts acting up, internal damage has already been done.

 

Your opinion, but not my experience with dozens of Volvos, both in the inventory and in the repair shop.

 

Tony,

I am glad things are working out for you

So, which solenoids did you replace? how many miles on the tranny? do you have a link to the shop in NC that sells these solenoids?

 

I replace the linear solenoids. Mileage on the vehicles ranged from 70k to 185k. In all cases, we did a complete fluid change and replaced the linear solenoids. After a shift relearn of the transmission computer, they shift just fine.

Also, the neutral feature that you mention DID NOT harm the transmission. In fact, it helps it run cooler, but had driver perception issues. So, the software update removed the feature.

 

Hello,
Thanks to tony for the great, informative post.
To tony: Keep them coming.
To jda2000: I've been reading the various Volvo boards too and have noted that people frequently post about the stop neutral feature, TCM updates, fluid changes and the B4 servo cover. Occasionally the valve body comes up. This "solenoid post" is backed up by dozens of hands on applications and has tremendous statistical verification thereby. You say you've never read about "...a happy 2001/2002 P2 owner...even after a valve body rebuild". I can't think of a single post where someone reported that they've had a valve body rebuild, or replacement, done. I, for one, welcome this new option which I can do myself before resorting to the more taxing valve body R&R or , Heaven forbid, a full rebuild at $3,500 to $5,000.
To ed7: Are you a minister?
Kira

 

Well, Ok, I just bought a 2000 V70AWD for cheap. Runs fine EXCEPT shifts HARD and after 10-15 mins loses drive. Model year 2000 seems to be lost in all trans related discussions here. Local trans shops won't touch it, save two, (both give me bad vibes), and independent Volvo shop in Ann Arbor who will only swap trans for Volvo factory reman unit at $3500 plus, same as snotty dealer. I own two 242s, ('83 Turbo, 240k miles, '84 DL). So far this car has been a pain and I haven't even towed it home yet! No available repair manuals, no trans filter available, etc, etc no wonder it was so cheap!

 

Tony, thanks for the great post on this subject. I am a newby to both this post and Volvos. I recently purchased a 2002 V70XC and discovered a problem shortly after driving home. Purhaps you can help as I don't know if it is a trans issue or part of the ETM stuff, perhaps neither.

My car has what I describe as "surging" while crusing at speeds in the 30 -45 mph range. The surge ranges from 100 to ~400 rpm and happens everytime I am in this range and trying to hold speed. If I shift from auto to manual it stops, then when I shift back to auto it starts again. When I shift into manual the indicator tells me the trans is in 4th gear. Would this be a normal range for 30 mph? Seems like it should be in 3rd.

As for the ETM, I've cleaned it and inspected the trottle position sensor, which looks to be in very good condition with no apparent or significant wear on contact surfaces. I also cleaned the MAF with the correct cleaner. the result was no change or improvent. The car is not at all sluggish and drives very nicely, other than the surging in this speed range. It's, of course, very annoying because this is the range you will usually drive around town. I can't believe I missed this while test driving the car as I put ~30 miles on this this test driving it and it seemed fine, the next day this is the first thing I notice.

Any suggestions?

 

rjc409,

The surging that you describe can very well be a vacuum leak, most commonly found along the vacuum lines to/from the crankcase breather.

The other likely souce is a plugged crankcase breather which I have changed 100+ of those. They get fouled up with carbon deposits and the crankcase pressure goes back up into the intake and confuses the computer system. I didn't see a mileage listed but if it is a 2002 model, change the crankcase breather and replace the vacuum lines. It is a job that you can do yourself but plan the better part of a day.

 

Tony,
I'll definitely look into the plugged vacuum lines.
Question:
wouldn't the plugged vacuum lines also cause a rough idle? Is it possible to have a very smooth idle and good low end performance and only have the surging at one rpm range? the surging occurs exclusively from 1400-1600rpm.
Also the surging stops when I shift from auto to manual mode. If it were engine control related I would think that it would behave the same whether in auto or manual mode, but I can make it start and stop by shifting it between modes.

 

Tony,
Please, put your ego aside. I am not attacking your advice nor am I an idiot who knows nothing about vehicles. A solution has to make sense to me. and my question was with the thinking that maybe there are some things about the Volvo and it's control systems that I am not aware of. Also, I am driving the car and you are not, therefore I will be more aware of the details going on with it on a daily driveing basis. I never gave you this bit of new information before and would would think as a professional that you would want all the information possible at your disposal to make the best diagnosis you can and not just be guessing.

Please reconsider my question and help me understand:

Wouldn't the plugged vacuum lines also cause a rough idle? Is it possible to have a very smooth idle and good low end performance and only have the surging at one rpm range? the surging occurs exclusively from 1400-1600rpm.
Also the surging stops when I shift from auto to manual mode. If it were engine control related I would think that it would behave the same whether in auto or manual mode, but I can make it start and stop by shifting it between modes.

 

@rjc409
and @tony1963

I think I might have a similar problem, however while it used to be fine in manual mode, it's now completely dead.
The flaring seems to be caused by the gears not engaging properly. I pop it in reverse and to get it to move have to hit abt 4000rpm when it slowwwly eases back. Same thing seems to happen in D on occasions.

Some folk have advised a complete transmission replacement or rebuild, others have said just do the valve body. Either way it sounds expensive

 

I've been discussing this issue with others on another forum and they describe the issue as the transmission fluctuates in and out of lockup in whatever gear it is in, in my case 4th or 5th gear.
I took it to a volvo dealer this week and they confirmed this and said the tranny was in the early stages of failure and there was nothing they could do except replace it.
They said that the problem was with one of the silenoids in the valve body and that they couldn't guaranty that replacing the valve body would fix the problem.
I may consider tony's advice and rebuilding the valve body.

Tony, if you are still there, I would be interested in you valve body rebuild information. Where can I get the Silenoids & information on rebuilding. Are there instructions to be found anywhere.

 

Yes, a lot of places have been suggesting it's the valve body that goes in these cars, but they still quote upwards of $4000 to repair/replace it.
Maybe that's just an Oz thing, but I'd love to find a cheaper solution

 

Crankcase breather or its vacuum line makes sense to me. Since your 'surging' is during low throttle(cruising low speed) there is actually vacuum in the intake. When boost starts coming online, negative pressure is gone and mode switches. A vacuum hose leak mascarades as coming on of boost so transmission disengages the torque lockup. Toggling between lock and unlock is felt as surging.

If you fix the vacuum leak, a steady pressure/vacuum signal is feedback so no toggling of the torque lock up.

Does this jibe?

 

Thanks for the explanation, this does make sense. I will work on this this weekend.

 

I've found information and possible options here; http://rostratransmission.com/index.html / http://www.valvebodypros.com/
http://www.reamman.com/default.aspx
Instructions here;
www.v70xc.com/resources/how-to/pdf/2002-V70-XC-Valve-Body
I Might get lucky and fix it for a few hundred, feels a lot better than the 6k quoted by Volvo here for a new transmission..

 

Fixed 2001 S60 T5, I replaced the AW 55-50 Linear Solenoids with Rostra Solenoids, just completed the Adaptive Learning process, it drives like a brand new one.. No clunking up or down, no gear flare, hold it flat and you've wheel spin. How fu_king good is that??
It took 2 weeks for the solenoids to arrive in Australia from US $270.00, about 4 or 5 hrs to install ( **** job ) also did the B4 servo and ATF flush ( iPD ).
Best part is, Volvo Dealership can go fu_k them selves, as they wanted 6k for a new transmission, no alternative…
Thanks Toni1963 for some direction.
Mark

 

Hi...
I'm happy you solved the same problem I'm having...
I'm planing to do this work myself. Do I need to drop the transmission??
Is there any videos on how to remove the valve body?
I have a 2003 S60 2.4T

Thank you in advance

 

G'day Mate,

Thanks, I'm so happy I finally got this issue sorted; I drove the car all day today in stop start traffic and not one slip, clunk, thump or flare. I feel like I've dodged a 6k bullet. It’s a pleasure to drive my S60 gain, working the way it should rather than the pig it’s been.

To do the job, see the link I've added, it’s excellent, I think I found it through Google. I followed these instructions to the point of removing the valve body cover and then with the valve body still in the car I replaced the solenoids, as instructions from Rostra. I also contacted Rostra direct and the guys there were a great help. Try their website for info and videos on how to install; www.rostratransmission.com . I have the early model "No letter Valve Body" so my new solenoids went in the same way as the old came out, with later model Valve Bodies just follow the instructions, different connector positions. I had to purchase the solenoids through eBay from the US around $270, as I couldn't find an agent here in Australia for Rostra Solenoids..
I did a **** load of research and reading from a number of forums, and based on the symptoms of MY car, being; drives perfectly while COLD, then when at normal temperature, gear flare or free rev, clucking into gear and from time to time going into limp mode (stuck in top gear) all the usual.. I've tried a number of different things in the past including a engine and transmission software update, did nothing, I did a ATF flush and that did nothing, I put in a bottle of additive, helped a bit, not so many gear flares going around corners at low speed but really didn’t fix anything.
So based on what I know from a bit of research plus the symptoms of my car, and considering the transmission doing what it’s suppose to do while cold, I decided to just change the solenoids and found Rostra.
To change the solenoid on the car, you don’t have to remove the transmission, you do have to raise the engine and drop the sub frame, I used a floor jack from underneath the engine, rather than a special engine lift (see instructions) also I removed the fan, the intake pipe to the intake manifold and used zip ties to hold everything out of the way as much as possible, to make more room to get to the solenoids from above. I also replaced the B4 Servo (ipd) and when all back together did a fluid flush (ipd flush kit). Follow the Adaptive Learning instructions from Rostra, all done...
Included in this project, I also replaced the timing belt and tensioner, new CV axles and seals, new struts, bearings, bushes, ball joints, tie rod ends, links ect, oil pan o-ring kit, all oil seals, (FCP) its like a new one again.
Hope this helps,
Good luck
Mark
www.v70xc.com/.../pdf/2002-V70-XC-Valve-Body-Replacement-Notes.pdf