98 T5 Turbo V70. located in Austin Texas.

Any advice on cost of repair would be helpful.

1. Tailgate won't open. seems to have broken latch mechanism.
2. Strange "wobble" noise coming from left front wheel when I take off and increase in speed. I was told that it was a wheel bearing or wheel hub assembly. I need verification on this from you guys.
3. what type of spark plugs/wires are best for this model?

 

1. The latch is pretty common to break. But you need to get the panel off and break the old latch assembly apart to get it open.
2.Sounds like a wheel bearing to me as well.
3.I would go OEM or Bosch Platinum for the plugs and OEM or bougicord I not sure about the spelling but they are OEM as well.

 

thanks for the answers tech. but that brings me to my next question:

the mechanic said it was the entire wheel hub assembly because the wheel bearing is inside the aseembly and it comes as one part. is this true?

 

The bearing comes as an assembly but not the entire spindle.
There is 4 screws that hold the bearing to the spindle.

 

thanks tech. I got it replaced last week. works like new.

 

Your welcome.

 

That's a bit extreme? Mine failed last week, all I had to do was to push the rear tailgate trim up by pressing in the middle until I could get fingers in behind it to prise it outwards, then reach in and pull the remote wire of the latch until it opened. There was no need to break the latch mechanism, nor will there be until I identify the problem. It may be the actuating rod, shown going down to the left in the photo, is sliding off the small bar which it strikes to open the lock. Replacing a worn bush may be a lot cheaper than an entire lock assembly...





[IMG]local://upfiles/13994/CE56089F4272480CAA76C401BD8CBA19.jpg[/IMG]

 

"That's a bit extreme? Mine failed last week, all I had to do was............................................... ...........until I identify the problem."

Be careful, not to bite the hand that may feed you ! I can tell you, By readingTech's responses, He knows what he is talking about. He takes Pride in hiswork and takes the time to pass on what he's knows to others. Your further explaination was good but you didn't have to start with "That's a bit extreme". He his16,617 replies, out of those, 99.8256 percent are correct. If, and I mean if, he doles out what you may consider an ill procedure, It is the way he would do it inhis shop: bash it off and replace it with a new one. Customer is happy, No time to explore possibilitiesand machine up a new bushing. Please, in the future be kind to our Guru.

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Sorry folks, no intention of offense or insult, and yes I'll definitely need his help. However I did enquire if this was extreme, hence the ? mark, I didn't rant or accuse! I may be new to this forum but I rebuild Classic 1960s Cars as a hobby - and I mean rebuild. I don't mean take parts off and bolt on new ones, I mean refurbish, grind, weld, replace bushings, contacts etc etc. A lot of parts are irreplaceable or as rare as hens teeth so I've a natural aversion to breaking anything apart, and being naturally miserly with money I won't break a part where gentle persuasion will suffice. I merely made the point that by prising off trim and pulling a lever my lock opened, and examination may lead me to believe it's the electrical side of things which is at fault. Consequently I may be able to advise other members who are in the same boat. Not something you can do by breaking the lock assembly to bits, is it?

 

Hey folks,
I'm new to the forum. I've had other swede cars (saab 900), and my volvo has been so reliable, I have mostly done maintenance and little else. I did a couple of ignition coils, and I imagine some of you have too!! So here is my issue: I am ready to take a sledgehammer to my tailgate because the latch is shot. Its been intermittant since I got the car 4 years ago. I have tried to release the lock manually from the inside (screwdriver!), but no dice. OK, I'm game to break the lock, but don't want to destroy anything that I don't need to. Can you suggest how to go at it????Thanks in advance for your expert advice.

 

If you have to break it apart first you have to remove the panel.
Then you need to break out the pieces pictured above in the post. You will have to look closely all the way down the bottom of the latch assembly. You will see a black tab looking thing that will release the latch and opne it. But you will need to install a new latch once you break the old one.

 

Thanks for your reply. Are we talking about breaking the electric actuator that does the locking and unlocking? The latch is buried under there. Also, I noticed from the pic in this thread that I am missing some of the plastic bits of this thing. Is this all sold as an assembly? The pieces that are missing are long gone as they broke before the cover came off, and I vacuumed them up along with some chunks of sound-deadening (?) that had fallen off the door![:-] Thanks again!

 

Yes it all comes as one piece.
The motor has to come off then everything else as well.
If you can't get it by Monday I have a gutted latch assembly at work I can take a pic of and show you about what it needs to look like.

 

Hey, that would be great. I'm ready to try anything!!

 

See what you can do but I will try to remember Monday to get the pic.

 

OK, so I gutted the latch assembly, and all that is left is the brass-colored stamped housing, and the latch itself. The trouble is, I can't get the movable piece of the latch to move! I can see down in there using a mirror, and I see 1/4 thick steel piece which lays parallel with the ground. This piece apperars to have some movement, but won't budge more than a fraction of an inch in any direction. If I pry it towards the rear of the car, the hatch pulls in tighter slightly. It doesn't move much or seem to do anything in any other direction. I can't see exactly how the movable piece will release. can you offer any guidance here?
Thanks.

 

I am so sorry I totally forgot to get the latch to take pictures (Sorry had a really bad week)
The one I have at work next to where the striker from the body would come up has a tab sticking up like in the same direction of the latch and it is just to the left when looking. I think you have to push it to the left.

 

Ok sorry so long but here is the pics.
The part I marked in red needs to be pushed to the right.

 

Thanks a ton for the pic. I have gutted the lock to the point you show here, but the spring and plastic arm its attached to is also gone. The tab that you so clearly indicate refuses to move, which is probably what was causing the problem in the first place. I have tried to pry it, but it ain't moving. I am considering trying to angle a sawzall to cut out the lowest part of the gold-colored casting as a last resort. This part is built extremely tough (resisting impact in crashes, etc.). It is good to know that I at least have been attacking the right part (the tab). Thanks again. I will let you know how it turns out.......

 

Yes please keep me posted. I know sometimes to get the tab to move I have to push and pull on the hatch assembly. But sometimes it just opens right up when I hit it.