Whats your opinion on this 2001 V70?
#1
Whats your opinion on this 2001 V70?
Hi all,
I am looking for your thoughts on this used 2001 V70 I just looked at.
It has 92,600 miles, 2 previous owners and hail damage on hood and roof.
The Bad:
The check engine light is on (seller claims its the ambient temp sensor).
The car has a loud clunking noise from front passenger side, when I bounced the car with the hood open the front shock was poping out of its mount, I put pressure on the mount by hand and bounced the car and the noise stopped.
The hail damage and fuel door is missing.
The good:
Car drives out nicely, accelerates strong and rides straight.
No rust
Interior is clean and no smells.
The dealer is asking 2,999 and will move a little on the price. Here is a link th the listing: http://www.all-carsinc.com/Express2....ime=1293482158
What do you think about the front strut - expensive repair?
What about the asking price - does it seem reasonable?
Thanks in advance,
Luke
I am looking for your thoughts on this used 2001 V70 I just looked at.
It has 92,600 miles, 2 previous owners and hail damage on hood and roof.
The Bad:
The check engine light is on (seller claims its the ambient temp sensor).
The car has a loud clunking noise from front passenger side, when I bounced the car with the hood open the front shock was poping out of its mount, I put pressure on the mount by hand and bounced the car and the noise stopped.
The hail damage and fuel door is missing.
The good:
Car drives out nicely, accelerates strong and rides straight.
No rust
Interior is clean and no smells.
The dealer is asking 2,999 and will move a little on the price. Here is a link th the listing: http://www.all-carsinc.com/Express2....ime=1293482158
What do you think about the front strut - expensive repair?
What about the asking price - does it seem reasonable?
Thanks in advance,
Luke
#2
2001 v70
Hello, Verify the code. It's no big deal to change a temp sensor from what I've read. Your strut job requires no spring compression, therefor simple. Replacing a fuel door is as complicated as replacing the hinge-which is probably what broke in the first place.
If it shifts OK after a long hot test drive then go for it. Get the price down as far as you can citing the bad transmissions. If you buy it, a transmission flush is the very first thing you have to do. If AWD then flush the bevel gear too. Some people will say to run away from a 2001. There was a poll where about half the respondants claimed to have had no problems with their '01s. Good luck, Kira
If it shifts OK after a long hot test drive then go for it. Get the price down as far as you can citing the bad transmissions. If you buy it, a transmission flush is the very first thing you have to do. If AWD then flush the bevel gear too. Some people will say to run away from a 2001. There was a poll where about half the respondants claimed to have had no problems with their '01s. Good luck, Kira
#4
I'm a newbie volvo owner and not much of a mechanic so take this for what it's worth, but after owning my 1st volvo for the past 8 months ('02 V70 purchased with 71K miles, now 81K miles for $9,500) I would prepare you to spend a fair amount of $ getting the car "right". The definition of a "fair amount of $" could be a wide range ($1K - $5K) and the definition of "right" depends on what you can tolerate. Of course the best way to remove doubt is to have a volvo mechanic look it over. Even then things seem to pop up afterward.
Everything is expensive, but I guess any car is. Today I had my throttle cleaned because it was idling unevenly ($162). They told me I need to replace the power steering pump in the near future ($760) and the upper engine mount ($190). The power steering pump is right there on the top left above the alternator, very easy to see. If there is any moisture on the ledges it means it's leaking (according to the volvo mechanic). If your car shows this also maybe you can use it to negotiate the price down. The mount is above the engine and has a black rubber bushing inside, mine has a small crack.
I know I have the timing belt looming in the near future and I feel like the probability that the transmission will go bad is relatively high based on comments I have read in this forum. I recently replaced my sway bar end links (IPD is a great source) for $60 each plus labor - not a hard job to do yourself if you don't have to compress the springs. That solved my front end "clunking" noise, but it sounds like you have a legitimate strut issue. Lights all over the car are a constant aggrivation - not expensive just irritating to constantly jiggle and/or replace.
Our cars are similar in age and mileage so I thought this info might be helpful.
On the good side, it's a sharp looking car (I looked at it on your link) and will be for some time to come. Volvo does a good job of keeping their body styles current even when they are 10 yrs old.
Good luck, I'm anxious to hear the outcome.
Everything is expensive, but I guess any car is. Today I had my throttle cleaned because it was idling unevenly ($162). They told me I need to replace the power steering pump in the near future ($760) and the upper engine mount ($190). The power steering pump is right there on the top left above the alternator, very easy to see. If there is any moisture on the ledges it means it's leaking (according to the volvo mechanic). If your car shows this also maybe you can use it to negotiate the price down. The mount is above the engine and has a black rubber bushing inside, mine has a small crack.
I know I have the timing belt looming in the near future and I feel like the probability that the transmission will go bad is relatively high based on comments I have read in this forum. I recently replaced my sway bar end links (IPD is a great source) for $60 each plus labor - not a hard job to do yourself if you don't have to compress the springs. That solved my front end "clunking" noise, but it sounds like you have a legitimate strut issue. Lights all over the car are a constant aggrivation - not expensive just irritating to constantly jiggle and/or replace.
Our cars are similar in age and mileage so I thought this info might be helpful.
On the good side, it's a sharp looking car (I looked at it on your link) and will be for some time to come. Volvo does a good job of keeping their body styles current even when they are 10 yrs old.
Good luck, I'm anxious to hear the outcome.
#5
one more thought, I like this guy's website. He has a lot of good information:
http://howardsvolvos.webs.com/notesbeforebuying.htm
http://howardsvolvos.webs.com/notesbeforebuying.htm
#6
#7
I think the car you had posted was in WI, so I assume that is where you are. Would you consider the Charlotte, NC area too far to travel for a wagon? The guy I bought my '02 V70 from is a hard core Volvo mechanic/body guy. He has numerous wagons for sale, probably one in your price range. He buys wrecked Volvos, usually with fender damage, never drive train damage, repairs them and sells them. Nice thing about a Southern car is no rust. He has a sweet white XC for sale that his wife was driving, not sure on the price but I think it was in the $9K range. Let me know if you are interested.
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