DIY procedure for oil change on a 2007 XC90 3.2L:

This is my first oil change on this car, so bear with me.

Tools:
1/4 inch ratchet (had it)
1/2 inch ratchet (Sears, $10 or shortest you have, less than 6 inches needed)
10mm socket (had it)
17mm socket (had it)
36mm socket (found it at Sears, largest they had in metric - $10)
10-15 gal oil drain pan (Autozone, $10)

Optional tools:
Ramps
Funnel
Lots of shop towels in my case (hopefully you can learn from my experience)

Supplies:
Volvo supplied oil filter with o-ring ($8)
Volvo supplied 17mm crush washer ($.50)
8 quarts of oil, your choice, I used Castrol 10w40 since I live in Texas and it is HOT

Procedure:
1. Use 36mm socket to remove the oil filter housing, located on passenger side of engine about an arms length down.

2. Use 10mm socket to remove 6 bolts that hold the black plastic skid plate. This was easy, took 2 minutes.

3. Use 17mm socket to loosen black drain bolt (yes, the one right there in front of you). NOTE: I used a 15 quart oil pan and positioned in 3 inches past the bolt, and I STILL missed the oil stream when it shot out about 18 inches. Beware, get the towels ready and move the pan as needed to avoid a mess. It wasn't that bad, just got my arm and little of my floor mat. I let the oil drain about 15 minutes and got about 7.1 quarts out.

4. Replace oil drain bolt with NEW crush washer. I just hand tightened it. Didn't leak.

5. Finish replacing the new oil filter and o-ring. Clean the threads, remove the filter and o-ring. Put new o-ring on and apply a finger layer of oil to it. Push oil filter on center piece. Reattach oil filter housing. I used a firm turn of the ratchet, but didn't want to tweak the plastic housing too much. No leaks after 50 miles. The housing says 25 foot of torque on mine, but I don't know how you could get a torque wrench on it.

6. Add oil. I added 6 quarts first. Pulled dipstick and could barely see any oil on it. I then added another quart and saw the oil just below the LOW mark. Waited 10 minutes to let oil drain (cleaned stuff up). Started car and let run 5 minutes (still cleaning). Turned off and let sit for 15 minutes (book says to do this). Same oil reading, so I added another 1/2 quart for a total of 7.5 and the stick is right in the middle.

7. Enjoy driving!!!

Hope this helps someone.

 

Now, how do you dispose of the used oil?

 

Thank you for the post. Besure to copy and paste this into the Members Writeup thread in the General Volvo section of the forum.

Thanks

 

Most autoparts stores (AutoZone, Advance, Kragen...) offer free recycling. Just bring in your container of used oil and ask them where their oil bin is at. Then you just walk over to it and pour the oil in the bin. Couldn't be easier. Works for transmission fluid (probably brake fluid too, but not positive).

 

Just to let you know you forgot a few important steps. 1 you must remove oil filter first this is so all of the oil drains from the sump which is why you only got about 7 qts out. then drain oil and install crush ring then reinsatll filter with new oring then it should take about 8.5 qts. And volvo recc. 0-w30 wt. for these new 3.2 engines. then reset the SRI.

 

The book says the car only takes 7.7 quarts of oil. When I removed the filter, there wasn't any oil in the filter or in the filter housing. Where is the sump and what woud the vertically installed oil filter have to do with it containing oil? Just a question.

As for oil disposal, yes, I poured the old oil in the used oil bottles and returned to Autozone for recycling. No fee. Bought new materials while there so I am set for the next oil change.

I didn't reset the interval since this was an "in between" oil change for me. I still do the 7.5k oil changes as noted by Volvo, I just choose to do a 3.2k change in between. I may switch to synthetic and stretch it to 7.5k. What does the forum think?

Thanks,

 

Copyright ©2006 Volvo Cars of North America, LLC. All rights reserved. Page 1 of 1

NO: 22-06

DATE: 8-3-2006

MODEL: XC90 3.2L (engine code 98)

M. YEAR: 2007

SUBJECT: New (3.2L Inline 6 Cylinder) Oil Filter Housing Drain during Service

REFERENCE: VIDA

When changing the Engine Oil and Filter on the New 3.2L Inline 6 cylinder engine, it is

important to remember to remove the oil filter first, before draining the sump. This will allow

the dirty oil that is being held in the oil filter housing to drain back into the sump and in turn be

removed when the sump is drained.

The oil filter housing on the new 3.2L engine is equipped with a spring loaded valve that is

held closed by the filter element. This maintains an oil level in the filter housing during normal

operation of the engine. This ensures faster rise to operating oil pressure at engine start.

VOLVO

Volvo Cars of North America, LLC

Technical Service

Please circulate, read and initial: _____Svc Mgr _____ Parts Mgr _____Shop Foreman

_____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ TECHS

_____ Warranty Administrator _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ S. Advisors

Tech-

“Fixed Right – First Time�

Volvo Technicians, Service and Parts Managers

Drain Valve

 

Well there you go. Thanks for the info. Where did you find that? Is there other DIY info there on other maintenance items?

Thanks again.

 

I work at a dealer and have access to all of this info. So I doubt you would be able to find info like this for DIYers. That why it is great to belong to such a great forum with all kinds of people and great knowledge.

 

Thanks. I updated the original post above with this new information. Should be good now. Enjoy!

 

Great write-up with lots of explanation, thanks Claggie.

Can you or someone else point me to a similar write-up so I can perform anoilchange on my '05 with the Yamaha 4.4L?I'm actually interested in performing the 7,500 mile interval dealer suggested maintenance. The dealergets over $300for it if I recall. Having lost my job earlier this fall I'd rather do some of the routine stuff myself.

I'm specifically interested in information on how to perform my own:

[ul][*]Oil change with filter replacement[*]Chassis lube (if any needed)[*]Cabin air filter exchange (not the charcoal activated one)[*]Fuel filter (is it worth it at 53K miles? It may be the original)[*]Air Filter exchange[/ul]
I'm not adverse to buying a shop manual if someone can point me in that direction (prefering a hardcopy version over a CD). Any suggestions on where to buy the parts or special tools needs would also be appreciated, as well as pointers on the above or anything else that may be warranted at 53K miles.

Thanks in advance,

Les

 

Thanks,

This was an excellent guide. I used it to change the oil on our new 08 XC90 3.2 L AWD. Knowing the bolt sizes in advance was great plus the tip of removing the oil filter first. This is probably the easiest oil filter replacement I've ever done. The only issue I had is that my oil drain pan was way too small -- got to get the supersized one for this car.

The only correction I have in your instructions is that the oil filter housing cap is torqued down to 25 Newton Meters rather than 25 foot pounds. I was able to use a torque wrench by using two long 3/8 in. extensions. The cap turns quite a bit before the torque comes up to spec, so you may take the risk that the cap may be loose if you don't use the torque wrench.

 

Mine XC90 is a V8, after removed the oil filter housing and filter I used a flashlight look up the hole where the filter was. I noticed there is a bolt/screw sticking out from otherwise smooth ceiling. When I look at the oil filter I just removed, there is a dent apparently caused by that bolt/screw. There is no way the new filter will go all the way in to against the top ceiling without have a small gap because of the bolt/screw. Is this normal?

 

Moderator / Admins, please move this response and the previous post to my thread on oil change for the V-8 XC90 here:

https://volvoforums.com/m_118140/tm.htm

Hello stevejanosik, welcome to the forum.

I did my first oil change on the V-8 a short time ago and did not have anything like you just mentioned. Not that I recall, anyway. But there was no interference with the filter or the cartridge housing going back into place either.

Can you take a photo of this bolt/screw that you mention and post it to the above thread? Or have you resolved the issue somehow? I see your post is 3 days old.

Note the answers sometimes are slow(er) in coming on the XC90 because they are newer and fewer than for the 850 for example and not everyone that posts here is a Volvo tech. Hopefully you're all done, but let us know either way.

 

Hello bluemagicbus,

I have moved the above two posts to your V8 oil change thread:

https://volvoforums.com/m_118140/mpa.../tm.htm#131405

Notified the original posters. Please let me know if this was correct, otherwise I will go back and fix them again.

Thanks for letting us know.

Good day to you,


JPN

 

Here is the photo finally. I can push the Oil Filter Insert all the way until hit this thingy. The photo was taken from the floor aiming the camera up.

 

Is it the same step for 2006 xc90 model>

 

I changed the oil on my V8 XC90 and found it very easy except that I could not read the oil on the dip stick after adding 7 quarts of Castrol Syntec 10W-30. From my 8th quart, I poured a little more in and thought I was seeing the oil at the min marking. Out of frustration, I kept adding a little more and checking the dipstick. Before I knew it, I had poured the entire 8th quart in. In retrospect, I should have stopped at 7 quarts and drove the car waiting for a low oil indication. Should I bother letting a half quart out via the filter? I can't read the dip stick since the oil is so clean.