Hello,

Just wanted to post a solution thread.

There are several reports on the web of an electrical problem associated with the XC90 drivers door module. The symptoms are:

1) Dome light illuminates with left turn signal
2) Driver Door Open message displays with left turn signal while driving
3) Driver door power lock and power window inoperative

On my 2006 XC90 I traced the problem to a broken wire that leads to the driver door connector. The wire was broken at the terminal on the body side of the connector.

In hindsight I never had to open the door trim. All of the repair was in the little space behind the driver side kick panel. Before and after photos are attached. Hope they help someone.

 

Thank you for posting this fix. I have been driving around with this same problem for a few weeks now and has become irritating, especially at night and on days I want to open the window.

I want to try and tackle this one, but am not sure where to locate the "driver door connector". Is it behind the door panel?

Any guidance on where to find the likely problem wire would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

The connector is behind the driver kick panel, which is the little trim panel next to the driver's left foot (assuming U.S. car with left hand steering wheel).

 

I found the loose wire in the driver door's jamb - coming from what must be the back side of that trim panel. The black rubber covering was already off so the wiring was exposed. I noticed that, in my case, a thick yellow wire was no longer attached.

With a screwdriver I was able to disconnect the connector from the door and put the wire back in. Took a few secs and the problem is fixed (windows open and dash board no longer lights up every time I put on the left turn signal).

Thanks for posting the original - and replying - without it I wouldn't have known where to begin.

 

Soo happy to find this thread!!! i have removed the kick panel but don't see that connector in there, only wires that run up behind the dash, into the driver door, and down the floor panel heading to the back (all which are tapped up and look in good shape).. wonder if the problem is somewhere in the door , or am i missing something. Would really love to stop the light show in my car every time i want to turn left!... any help would be appreciated.

 

Open the door and look between the door and the A pilar. There is a rubber casing around a wire loom. the black wire is the bottom most inside wire. I had this problem and erroneously spent $150 on a new actuator.

The reference to the kick panel is to make the job easier. Take the kick panel piece with the hood lock off by removing one bolt and wiggling. then you can feed the wire loom to the door and give yourself a few inches of wire to work with.

As I mentioned in the swedespeed post I was a bit of a butcher getting the old piece out of the connector. I was able to strip a little plastic off the wire and crimp on a new connector that went into the black connector. I gave it a good push, and hope it holds.

here is the swedespeed link. with some more symptoms I had. "Drivers Door Open" when left turn signal is on

 

Hello,
First off I'll like to say thanks for posting all that info about the broken wire in the driver door harness. That's exactly what happened to me!
I found the broken wire, and now I'm ready to replace it, one problem... I can't seem to get the connector out of where the wire broke, my needle nose Pilars won't fit!
Does anyone have any ideas?

 

I destroyed the piece in the connector. If you search bmw autodim mirror you will find posts to change the mirror to one with the garage door opener. Some have excellent pictures. I say this because I just did it on my 128, and the wire loom kit I bought had the plastic connectors.

While it looks like one piece, it isn't. the metal pins slip into a waffle like piece of plastic. where the thick part of the pin ends and the wire starts is a groove in the waffle. then the outer piece slides across, locking the pin in.

I'm not sure how Volvo does it. but it may be similar. hope my explanation helps, but a picture is worth a thousand words.

Here is a link to the loom. Take a look at how the parts fit together. The little black waffle slides into the white piece. The gray waffle slides into the black piece. look at the ends of the wire, and see how the connector ends. Volvo probably does something very similar. Just have to figure out how to get the two pieces apart. With BMW they used two colors. You gently pry the outside piece outward, then slide the inside piece out.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...s/61120434330/

 

I am so relieved to find a thread with my EXACT problem! However, I do not have any of the skills to fix it myself. I am dropping my car at the dealership tomorrow and I am trying to brace myself for what they might charge me. Any ideas???

 

Thanks for sharing. You saved me a lot of time. In my case I found a broken black wire at the connector from the car to the door.

 

Sincerely, Thank you! Fixed it!

 

Gonna try to fix this tomorrow. Is the kick panel the part with 2 screws and night light in the middle? I know it's been a while since this was posted. Thanks again!

 

The kick panel is the piece of interior trim next to our left foot (left hand drive car). It is the piece of carpet with the hood release. If you take that panel off you have access to the thick loom of wires. You can gently push the wires towards the door. That will give you the ability to work on the connector in the open (sort of open), instead of in the crevice or area between the door and the A pillar.

When you open the door and look at the wire loom and the hinges holding the door you will see what I mean by crevice. slide the drivers seat all the way back, get a small stool to sit on, and pull the wire to you a bit and you will then take apart the connector, look at the picture I posted of the BMW connector, figure out how to take the connector apart, pull out the small connector that isn't connected to the black wire, open up the end, strip a little wire and crimp the connector back on to the wire. Insert the connector into the connector, and assemble the connector. Yes I used connector to describe two different parts. Sorry.

 

Couldn’t get connector out. Used small hemostat to free space and then just soldered wire in hole. The reinforce exposed wire with addition solder. Seems to be holding up so far.

 

So... Not super proud of this but also very proud of this. I don't have a soldering gun, so I just shoved the butt end of a sewing needle under the insulation of the loose wire, then stabbed the needle into the other end because I also couldn't get the little clip out with my plyers. Posting so my people who are less electrically inclined like me have a Jerry rig option.
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Thanks for all the info as I had the same issue as described. I went to Volvo who gave me a pin for free . I was able to attach the black wire back to its original state prior to the break. What I did notice others wires had also began to fray and were exposed. So far all good it all works.. Great thread

I have pic hopefully that will also help others to remove the pin

Placement of the screw driver .. Also pulled others wires using same techniques to repair frayed wires..

Used a eye glass screwdriver from dollar store .. location of where to put the screwdriver to release the tan

Broken Ground wire

Kick plate by hood release .Made it so much easier to work on ..

Took this as initially I could not find the origin of the issue..

 

That was an excellent piece on the left turn signal & door problem. I decided to Google the problem then the Forum pice came up. I tutor your advice and did not remove the door panel, only the side kick plated where the front hood handle is with the one bolt holding panel in place. The wire when exposed was about 3/" in length. Not much I could do without tearing the whole boot and wire conduit out. So what I did was to spot solder a piece of same gauge stranded wire. Then I used some fast setting flexible caulk to insulate it. Too small and not possible to tape a single wire. After that I did electrical tape all wires to keep them for separating in the door movement. It worked well. Thanks again for the great help. Please keep it up. I attached some photos and a short video of location.

 

This might help: