ses_volvo,
I have to do something about my p0089 check engine code, I must resolve it or I wont pass emissions inspection...
Anyway, I took it to Tunex here in Utah. they charged me $75 to run diagnostics..
Its the fuel pump regulator (the PEM)... they are positive.
I wish i could get the previously mentioned Ford cross reference links to open. I need to buy one
Kind regards.
Mick

 

Ahh, I didn't think about passing emissions. That's not a thing here in MI.

Do you have access to your PEM?
I picked up a used PEM on ebay making sure to match my part numbers. It was around $150 and it fixed my hesitation/stalling issue. Although as I said I still get the P0089 code from time to time.

After I delete the code with an OBD scanner it usually is gone for a few days. Delete the code, get the emissions test, cross fingers? Not sure if that would work, lol.

 

Thanks for share!

 

Hi, been following this thread. My volvo used to run fine. Started blowing the pump fuse. Then started hesitating when trying to overtake another car. Found that the fuel pressure was falling. Changed the pump. Cleaned the tank. New filter. New pressure regulator. New PEM. Now it starts. Runs for a while. The stalls. Wait a minute. Starts up again no problem. Repeats. Took out the seats. I can hear the pump for a whole. Then I hear humming like it's not getting any gas. The car shuts down. Can it be I need a new pump? Again? Is there like a fuel pump relay that may be giving trouble? I'm about to give up. Please help with some new ideas.

 

Like many, chasing these phantom electric fuel issues can be frustrating to say the least. I have had nightmares over current issues, so here is my story. 05 XC90 2.5 died and checking the shrader valve on rail, no gas, so it was obvious why it would not start. Got tow, started to research all the things that cause car to go dead, started with least expensive part, the fuses and relay, no problem, then fuel pressure regulator, still would not start, checked connections, PEM was corroded, replaced, still not starting, pulled out CEM to inspect, and sure enough, water corrosion in several spots inside unit. Cleaned with 99% alcohol and cleaned up nice, blew out residual and re-installed, still won't start. So I didn't see any burnt components, so my question is can a CEM prevent fuel pressure to rail. I cleaned out blocked sunroof tubes and cleaned out dirt blocking drains in windshield wiper pan where it was obvious the water was leaking into cabin from. Most have this same problem, so clean out regular basis to prevent the nightmare I am facing along with thousands of others. So given my battery is low on voltage, drops to below 10v, can this cause no fuel pressure? Only code was p0072 which seemed unrelated. Definitely no fuel pressure. Any others figure this one out yet? About to replace CEM at this point.

Thanks,

 

Update,

OK, pulled out CEM, sure enough, water damage corrosion, so cleaned it with electronic spray and plastic tooth brush to get under connectors and relays. Blew out with air pressure, dried it with heat gun, re-installed and engine started and runs fine when cold, even under full acceleration, but in ten minutes consistently, it will loose fuel pressure under full power, drops to under 10 PSI also consistently as I have diagnostics hooked up to see fuel pressure drop. So my question is why would warmed up engine fail under full acceleration, but when cold, runs perfect? So does anyone have any ideas, could PEM cause this kind of problem. Again, problem is consistent, not variable, as long as I don't ask for full power, it runs perfect. Having replaced everything else, I had replaced PEM with a used one, so I am wondering if this new problem is related to PEM, the CEM damage was causing no start issue, guages jumping around, engine would die, etc. So none of these problems exist any longer, just the new issue. Original PEM was corroded, but I have a feeling it was not the related to my original engine dying issues. Searched high and low and could not find symtoms of bad PEM other than intermittent hesitation or stalling out. These Volvo's are a nightmare to work on, my BMW is so much easier as problems are always black and white, not grey like I see with Volvo.

 

So my 2006 Xc90 starts right up, drives perfectly for after I begin using it in the mornings for about ten -15 minutes and then stutters, looses power and shuts down. I turn off the key, turn it back on and it will start right up. Drive for another few miles or so, stutter and shut down. It will get progressively worse the more I do this. I have already changed almost every part dealing with fuel/ fuel pump/ PEM/ fuel pressure/ air/ throttle body/ etc. I'm thinking maybe the fuel tank is dirty and blocking the pump screen. I'm hoping it's nothing electrical. Been reading about the CEM, but my display is fine and all my gauges work perfectly. Please give me some more ideas. I have no Volvo dealer anywhere close to where I live so I'm on my own. don't want to give up now...Thanks

 

I feel your pain, been through it and am still going through it. Replaced everything as well, no change, then learned about CEM, and the easiest way to eliminate this as problem is to pull it out and take off plastic covers and look at the top electronic board which is not protected with plasticoat like the bottom and vertical boards are, simply crazy, but it is easy to see the corrosion, it is white residual under connector and in my case, under several of the relays on board. This caused most of my problems described, and if your sunroof drain tubes are clogged, like all are eventually, water will build up in your cowl where wipers are located. There are two drains one on each side, and these get clogged, and rain from windshield collect and sooner or later get deep enough to penetrate the CEM as well as floor of interior. Did you replace PEM with new one, or used, this too is subject to plug connector corrosion issued because of poor design.

Good luck,

 

So the CEM can actually affect the pump? I was wondering if there isn't a relay in there that overheats and clicks out and shuts off the pump. Cause once I turn off the switch and put it back on, it works again. And Yes, I did change the PEM with a used one even though the original one didn't have any signs of corrosion as they had already moved it to under the back seat. It does the same thing with the other one.
I'll look more into the CEM removal video I saw on YouTube and have a go at it.

 

There is a fuel relay for fuel pump, but they usually don't cause problems like yours, usually no fuel pump at all, but easy to check, there are two relays which are the same, 425 marked as I recall, so just swap them, R1 and R2, easy and cheap way to eliminate it as I did. CEM can cause all sorts of crazy problems, after all, everything goes in and out of that module, and with Volvo's, that can be a nightmare.

As a side note, I have steel tank, and I hear many have issues with rusting and clogging fuel pump up under full power situations like I am still experiencing. I am trying old trick, put big magnet under fuel pump area of fuel tank as I did see some flakes when I changed fuel pump, so who knows, worth a try, it worked on an old wreck I drove as a kid. lol Problem did seem to get worse as fuel level dropped below half, so will let you know.

Good luck,

 

I'll check those relays. I was thinking of dropping the fuel tank and cleaning it. It might be dirty. I'm thinking maybe the dirt gets too much after a while and that blocks the pump causing it to shut down. When I turn off the switch, it lets the dirt fall away allowing it to start again.
I'll try that and let you know how it goes. I think I have a plastic tank, but dirty gas is always around.

 

So I promised to send an update. I thought about dropping the tank. My wife reminded me that that is what the last mechanic did and cleaned it. So instead, I took out the fuel pump again. This time, I wanted to thoroughly inspect the filter on the pump itself. You have to take out the pump, and take them out of the canister that they sit in. Was so happy I did. It was so dirty (see Pic). This is what I have deduced from everything.
1. The old pump was good too. Probably had the same dirty filter.
2. the Tank was very dirty.
3. The first mechanic installed the new pump inside a dirty tank.
4. the second mechanic Cleaned the tank and not the pump or the outside filter.
5. by cleaning the new pump and filter, and reinstalling it into the new clean tank, the car is running like new!!!

I've been driving it around and have already put on about 50 miles on it. I've been pushing it hard, put it in everyday driving situations, at stop lights, etc...and it's running so smoothly...

So before you go and buy a new pump, check the filter on the bottom of it. It could save you a lot.

 

Wow, thanks, no doubt, I went through this originally when I changed fuel pump twice, and tried to clean out, but I wonder, how does so much dirt get into tank? Could you make out what kind of dirt this was, is it like sand, flakes or scale of some kind, any metal particles by chance, just curious what could clog filter, and then when you shut down engine, particles are heavy enough to drop away as it appears. Sure is strange to see that much dirt clogging filter, so I am trying to figure out how big these particles are, can't tell from picture.

Thanks a million, hate to have to pull pump a third time, so wonder if these particles can be sucked out of tank if they seem heavy enough to settle to bottom of tank.

 

The dirt was a little oily. And stuck to the filter screen. Note that the screen can come off. I hit it until it came off. And found dirt on the inside. So I soaked it in hot water and detergent... After I put it back on... Drives like new.

 

Thanks, glad to hear you solved your issues, will pull pump again, and hopefully it is visible dirt like yours was. Strange that it was oily given gas always dissolves oil? Strange as it sounds, I put super magnet under filter location on bottom of tank attached to tank strap and it has been running fine, so I wonder if my dirt is from gas station where tanks rust and flake and then we pump into out vehicles. I had this issue years ago with another vehicle, seems to be more common than thought after researching gas station tank dirt issue. I wonder why yours was running fine after stopping engine, just like mine does, which would sound like dirt is being sucked up to filter, then falls back down to bottom of tank until it collects again on filter from sloshing about in tank.

 

UPDATE:

My XC90 has been running great, thank God after all the issues and expense, but the last thing I did was put a heavy duty magnet stuck under gas tank stuck onto hanger strap which is steel, and directly under fuel pump which I did instead of pulling tank to clean or replacing like many suggested. No more problems of the screen getting clogged. Seems to be an issue with getting bad gas from some stations which bypass filter on pumps regularly to save money, so rust particles are getting into your tank, get sucked up to filter, you stop engine, they fall back down, and this is why vehicle will run fine for about ten minutes or ten miles. Mine would die consistently every ten miles, shut it off, ran fine for another ten miles like clockwork. No problems since, so be careful where you get fuel, stay with name brand suppliers.

 

2003 xc90. Is there another location other than wheel well and rear passenger?

 

any other places it might be? I have the extra row if that changes anything

 

If it is not in plain site in front of passenger side RHS rear wheel, then it has to be relocated under rear seat, as in third row seats just behind fuel pump is where mine was relocated.

 

Thanks! I'll take those out tomorrow and check