Hello everyone, I am having an issue with low oil pressure . I bought all new seals and gasket's for the pan. Well today I had time and dropped the pan figuring the seals were all dry and cracked they weren't. I found the tube inside the oil pan going to the oil cooler cracked.


I have attached a photo it looks like its brass tubing can this be replaced or repaired has anyone had this happen .Would I be in for buying a new oil pan ? Would this be why I am having the issue with low oil pressure or should I be looking some where else?

 

Many people have posted about the O-rings of the pick-up tube being old, cracked and leaking air in; contributing to low oil pressure.

I do not know about the oil cooler. Alas, I've never seen but the part visible outside the engine. I really have no idea how they work or where the pipes lay etc.

Your cracked pipe lets the oil leak but still within the pan resulting in no external leak, no?

 

so georgeandkira , you don't think that the cracked brass tubing inside is the reason for low oil pressure at idle? I have the o-rings and gaskets for the pan to replace them. I just don't want to put the pan up there to find out that the tube is the problem for the loss of pressure.

 

No, I'm saying I wish I knew how the cooler worked. I have never seen one so I don't even know how it's pipes are routed.

It may be a gaping leak (in terms of pressure) and if it leaks directly back into the pan the drop in oil pressure would be the only symptom.

Does it appear to your eye that the cracked brass pipe is indeed part of the cooler and could "short circuit" the oil's flow?
Does it appear to your eye that the cracked pipe is part of the cooler?

From the outside I can only see the 2 screws which appear to hold the cooler in place. If that's all there is to removing it, I'd get a new cooler, install it, replace the pick-up O-rings and reinstall the pan.

I wish I absolutely knew the answer but I do not. If there's no external leaking of oil AND if that brass pipe is the only cracked thing AND if that brass pipe was part of the cooler AND if it was my car I'd conclude it was a fortunate leak, get a new cooler and reassemble. Yes, I'd take the chance at that point.

I wish I could give you a concrete solution.

How did you conclude you have low oil pressure?

 

Hello georgeandkira,, I had a part's motor and was able to use the oil pan cleaned it up and installed it this morning. It's up and purring again I guess that tubing was the issue, now I have to let it cool down. I purchased a timing belt kit the same time I bought the o-ring kit. Now to do timing belt and water pump and I'll be good for another 60 mile's..

 

Just finished the timing belt and water pump install every thing is good to go. Car is running the best it has in a long time! Now the only thing left to do is bring it to dealership get a inspection sticker and have them clear the seat belt warning light. My battery went dead and that triggered the warning light . I don't like the idea that when the battery dies it triggers the light and they are the only one that can clear it. It take 2 minutes and they charge you $100 to do it oh well gotta get her done..

 

warning light as in a a check engine light? Where are you going to pay $100 to have your codes read/cleared? Two suggestions 1) drive over to Autozone and "rent" an OBD2 code reader (most will do this for free on the expectation that you will buy parts) or 2) check your mailbox for a Harbor Freight catalog and score a Cen-tech OBD2 code reader of your own for $28.

 

I have a code reader but it won't clear the code so I have to go to dealer to have it cleared. It's not the check engine light it's the srs warning light ,if the battery dies the light comes on for some reason and I just scheduled the car and they want $ 150. to clear it what a rip off..

 

If you ascend the "Ladder of Features" you'll find code readers which will reset SRS lights.
Do deal locally so you can return/exchange it in the event the manufacturer somehow failed to include the capacity to clear Volvo SRS codes.

I lucked out and found a BSR-PPC reader which clears the SRS code.

ps If you have a close-up picture of the oil cooler's plumbing, I'd love to see it. thx

 

OBD2 codes are separated into classes and SRS falls into the "chassis" codes that the more expensive readers can view/clear. Most readers do the power train P codes. I've been able to view/reset an SRS code borrowing from Autozone. I may need to upgrade as well since my VW CC has an electronic parking brake which needs to be deactivated/reset to a service mode when replacing the rear pads. That's something else to look for when shopping for a device.

 

The plumbing for the cooler goes like this, there is a block ( the cooler) that attaches to the oil pan out side on the rear of the pan held on by 4 screws and it mounts flush to the oil pan only o-rings keep it from leaking oil. Now looking inside the pan the short tube the one that cracked goes to the first hole with the larger o-ring where it mounts to the block I think it goes to the oil pump in the block and the second tube the longer one goes into the filter housing where the second smaller o-ring for the block is here are some photos. By the way I was able to get in at the dealership a little while ago and they reset the car for me . Well I got home and found one of my tail lights were out so took out the bulb to find just a bad connection , put it all back together and guess what the srs lights back on . I have to go back and have them figure out why must be a bad sensor or connection some where.